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Post by pitobread on Feb 24, 2019 12:50:13 GMT -5
I use either my bench vice or arbour press to break the bead. clamp on the tire for one side, for the other place a block of wood in between the rim and the vice and roll the tire back.. hard to expain but it works and if your careful you wont scratch your rims. once you have the bead off the bead seat and the tire is all floppy the #1 thing to always do is on the opposite side of the tire your trying to pry at make sure the bead is in the bead drop in the rim (the smaller diameter section)
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Post by oldgeek on Feb 28, 2019 21:38:42 GMT -5
Well the needles I ordered came and I still cannot get this thing tuned the way I want it. There is a lean spot around 1/3 that just won't go away. I have so many different needles, slides and jets for the PHBG it is crazy, that I cannot get it tuned perfect.
I get so aggravated with these PHBG carbs, as others have said they should work up to 15 HP no problem. Believing that myself, and not wanting to move to a different carb just yet, I am going to try something else with the PHBG that I have never even thought of for some reason. The AU atomizer for the PHBG comes in several different sizes. From 2.58mm to 2.68mm in increments of 2. I have never needed to touch the atomizer to get a carb in tune on a build so far, so I mostly forgot about it. I pulled the atomizer out of 3 spare carbs I have. A 21mm genuine dell and 2 clones, a 19mm and a 21mm. The genuine dell had an atomizer marked 2.62mm, the clones had unmarked atomizers that also measured 2.62mm. There was also an atomizer in my carb box that was marked 2.60mm that I have no idea where it came from. In theory I need a larger atomizer. The best I could do this evening is use a 7/64 drill on one of the spare atomizers. It went pretty well but ended up being 2.72mm, which is pretty big.
After I got the carb installed I was able to get it to start a couple times but it was really, really rich. I could find one place in the throttle where it would rev out for me, but even after a couple needle and slide changes I could not even get it to start again. It is such a PITA to kick anyway!
I gave up for the evening, came home and ordered a 2.64,2.66 and a 2.68 AU atomizer from the land of TREATS to the tune of $12 each. I will get the PHBG setup one way or another, or not Lol!
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Post by oldgeek on Mar 4, 2019 22:56:39 GMT -5
Some stuff I ordered got here today, so I went over to Scootopia to install it. The Doppler straight groove pulley half I ordered from Scooter Attack got here amazingly quick, along with the PHBG AU needle jets I ordered from Treatland. I figured I would start with the Doppler pulley half, cause it should be easy, right? Well it still aint done. I shoulda spent a few extra dollars and got the Malossi, that I know would have worked, but I guess I am a glutton for punishment. I got the stock pulley apart and cleaned up and ready to go. First up a seemingly simple problem was the new seals in the Doppler pulley half would not go over the center hub of the stock pulley, no way in hell. I could have just pulled the seals from the used stock half and put them in the new pulley, but I had a new set of seals from Naraku for the torque driver so I put them in. The seals seemed to fit good, just like the original stock seals so I figured I was home free, but NO. Now the outer sleeve that holds the pins in place will only go on 1/3 of the way on the new pulley and it is pretty tight. I said screw it and found a big socket to use as an anvil so the pulley would not bend and used a large piece of PVC to drive the sleeve on. It was really tight, but I did not have to beat it to death. So I figure I was home free again, but NO. As I was working the pulley apart and together it was pumping grease through the new seals into the pulley sheave area and the clutch nut area. And no, I did not over grease it. So it took me a while to get the sleeve back off and checked the seals, they seemed fine. All three sets of seals, the original stock seals, the new Naraku seals and the new seals in the new Doppler pulley that were way to tight, are all marked 34*39*3 Then I got the idea to heat the Doppler seals that were so tight, with the heat gun and just slide them on the hub so they could sit overnight and stretch a bit. Even using lots of heat it took several attempts to get the seals on the hub. I have ZERO confidence that they will work right later, because I had to put them on upside down to even have a chance for them to go on the hub. When I install the seals in the pulley they will have to be flipped over and I doubt they will go back on the hub without gaffing the seal up. Needless to say I did not even screw with the carb tonight.
