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Post by SMALL CC TEK on Feb 9, 2019 1:50:11 GMT -5
That clone have a adjustable needle ? 24 ,28mm might be in the near future and some jets !
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Post by oldgeek on Feb 9, 2019 4:51:32 GMT -5
Might try a thinner jet needle to richen up that part throttle,I'd rather have a rich stutter there than a knock.. Does sound like a fuel flow issue at WFO,if fuel flow and tank/carb venting are good,gotta try a bigger sized inlet valve..  PS,Love that added clutch shoe area on the new clutch!  IIRC the vent elbows on the carb are very small ID, that could be an issue. I am also gonna try adjusting the float to allow a higher fuel level in the bowl. That clone have a adjustable needle ? 24 ,28mm might be in the near future and some jets ! The needle is adjustable, and I got plenty of different needles to play with. If my setup database for this build is correct, currently there should be a W11 needle in the carb with the clip in the 3rd position. My notes say I changed from a W10 on the 2nd notch to the W11 on the 3rd notch, because it was rich just as it got on the needle. So it sounds like the W10 may be going back in the carb. Currently using a 30 slide, 46 PJ and a 112 MJ. |
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Post by oldgeek on Feb 12, 2019 19:14:17 GMT -5
Spent quite a bit of time working on this scoot today. First up, I pulled the carb and completely disassembled it. I found the float valve to be only 1.5mm in diameter which is pretty small IMO. I enlarged it to 2mm which does not sound like much but it fixed the "run out of gas issue at WOT" Big thanks to gsx600racer for the idea. I also drilled out the vent elbows to about 1.5mm, originally they were about 1mm. After cleaning, assembling and installing the carb, the rest of the day was spent on tuning runs. After lots of changes I settled on the following for now. I still dont have the wheel lifting torque or the top speed I originally had, but I think the clutch and or clutch bell is at least part of the problem.  The scoot is back on the lift. I have loosened the adjustment on the clutch springs, hoping to get it to bite sooner and harder. I have also put slightly lighter sliders in the variator trying to get the RPM's up a bit. I will have to look back in this thread to see what RPM's 190mech said the pipe should be looking for. I also think the stock Kymco dual angle TD is part of the problem, I need to get a straight groove TD for this scoot. I have one for the motor in my blue ZX but I am reluctant to move it to this scoot because I like its current setup too much to screw with it. I only have 30 miles on this scoot since I put it back together with the lower compression head. I know there is more Powa in this thing and I am gonna find it. |
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Post by repherence2 on Feb 12, 2019 20:31:32 GMT -5
Yes, might be a good idea to ditch the dual angle torque drive. I think the dual angles make tuning a little difficult.
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Post by Lucass2T on Feb 13, 2019 1:57:42 GMT -5
Good job OG! Especially the float needle issue thats solved. Keep it up.
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Post by oldgeek on Feb 13, 2019 23:00:26 GMT -5
Started the day doing lots of tuning runs. I got aggravated with it so I switched to venting the CVT cover some more as I had planned to. I still need to cut some holes near the front of the cover to get the air moving through the CVT.  After I finished cutting the area in front of the clutch I did lots more tuning runs. Then the clamp holding the silencer broke so I stole one from another pipe to fix it, and did more tuning runs. I think I have a decent tune for now. Launch, and mid pull are real good, but the top end is still a little slow at 58 mph. I think timing issues are holding me back at this point, but I dont have a way to change timing as of yet. Possibly a programmable CDI is in my future. I am looking at a programmable CDI pitobread provided a link to, from Aliexpress, and may go that route. |
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Post by 190mech on Feb 14, 2019 6:55:36 GMT -5
Have you checked your spark curve yet?A flat line 15 degrees will give decent performance... |
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Post by oldgeek on Feb 14, 2019 7:44:37 GMT -5
Have you checked your spark curve yet?A flat line 15 degrees will give decent performance... No timing light. Definitely gonna get one soon though. What does the average stockish curve look like? |
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Post by 190mech on Feb 14, 2019 10:22:13 GMT -5
Brent did graphs on some iggy boxes,couldnt find where they were posted though...
