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Post by oldgeek on Nov 18, 2019 19:45:14 GMT -5
EDIT: Posted this in the wrong thread LoL!
I got the crank installed this evening using the puller, after 2 fails yesterday using the hot cold method. I am not sure what was going on with the hot cold method, I usually get it done easily with my setup.
I actually had to file the ring end gaps to get them to spec, not used to having to do that! Did a final check on the cylinder and base spacer, then cleaned them up. I hope to get it sealed up and installed tomorrow in between jobs at work.
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Post by oldgeek on Nov 18, 2019 22:25:12 GMT -5
What I meant to post in this thread is that I resealed the intake and got everything back together. Went to start it and the rings have seated because the compression is up again. Thank god it starts on the first kick if you put the choke on! The E-starter will not turn it over, even with the big ole battery from the fake helix installed  I really gotta research the heavy duty starters I have seen for these motors. |
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Post by Lucass2T on Nov 19, 2019 6:52:31 GMT -5
Peugeot speedfight/vivacity 100cc starter?
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Post by oldgeek on Nov 19, 2019 22:43:34 GMT -5
Peugeot speedfight/vivacity 100cc starter? Thanks for the idea but as far as I can tell they have 9 teeth on the shaft. The Kymco has 11 Anyone know how many teeth the AF16 starter has? |
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Post by oldgeek on Dec 9, 2019 20:15:44 GMT -5
I ordered a couple reinforced Starters from autotech on feebay. This is a test fit of the new starter on my 81cc cases that I have apart anyways. The bolt pattern matches up, but it will not seat properly due to the power terminal being in a different location compared to the stock Kymco starter.  Cutting a slot in the case solved the issue.  |
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Post by oldgeek on Dec 11, 2019 21:49:58 GMT -5
Time to get one of these new starters fitted on the 103cc. There is no way around that I could see to mod the cases without pulling the motor from the scoot. its fairly easy to pull the motor on this scoot, so I pulled it out to work on it.  I made a template from the set of cases I modded last night and bolted it to the 103 cases.   Whipped out the rotary tool and filed it a bit.  It fits now.  Here are pictures of the 2 starters, stock one on the right, new one on the left.   Since I had to pull it out, here are pictures of the plug.    Time to go eat dinner, so I will have to find out tomorrow if the new starter has enough torque to turn the 103 over and start it up. |
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Post by oldgeek on Dec 12, 2019 15:43:27 GMT -5
Success! The reinforced starter has plenty of torque to turn the 103 over. The oversized battery I took from the fake Helix may also have a little to do with it. I saw plenty of heavy duty starters for these motors on the net, most of them are quite costly. I decided to try these from Autotech on Feebay because they were pretty cheap. I paid around $42 bucks for each of them including shipping. It is really nice to have E-start working. It's one reason I like these motors more than the horizontal Mina's, you don't have to ditch the E-start and rely on the kicker. |
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Post by oldgeek on Dec 15, 2019 15:20:58 GMT -5
It made it to 61F here today, so I went for a ride. I stayed inland a bit and ripped up a few frontage roads here and there. I just realized that the contra spring is just a tad weak. The spring is a newish stock spring, so the search is on for something just a bit stiffer.
For quite a while I have been battling what appears to be a premix leak on the right side of the carb. I thought it may have been something with the intake, but have resealed that so it it coming from somewhere else. It almost HAS to be the bowl vent on that side of the carb. I think air flow may be siphoning gas out of it while I am moving. I am going to try to adjust the float to get the gas level just a tad lower in the bowl. I am also wondering if it is ok to pipe the vents to an area that is not directly in the wind?
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Post by oldgeek on Dec 28, 2019 16:49:50 GMT -5
I have been riding a good bit as the weather permits. I found a new combination for the CVT and have been trying to get it dialed in. I am currently using the minarelli Malossi OR rear pulley that 190mech modified for me,along with a Polini belt that is much too long for the stock Kymco pulley. It is still just a wee bit too long, but I think it is better than being too short. I have also had a exhaust leak that I thought was the flange to cylinder seal. It got worse so I pulled the pipe off and found this. It is going to take a while to fix that.  So I decided to give this pipe a try.  It revs great on the stand, but on the ground there is 0 bottom end. However as soon as the revs get up it has a very decent hit, almost startling. |
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Post by Jwhood on Dec 28, 2019 18:02:27 GMT -5
That pipe probably screams
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Post by oldgeek on Jan 11, 2020 23:15:45 GMT -5
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Post by oldgeek on Jan 12, 2020 19:14:56 GMT -5
The butt dyno results are in!
Apparently the 21mm Dellorto carb was holding this motor back a fair amount. The 28mm PWK has improved overall performance quite a bit and it is not fully tuned yet. I am also still working on the CVT setup.
Out of the box the 28mm PWK was setup with a 118MJ, 45PJ and a JJK needle on the 3rd slot. There was a slight bog just off idle so I switched out the 45PJ with a 48PJ. Then I moved the needle 1 notch leaner but that was the wrong way so I moved it 1 notch richer than it started out with, currently at the 2nd notch. There is a small spot at 1/4 throttle that does not respond as well as I would like yet.
It pulls pretty hard when it is solid on the pipe at 9.5K to 10.5K I cant seem to get the clutch to hold off enough. I am using the S6 clutch with old red or orange springs, it starts grabbing at 6K I think I need it to wait utill 7 or 8K. I am going to order some fresh orange springs to see if that helps.
The CVT cover had to go temporarily because it was in the way of mounting the carb. I made the plate for the starter bendix so I would have e-start. I dont plan to run it without the CVT cover, I just was not ready to hack to CVT cover up to see if the huge PWK carb was going to work. Without a proper CVT cover I am chicken to take it out on the longer test loop to do a top speed run. It should make it to 55+ no problem.
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Post by oldgeek on Jan 12, 2020 21:18:03 GMT -5
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Post by aeroxbud on Jan 13, 2020 9:49:08 GMT -5
I can see what you are on about with the carb sticking out. It's almost like a Harley with their massive air filter sticking out.
Sounds better than a Harley though. 😁
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 13, 2020 10:40:48 GMT -5
The butt dyno results are in! Apparently the 21mm Dellorto carb was holding this motor back a fair amount. The 28mm PWK has improved overall performance quite a bit and it is not fully tuned yet. I am also still working on the CVT setup. What you experienced with the carb, going from a 21 Dell to a 28 PWK, is the same reason all the "Hawaiians" run the 28 OKO pwk here. Virtually all the OKOs here are the same price 24/26/28. So most people go for "the bigger is better". Pretty much everyone on Oahu runs the 28 wide open, some people run the velocity stack too. The Downside: 1. The OKO 28 pwk drinks/guzzles so much gas. 2. Low throttle tuning on the 28 pwk's can be a struggle. Often times you'll see the Honda guys adjusting their carb at stop lights. Why they do that, i have no clue, maybe it's to draw attention to themselves. However, to solve the low throttle response problem, you can fabricate and install a Venturri Divider. It's a plate that splits the carb mouth in 1/2. From 1/2 throttle and below, all the air is channelled in via the lower portion of the divider plate. It improves the vacuum and velocity allowing for a better draw of fuel from the main jet. I made and installed my own after reading about it from Rich's Taylor'd Porting. Tried it out and never had problems with 1/2 throttle and below after that. I love the top end of the 28 PWKs. Wide open throttle on those carbs are Fun. |
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