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Post by oldgeek on Mar 9, 2019 16:56:12 GMT -5
I serviced my spare stock Kymco TD assembly today so I could continue working on the other TD and hopefully get the Doppler straight groove pulley half installed and working. Also, after being reminded by 190mech earlier this week, I took some of my own often dispensed advice about always using a stock air box, and rigged one up to replace the Doppler air box "thing" I have been trying to use. I switched out some carb parts to ones that I know work with a proper air box and finally got the scoot cranked up. Without changing any carb parts It already runs pretty good. I took it around the loop and got 58.5 MPH out of it and the temps stayed pretty much in check. Now, if I can just get the straight groove TD working right I will be happy.
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Post by oldgeek on Mar 10, 2019 20:30:21 GMT -5
Took a decent ride today, the scoot is running pretty good as is. The carb still needs to be tweaked a bit, but the stock airbox has made a big difference in the overall tune. The needle is a bit abrupt with the air box, so it will be changing to one with a bit more taper.
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Post by oldgeek on Mar 11, 2019 21:15:33 GMT -5
Finished work around 12 today so I spent the afternoon working on the scoot. I took a couple extended rides in between tuning changes, there is now just over 150 miles on this build since I changed to the lower compression head. Tuning progressed so well today I got motivated and decided to install my newly mounted and balanced Michelin Power Pure 130/70 rear tire. The new tire replaces a 120/70 Duro tire that was way out of balance. Since I had to take the pipe off to put the new wheel on, I brazed up a couple leaks that were in the pipe from when I previously brazed it up. The weather cooled off considerably and it started raining so I have not been able to test ride it yet. Hopefully tomorrow. I am hoping the larger tire will help me to get this scoot up to a solid 60 MPH. I feel like I should be there already but it just ain't happening, yet. I also spent some time working on the Doppler straight groove TD half. I sanded the outside of the center hub down so the pin keeper sleeve is easy to put on and take off. I took the seals out of a spare stock Kymco TD and tried using them in the Doppler Pulley half, but they fit just a little loosely and come out of their seat when you open and close the TD. I am open to suggestions on what I should use to "glue" the seals in place. I gotta get this straight groove TD working. I have around 5 sets of seals and none of them will work for one reason or another.
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Post by oldgeek on Mar 12, 2019 22:13:33 GMT -5
I was not able to work with the scoot today until after dark. It had cooled off to 54° by then but I wanted to take a ride and check out the new rear tire and carb tune, so I bundled up a bit and took off. I am suddenly so happy with this scoot. The new rear tire makes a big difference in ride quality. I did not see any real difference in "gearing" due to the larger tire, but it is a little early to say for sure. The carb is tuned as good or better than any scoot I have modded so far. It is slightly rich just off idle then it clears up for the rest of the range nicely.
The motor makes some sounds I have never really heard before. It resonates around 30-35 MPH and sounds cool as hell IMO. There is also a strange sound that happens at low rpms on deceleration, not really the normal thud thud thud sound, but a cross between a chug and a knock. I believe it may be related to the richness just off of idle I mentioned. I will try to get some video of what I am hearing in the next couple of days.
Top speed is a solid 57mph and it gets most of the way there pretty fast. I had sliders with an averaged weight of 6.98G in the variator, I traded them out for some that have an averaged weight of 7.25g I dont think heavier weights will change things much, as I am already getting full travel on the variator and the rear pulley. The only thing I can think of that will get me a taller gear ratio, short of actual taller gears, is a variator with a larger diameter. There is a small amount of room for a larger variator, if I can find one.