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Post by oldgeek on Feb 17, 2019 21:06:02 GMT -5
I am sick with bronchitis but went over to the warehouse this afternoon. I figured I would feel better doing something rather than sitting around the house sick. While visiting with 190mech on Friday, I asked him to modify my Malossi OR pulley assembly on his lathe. The Malossi OR pulley I have is meant for a minarelli CVT. But after some measurements the other day I determined it should work on my Kymco SC10 motor, after a few minor modifications to it and to the Kymco cases. 190mech turned the OR's outer diameter down from 128mm to 124.5mm and he also turned the top of the weld on the rear of the pulley down by about 1.5mm The weld I am talking about is under the red sandpaper doughnut in the picture.  Turning the outer diameter of the pulley down allowed it to fit inside of the Kymco case. Turning the weld down helped provide clearance between the weld area on the back of the pulley and the flange that holds the seal in the cases for the primary shaft. I put the OR pulley on the primary shaft and spun it by hand. The sandpaper on the back of the pulley removed about 1.5mm of the seal flange as I turned it. I had to replace the sandpaper several times, but it got the job done rather easily. Just started cutting the seal flange down:  Finished cutting the seal flange:  I also had to do some very minor clearancing of the cases with a sanding drum as I did not have 190mech remove quite enough from the diameter of the pulley. After that it fit like a glove. I should mention that a small 2.5mm spacer comes with the OR pulley, I THINK it was meant to go between the OR and the clutch bell when used on a minarelli. However I moved the 2.5mm spacer from between the clutch bell and the pulley, to in between the primary shaft and the OR pulley. So between machining the weld down, trimming the seal flange down and using the 2.5mm spacer behind the pulley, the OR needed around 5.5mm of clearance to be made between it and the cases in order for it to not contact the seal flange when installed. Next up was belt options. I tried several different belt sizes I had checking for best looking fit, hoping to take advantage of more of the rear pulley. The best fit seems to be a used Yamaha Zuma belt I had on the shelf. I put everything together bundled up, put a medical mask on (it was 52° outside at the time) and did some short test runs around Scootopia. The wheel lifting launch is gone ATM, but the straight groove Malossi TD is a huge improvement over the stock dual angle TD. RPM's came up a bit and I saw over 10k briefly so that is a good sign because the pipe and durations should be happier in that range. Mid pull was very strong. No WOT runs yet, not gonna kill myself out in the cold and being sick, but everything looks promising so far. Plenty of CVT tuning to be done, but I think it will work out real good, time will tell. If you are wondering why I did this mod, it is because I needed a straight groove TD and there is no money in the scoot budget to buy a $100 pulley half. The minarelli Malossi OR pulley was just sitting on the shelf, unlikely to be used on a Mina again, so I decided to make good use of it.  |
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Post by ryan_ott on Feb 17, 2019 21:13:00 GMT -5
Always thinking outside the box. Nice work!
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Post by pitobread on Feb 17, 2019 22:25:31 GMT -5
Man I love how you MacGuyver everything. This is one of my favorite threads just because of that.
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Post by oldgeek on Feb 17, 2019 22:33:47 GMT -5
Man I love how you MacGuyver everything. This is one of my favorite threads just because of that. Thanks, I love this stuff! Probably going to take the plunge and order one of the iggys we chatted about when the $$ season starts rolling around here. We love tourists when they come here to visit, we love them even more when they go back home!  |
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Post by oldgeek on Feb 18, 2019 12:27:58 GMT -5
Next up are some more CVT cooling mods. Since the E start will not turn this motor over, nor any other build likely to be on this set of cases I am considering cutting the entire starter portion of the case off, at the general area on the right side of the blue tape. As far as I can tell there is nothing critical or structural in the area of the starter. It would certainly allow air to flow through the CVT better.  Also planning to remove the curved pieces from the CVT cover that are in front of the clutch area.  |
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Post by gsx600racer on Feb 18, 2019 12:54:41 GMT -5
Next up are some more CVT cooling mods. Since the E start will not turn this motor over, nor any other build likely to be on this set of cases I am considering cutting the entire starter portion of the case off, at the general area on the right side of the blue tape. As far as I can tell there is nothing critical or structural in the area of the starter. It would certainly allow air to flow through the CVT better. Also planning to remove the curved pieces from the CVT cover that are in front of the clutch area. Why not just remove the starter and push fresh air thru that opening ? |
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