gy6me
Scoot Member
Posts: 25
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Post by gy6me on Oct 14, 2018 23:29:45 GMT -5
magneto removal tool has failed.. threads are now stripped... two days on a problem that should take 30 seconds to complete.. chinese bikes.. now what?
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Post by oldgeek on Oct 15, 2018 6:11:44 GMT -5
I have not worked on the 4T scoots much, just the 2T stuff. I understand your frustration though. You may be able to use another type of puller that uses a plate and 3 screws that attach to the fan mounting holes. You should be able to rent one from a auto parts store. Hint: if you screw the 3 screws into the flywheel too far you will wreck the stator for sure. Also spray some penetrating fluid on it and let it set overnight.
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Post by 90GTVert on Oct 15, 2018 7:03:25 GMT -5
You can also try heating the flywheel center a little to see if that helps it break free.
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Post by scooterpimp on Oct 15, 2018 8:44:36 GMT -5
Proper pullers are. Worth their weight in gold imo , gotta thread the outer completely before adding inner , if a buddy is around may get away with 2 large screwdriver s pulling on flywheel while crank nut is backed flush with crank end , then shock nut with hammer
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Post by FrankenMech on Oct 15, 2018 9:59:30 GMT -5
Auto parts stores have been 'renting' (usually a returnable deposit) tools like that for at least 40 years. Some even have a picture menu of some tools like a steering wheel puller right on the counter top so you can point to the tool you want even if you don't know what it is called or don't speaka zee Engrish.
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Post by gsx600racer on Oct 15, 2018 10:29:35 GMT -5
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Post by pinkscoot on Oct 15, 2018 11:07:07 GMT -5
You need to be careful that you don't damage your crank. That would cause you far more headaches.
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Post by jackrides on Oct 15, 2018 11:42:42 GMT -5
Read scooterpimp post again! Once puller is bolted tight, hit the center bolt with a 12 oz to 16oz hammer. Not even as hard as you can. It will probably pop right off.
Got ahead of myself, sorry. When the bolts are fully engaged and the center bolt is tight, Proceed.
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Post by snaker on Oct 15, 2018 11:43:09 GMT -5
Most if not all use a left hand thread on the outer puller - to - flywheel connection and is installed ccw(Just checkin)
Try removing the puller center push bolt completely and install puller as far into the flywheel as possible.
It might grab some undamaged threads.
I tried to use other type pullers that I already owned on mine the first time and had no success. Bolted in to all four of the fan mount holes and had to stop because the threaded holes started to bulge. Got the proper $9 puller and the flywheel was off in a jiff. You need to keep the pulling forces near the center because the flywheel is just too thin.
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Post by snaker on Oct 15, 2018 19:25:58 GMT -5
We've cut $400+ clutch's off snowmobile engine's to save the crankshaft and engine.
Gotta do what you gotta do.
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Post by gsx600racer on Oct 16, 2018 1:27:18 GMT -5
Try this. Loosen and back off flywheel nut till its flush with the end of the crankshaft. This will help protect the crankshaft threads if you get a little over zealous with the hammer. That and if you bugger up the threads, the nut will chase the threads when you remove it.  This his how I configured my puller. Double nut the end of the bolt/threaded rod so it only treads in 3-4 turns. This way you don't go in too far and damage your stator.   Install puller to flywheel and snug up the 2 6mm bolts/rods and then the center bolt of the puller. Make sure you center everything the best you can.  Then tighten the center bolt on the puller putting pressure on the puller. The take a hammer, preferably something solid(not a rubber dead bow)and hit it with some "spirited" strikes, don't go full force. You are relying on the shock to break it free. After a couple hits and and it doesnt pop, tighten the center bolt a bit and repeat with hammer. The trick is slow and easy, not brute force. Using heat will help if its really stubborn. Happy times to be had by all.  |
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Post by oldgeek on Oct 16, 2018 23:09:06 GMT -5
 Put that sledge away! Lol! Since the FW is fubard, weld a big nut centered over the center hub. Then run a bolt in it with the impact. Between the heat cycling of welding and the impact driver, it will surrender.
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Put that sledge away! Lol! Since the FW is fubard, weld a big nut centered over the center hub. Then run a bolt in it with the impact. Between the heat cycling of welding and the impact driver, it will surrender.