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Post by oldgeek on Mar 14, 2019 21:48:19 GMT -5
I had a interesting day on this scoot. Almost like a dream! I started with changing the sliders in the variator to lighter ones. It made an overall improvement in the CVT. Next I tired a leaner slide (50 ) in the carb. That really cleared up the rich spot right off of idle. I carefully adjusted the air screw and to my surprise it has gotta be the best tune I have ever had on a carb. So I rode a while, then I rode some more, and I even saw 60 MPH a few times and 62 mph very briefly once with help from the wind. I had a blast down on the strip, and even did some 3-4 mile WOT runs. I did around 60 miles today. I went with the wife to get some dinner, went back to Scootopia and put the scoot up on the lift to check the TD because it was not wanting to downshift very well unless you slowed way down. As I was taking the CVT cover off, I noticed some oil on the bottom rear of the CVT cover. It turned out to be some premix. I have been seeing some premix around the right rear of the intake and by the cylinder base area near there. I clean it up and it reappears, but this was the first time it leaked down the back side of the swingarm and dripped off the bottom of the CVT cover. I previously looked for the source but could not really find it. I dont think it was coming from the carb nor from any of the joints in the upper part of the S6 intake. That pretty much leaves the intake to case joint and the cylinder base. I pulled the intake apart and off of the case, it seemed to be sealed to the case well, but I cannot say for sure that it was not leaking there. There are some thin flanges near the screw holes and the edge of the intake that is near the base of the cylinder. I never did positively locate the source of the leak but theorize the intake to case joint MUST be leaking, forcing premix out during the case compression part of the 2 stroke cycle. I never saw premix leaked anywhere on the intake, just on the case near the intake. Anyway I can seal it all up again and see what happens.....But then I noticed the crank moves side to side along its axis, which it should not be doing, and I can wiggle the variator side of the crank more than I would like to, front to back and up and down. I really dont know what to do I just got this thing setup pretty damm good, it is a BLAST! Should I say screw it, slap it back together and ride it till something really breaks? Or should I tear it down and save the crank and or cylinder from certain destruction? I hate decisions, a poll may be in order!
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Post by oldgeek on Mar 14, 2019 22:06:32 GMT -5
Poll added, It can be found at the top of each page. You can vote once, results are hidden until poll ends Friday night. I shall do what the forum decides! The suspense is killing me!
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Post by oldgeek on Mar 15, 2019 18:44:10 GMT -5
Bump, Vote now!
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Post by gsx600racer on Mar 15, 2019 19:09:31 GMT -5
I choose plan "C" and strap this puppy on it.
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Post by 190mech on Mar 15, 2019 19:28:47 GMT -5
No pole here,I'd say let it ride!The master 2stroke tuners run loose bearings and say a small leak AFTER the intake is OK,youve got the jetting right(with a slight leak),,You have passed the 60mph threshold this machine couldnt reach before..Congratulations!!
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Post by oldgeek on Mar 15, 2019 19:42:34 GMT -5
No pole here,I'd say let it ride!The master 2stroke tuners run loose bearings and say a small leak AFTER the intake is OK,youve got the jetting right(with a slight leak),,You have passed the 60mph threshold this machine couldnt reach before..Congratulations!! Yeah, I am extremely happy despite what I found. 60MPH has been a goal I have been trying to achieve for waay too long! It would be nice to be able to enjoy it a bit longer. I drained the gear oil again, it looks like poo, again.
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Post by 190mech on Mar 16, 2019 4:20:48 GMT -5
I re read your thread,on page 6 the cases were modded for slip fitting the main shaft bearings,,with some miles they are likely opening up a bit causing some free play..It will be hard to get a tighter fit without a bunch of work...
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Post by oldgeek on Mar 16, 2019 7:01:50 GMT -5
The votes are in, looks like it was a landslide victory, splitting the cases wins! Thanks for your votes, without your help who knows how long it would have taken me to decide for myself!
I am pretty sure I will retire this set of cases. Mostly because the gear oil is black again and I feel like my repair to the gearbox is failing. It would suck for the gearbox to lock up at WOT! If the transmission is wrecked when I open it up, at least I can still use this set of cases after I open up the cylinder base area, to test fit the 54mm phongeer cylinder. I cant wait to see how that cyl sets up!
Time to start modding another set of stock cases, gotta get something fast back on the road!
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