CVT Inspection [Picture Diary]

[drawkward]

I had some trouble the night before trying to get the two phillips head bolts off of the plastic cover. I took the advice of the forum (Thanks guys!) and purchased a $7 impact driver kit from Harbor Freight Tools. It made the whole job much smoother. I highly recommend getting one.





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The large impact driver phillips bit fit nice and snug, even after i stripped them out with a screwdriver. I removed these two screws then removed the kick starter and circlip.





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My plastic cover has some foam glued to the inside to keep vibration and CVT noise down.



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Notice all of the residue from where they glued the foam on. Ugh.



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My CVT cover has some cooling ducts manufactured in. No need for any modification here.



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I removed the filter over the variator and and kick starter. I then loosened all the phillips head bolts on the CVT cover with my new impact driver.



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Pulling of the CVT cover is made easier with a well placed screwdriver.



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I placed the CVT cover on the floor with all of the bolts in their respective places for better organization.



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This is my CVT. I do my initial inspection before the ensuing tear down.



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The varaitor doesn't appear to have a washer.



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I've noticed some considerable bog after coming to a stop and trying to accelerate. I suspected a weak contra spring, so I decided to start her up and see whats going on.



This seems to confirm my suspicions. I will have to remove the clutch and rear pulley assembly for a closer inspection.

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I started by removing the bolt holding the clutch assembly. I used a 24mm socket and an impact wrench. My foot on the tire gave enough braking force to counteract the force of the impact wrench and the bolt broke free.



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I pulled the clutch assembly from the rear shaft and freed the belt. I also removed the bolt holding the variator with a 17mm socket and impact wrench. The engine compression was enough to break the bolt free after a couple of tries. The clutch shoes look great.



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I pulled the variator off and proceeded to inspect everything.



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There was a small washer hidden between the two pulleys. I don't know if it is necessary, so I removed it. After riding, I do seem to be going faster. I need to confirm this.



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There are some dark rings on the variator that I suspect are not supposed to be there. It doesn't feel to be too deep of a score, but I'm not sure if it is normal or not.





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I weighed my weights on a scale that reads in whole grams only. It gave me enough of an idea of where I'm at regarding my CVT tuning, and why my motor doesn't feel to be getting to the power band until about 30 mph. A couple weights read 7 grams, but my scale isn't very accurate.



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A closer look at my contra spring and clutch area doesn't expose any visual defects, but I know something is going on here. I didn't have an extra hand to aid in the disassembly so this is as far as I got with it.



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I put everything back together and purchased some new higher quality allen bolts to replace the cheap chinese phillips head bolts on the CVT cover. Looks much better now.



Replacement bolt information for CVT cover
Small bolts (x8) - M6 x 25mm with a 1.00 pitch
Large bolts (x2) - M6 x 35mm with a 1.00 pitch

[190mech]

You should pull the clutch assy apart and inspect it for proper lube
and for wear,looks like its sticking in the vid..Here is a vid Brent
has 49ccscoot.com/clutchvideo.html that should help..
Might wanna swap out that TD spring for a 1500 or 2000 too.

[drawkward]

I have the oil filter wrench, but I don't have the vice. I have a lot of C clamps though, think I can rig something up?

[90GTVert]

If you have a 38mm socket you can just hold the clutch assembly with your feet and use your impact wrench to remove the nut that holds the clutch and rear pulley together.

[drawkward]

38mm socket. That will be a tool I buy and return after use. I just can't see anything else I would need it for. However, it would be a great addition to my scooter's tool kit that I'm building.

I was interested to see what input you guys might be able to give about my roller weights, the black lines on the variator pulley, and the washer I removed. I'm dying to know if it was necessary. I don't want to put too many miles on it without it being in there if it turns out to be needed.

Oh and if there is a way to clean/lube my pulley, how would I do that? I don't want to get lube on the pulley face itself, obviously. I just need to figure out a way to get that spring to do it's job. I also don't want to buy a new one just to have the same problem, if it's just a lube issue.

[90GTVert]

For $15, a 38mm socket is very worth having and keeping if you're going to be working on the scooter. If you ever try to do much CVT tuning and switch contra springs around a few times you'll really appreciate it.

The black lines on your variator look like the outermost point that your belt is traveling. It's not too bad now. Removing the washer should cause your belt to ride just slightly higher, so that line may move. The only negative side effect of remobing that washer could be that the scooter takes off a little slower because the belt can't get as far into the pulley for your lowest gear ratio. If you haven't noticed that, or if you don't mind it, just leave it out. Your roller weights seem really heavy to me. I always had good luck with 4g rollers stock. Maybe you could pick up a set of 4g rollers and try them. If you don't like the results you could try staggering them (4g,8g,4g,8g,4g,8g) to create the equivalent of 6g rollers. If you still don't like that, put the stock rollers back in.

