|
|
Post by katt on Dec 29, 2018 4:11:51 GMT -5
Probably used too much, plenty of it came out on outside, probably inside too.
Since its rubber (silicone) even if it comes off it should not do anything bad will just get cough in the oil filter?
 |
|
|
|
Post by 190mech on Dec 29, 2018 5:24:46 GMT -5
You are OK there,the concern is excess RTV breaking loose and clogging an oil passage...
|
|
|
|
Post by katt on Dec 29, 2018 18:10:17 GMT -5
You are OK there,the concern is excess RTV breaking loose and clogging an oil passage... AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAh forgot about that part, going to do it over. |
|
|
|
Post by lilpinny on Dec 29, 2018 18:27:01 GMT -5
For me using RTV on those thin little surfaces was always hard. Dunno.
I used gaskets.
|
|
|
|
Post by oldgeek on Dec 29, 2018 18:30:56 GMT -5
Yeah and other misc bolts as well like engine mounts etc. I just making sure its not to strong for aluminum.
I suggest using Hondabond, Threebond, or Yamabond to seal the cases together. Like he said^^^ Nothing better than the above.  |
|
|
|
Post by katt on Dec 29, 2018 18:48:14 GMT -5
Here's what i got i put too much and it come out both ways after splitting 20 hours later i notice that it was pushed all the way out on both sides of crankcase rather than stay in between.
I did as manual told put together, wait 1 hour then torque to specs.
As you can see original wet gasket was similar way .
I suggest using Hondabond, Threebond, or Yamabond to seal the cases together. Like he said^^^ Nothing better than the above.  I thought its just better brand of similar product, or it actually produces different result?
|
|
|
|
Post by katt on Dec 29, 2018 18:56:56 GMT -5
My first time using it any advice how to use it appreciated. I noticed also that it was tough to split compared to stock gasket so i guess it works, just need to make sure it will come out towards outside not inside of case. For me using RTV on those thin little surfaces was always hard. Dunno. I used gaskets. I'd prefer regular gasket as well. They don't make regular gasket for the crankcase of this engine. |
|
|
|
Post by oldgeek on Dec 29, 2018 19:07:43 GMT -5
I use a very thin coat on both sealing surfaces. Applied using a artist type paint brush. I have used a finger to just dab it on very thinly too.
Its nothing like silicone at all.
|
|
|
|
Post by 190mech on Dec 29, 2018 19:37:53 GMT -5
Ive used Ultra Black and Ultra Grey for years,Very thin coat though,remember the cases are precision CNC machined so not much sealant is needed...
|
|
|
|
Post by ryan_ott on Dec 29, 2018 20:04:54 GMT -5
Less is more...
|
|
|
|
Post by katt on Dec 29, 2018 20:14:19 GMT -5
I use a very thin coat on both sealing surfaces. Applied using a artist type paint brush. I have used a finger to just dab it on very thinly too. Its nothing like silicone at all. Yeah that's what i am thinking apply tiny layer to both sides of crankcase, wait hour then put together and torque.
Is keeping it out for hour apart is good idea?
|
|
|
|
Post by benji on Dec 29, 2018 20:16:17 GMT -5
Like he said^^^ Nothing better than the above. I thought its just better brand of similar product, or it actually produces different result?
it is NOT the same product, at all. Rtv is silicone based and not gasoline resistant AT ALL. This is a very common mistake made by even veteran engine builders (who usually can get away with it because of being so careful every where else). IF IT SAYS "NOT FOR HEADGASKETS" DONT USE IT ON THE CASE/BORE/CYLINDER/HEAD/INTAKE/CARB/ETC. Use the real shit, or expect leaks. Hondabond aka yamabond actually has different ratings and some are ok and some aren't. I believe "4" is the one to use on cases, but I'm not sure. Copper sprays or gasket-makers usually work well too. You gotta read the directions. And not read INTO the directions. They aren't implying anything- they just tell it to you straight. Again, if it says "not for headgaskets" or "not gasoline safe", don't use it to seal the motor. Cuz the motor runs on gasoline; and that'll eat the gasket material your using; and then it'll fail and leak; and then youll be posting "why does my scooter not run" again haha. Also, maybe check your procedures against known best practices. The gasket-maker is a last ditch effort against a leak. The machined surface of the case should suffice IF you torqued the case bolts properly and used threadlocker to keep them from backing out. |
|
|
|
Post by Happypancake! on Dec 29, 2018 20:49:09 GMT -5
 Its all i use. Great product |
|
|
|
Post by aeroxbud on Dec 29, 2018 21:29:12 GMT -5
The thing is with Yamabond you can use so little, there is no chance of it blocking oil ways. I just dab it on with a finger. Probably using about a 10th the amount in the pictures. just enough to cover the sealing surface.
|
|
|
|
Post by katt on Dec 29, 2018 22:19:26 GMT -5
I thought its just better brand of similar product, or it actually produces different result? it is NOT the same product, at all. Rtv is silicone based and not gasoline resistant AT ALL. This is a very common mistake made by even veteran engine builders (who usually can get away with it because of being so careful every where else). IF IT SAYS "NOT FOR HEADGASKETS" DONT USE IT ON THE CASE/BORE/CYLINDER/HEAD/INTAKE/CARB/ETC. Use the real shit, or expect leaks. Its saying "The product retains effective properties in contact withautomotive fluids, such as motor oil, transmission fluids,alcohol and antifreeze solutions. Note: Not recommended forparts in contact with gasoline. Product is not recommended for use as a cylinder head gasket or head gasket sealant."
|
|