You may also wanna check out the torque driver, as shown in the link below. If that doesn't help, consider picking up some stiffer contra springs.
49ccscoot.com/tqdriver.html

[2strokd]

Lookin good ! Im glad to see you werent afraid to tackle the job.
Sounds like your idle is too high(hard to tell). Like 190 and Vert said, the TD might be sticking and need cleaned, or a stiffer spring. I would start with a 1,000 and go up if you need to. I used a 1,000(blue) with my stock motor. Here is a link to a set of three torque and clutch springs for under $40 shipped ;D. cgi.ebay.com/Race-Spring-Yamaha-Aprilia-Malaguti-MBK-Benelli-BETA_W0QQitemZ230417707176QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotorcycles_Parts_Accessories?hash=item35a5f730a8.
I have (as well as others here) bought parts from Autotech355(Carlos) many times and i am very happy with his service and parts.
The 38mm socket is worth it . I dont have one yet, but like Brent said if you plan on working on your scoot much this is a must! I have had mine apart sooo many times im surprised my vice dosnt have wear marks from my TD There are other mods and "speed secrets" that you can do to your torque=driver for that little extra but for now you are on the right path getting "comfy" with your cvt system .
I like the new bolts for the cover! Nice ride!

[drawkward]

Brent - Thanks for the advice on the rollers. I was very stuck on this. There are just too many options, but I feel safer now that you mentioned that I could stagger and create the illusion of 6g rollers. I will be opening up my torque driver this week and checking everything out.

2strokd - I thought my idle was too high as well. I started it up last night and the revs just shot right up. My tuning is way out of wack too. I just can't figure it out. Might have something to do with it being so cold but I can't find the sweet spot, so I compensated with the idle. Thanks for the link to the springs, that's a great deal.

Thanks for the compliment 2strokd. Every time I go out to the grocery store, someone asks me where I got it and where they could get one. I gave a drunk guy a ride up the street and all he kept saying was "I'll pay whatever you want man just get me one of these" He apparently lives right down the street from me. I think I could sell this thing anytime I want. It's a good feeling to know that if the shit hits the fan, I can sell my scooter ASAP. I swear if some one set up a real LEGIT scooter shop, not just a store, they would make bank around here.

As for the socket.. it will be a last resort. I'm definitely going to try to rig something up first.

I didn't get a chance to measure my weights, as I don't have anything that can measure in mm. Do you guys happen to know what size weights would fit? I was thinking something like this so I could experiment with the right set up, this ( cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Zuma-BWS-Vino-jog-15X12-mixing-roller-weights-2g-13g_W0QQitemZ290385528672QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_ATV_Parts_Accessories?hash=item439c538760#ht_6582wt_1165 ) and set 2stroked linked to... I would be able to fine tune to my hearts desire.

[Reign]

I'm just going to throw this out there seeing you asked about that washer: When I tried to remove mine, I noticed a nasty "bell ringing" sound coming from my CVT. It ended up that when I removed that washer, it was almost impossible to tighten my drive plate up against that metal bushing, which was making the drive plate wobble and it caused some pretty nasty damage on the aluminum drive plate. I ended up throwing that washer back in and it's been fine since. If you notice any sounds like a tink tink, or a bell ringing, I'd throw that washer back in. Just my 2 cents

[2strokd]

The 15x12mm rollers are what you need. A tuning set like the one you linked to would be a good idea .
As far as carb tuning, start with your idle air screw 1-1/2 turns out from seat. And adjust your idle accordingly. Thats a good place to start. You might need to go a little richer(in) with the idle/air screw if your riding in the cold with cold starts.

[andsetinn]

To measure the weights, put all six weights on the scale and divide the number by six. That should give you pretty accurate weight, down to rougly 0.2 grams.

[drawkward]

Jun 17, 2010 17:33:53 GMT -5 andsetinn said:

To measure the weights, put all six weights on the scale and divide the number by six. That should give you pretty accurate weight, down to rougly 0.2 grams.

I just measure one at a time with a digital scale that measures down to 1/10th gram. That or if I have two different weights, I put both weights on there and divide by two. Any method would work, really.

[redorchestra]

Dec 29, 2009 19:32:10 GMT -5 drawkward said:

I weighed my weights on a scale that reads in whole grams only. It gave me enough of an idea of where I'm at regarding my CVT tuning, and why my motor doesn't feel to be getting to the power band until about 30 mph. A couple weights read 7 grams, but my scale isn't very accurate.

Jun 23, 2010 20:32:08 GMT -5 drawkward said:

Jun 17, 2010 17:33:53 GMT -5 andsetinn said:

To measure the weights, put all six weights on the scale and divide the number by six. That should give you pretty accurate weight, down to rougly 0.2 grams.

I just measure one at a time with a digital scale that measures down to 1/10th gram. That or if I have two different weights, I put both weights on there and divide by two. Any method would work, really.

:stumped:

[drawkward]

This thread is a little on the old side. Forgot about that scale and the picture of it. Now I realize why the weight measuring was brought up. Sorry about that. I use a much more accurate scale now. Got it from HF Tools. Here's the link to it, but they don't have a picture. www.harborfreight.com/1000-gram-digital-scale-97920.html



Thanks for the idea. Makes a lot more sense to me now. Would have made my measurements more accurate before.