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Post by katt on Jan 3, 2019 20:25:19 GMT -5
I need to buy new stator since mine does not output enough voltage.
OEM stator is $65 however its 6 pole stator i think its overpriced for that basic stator.
I'd like to get 10-12pole stator universal or from another bike.
space inside bell 94mm x 35mm stator mounts with 3 bolts (magnetic pickup don't matter i can use old one).
Original
Stator Seat
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Post by 90GTVert on Jan 4, 2019 7:08:25 GMT -5
It may be worth just paying the $65 for a genuine Yamaha stator and not creating more headaches. More so on a scoot that you only plan to use for a few months.
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Post by benji on Jan 4, 2019 8:28:33 GMT -5
Are you one of those people who get the urge to take things apart to make them 'better' while having no actual plan to do so?
If so, maybe re-read the above sentence a few times until you have an epiphany.
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Post by ryan_ott on Jan 4, 2019 9:50:02 GMT -5
If you have not replaced the flywheel that surely is an issue. If you get some output from the stator you may just need the flywheel because of the damage to the magnets. Check the resistance of the stator and for shorts/grounds. No since causing more issues for yourself re engineering the scoot. Day 3. Dunno if i broken the flywheel magneto flywheel by using 2 jaw puller because it took lots of force since it rusted or its because bearing was worn. Saved the head gasket. p.s. Crankcase between two pieces had liquid gasket.
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Post by katt on Jan 4, 2019 16:20:38 GMT -5
If you have not replaced the flywheel that surely is an issue. If you get some output from the stator you may just need the flywheel because of the damage to the magnets. Check the resistance of the stator and for shorts/grounds. No since causing more issues for yourself re engineering the scoot. I did get new flywheel magneto however kept old stator, because i seen no damage i know i should have tested it first. Now i measure reistance on ignition coul and its 400oHm when spec say 600-1000oHm in manual. Also it seems like its shorted on ground.
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Post by gsx600racer on Jan 4, 2019 16:24:17 GMT -5
If you have not replaced the flywheel that surely is an issue. If you get some output from the stator you may just need the flywheel because of the damage to the magnets. Check the resistance of the stator and for shorts/grounds. No since causing more issues for yourself re engineering the scoot. I did get new flywheel magneto however kept old stator, because i seen no damage i know i should have tested it first. Now i measure reistance on ignition coul and its 400oHm when spec say 600-1000oHm in manual. Also it seems like its shorted on ground. There should be no resistance if its shorted.
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Post by katt on Jan 22, 2019 1:01:47 GMT -5
Okay here is wired thing i have tested stator off the donor bike and my old one botch have no resistance to ground (body of the scooter) on the accessory light coils. Basically i put into sound diode continuity test on the multi meter then touch wire off accessory harness on stator then touch body of the stator that bolts to flywheel and it shows continuity! I thought my old stator was dead because of this however my donor bike stator that is working fine but behaves the same. Resistance between wires coming off the accessory coils is 0.4omh, then resistance to the body of stator, frame and ground wire of the battery is 0.4omh when stator harness disconnected.
In this video on 1:20 he checks for shorts, and i do have beep there, are Yamaha stators special or smth?
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Post by gsx600racer on Jan 22, 2019 3:25:55 GMT -5
You need to get your hands on a service manual and find the testing spec's for the stator. Testing with the meter set to diode/tone is not going to give you the correct reading. Your basically checking for continuity. You need to set the meter to "ohms" Ω. You will need to be in the right "range" to get the best reading. If your testing with a 5 dollar special or harbor freight freebie meter, don't expect the values to be correct.
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Post by katt on Jan 22, 2019 4:36:46 GMT -5
You need to get your hands on a service manual and find the testing spec's for the stator. Testing with the meter set to diode/tone is not going to give you the correct reading. Your basically checking for continuity. You need to set the meter to "ohms" Ω. You will need to be in the right "range" to get the best reading. If your testing with a 5 dollar special or harbor freight freebie meter, don't expect the values to be correct. Only spec from manual is
nothing else in manual. My point is how can accessory light poles be shorted on ground and scooter still working okay?!
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Post by 190mech on Jan 22, 2019 5:09:53 GMT -5
Check page 7-32,it gives the ohm values for the lighting coils,looks like yours are in spec..
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Post by katt on Jan 22, 2019 5:15:36 GMT -5
Check page 7-32,it gives the ohm values for the lighting coils,looks like yours are in spec.. Thanks,
Interesting they actually specify that resistance should be tested from each wire of the lighting pole to the ground not between two wires. Guess yamaha stator is special in that sense.
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Post by gsx600racer on Jan 22, 2019 14:28:21 GMT -5
Not really, the stator coils are 2 different circuits(lights/charge). Pretty much the same design as all half wave setups.
@ 5000RPM is 14volt 120W(per manual spec) Note: this is based using factory regulator.
Ohm's law says your output just over 8 amps(charging circuit)
Your meter is capable of measuring up to 10 amps.
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Post by FrankenMech on Jan 22, 2019 18:26:44 GMT -5
The charge state of the battery will determine the charge voltage. The charging voltage should only be measured with a fully charged battery. It should be 14VDC +/- 0.2V or in other words 13.8-14.2VDC.
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Post by katt on Jan 22, 2019 19:23:45 GMT -5
Ohm's law says your output just over 8 amps(charging circuit) Your meter is capable of measuring up to 10 amps. How exactly i can measure the output amp output of stator what connection sequence for multimeter?
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Post by gsx600racer on Jan 23, 2019 1:28:03 GMT -5
Ohm's law says your output just over 8 amps(charging circuit) Your meter is capable of measuring up to 10 amps. How exactly i can measure the output amp output of stator what connection sequence for multimeter? I was going to show you on my scooter, but Iv loaned my meter out to a friend. Watch this video first so you can get understanding of the connections. My suggestion would be to find the fused connection(on positive side of battery) and remove the fuse and use the meters probes to act like the fuse connection.(this way you can e-start the engine) There are usually 2 wires on the positive side of the battery, a big one and a small one. The big one goes directly to the starter solonid. The small one goes the the key switch and also part the same circuit that comes from the regulator to charge the battery. Or Disconnect the positive side of the battery and use the meters probes to rebridge the connection BUT....... DO NOT CRANK OVER THE ENGINE WITH THE ELECTRIC STARTER, KICK START ONLY....... IF you do you will probably blow the fuse inside the meter. With the engine not running Turn on anything that draws power and you will see the current draw with the meter. With the engine running do the same and you should see the drop, then the regulator kick in and see it charge and if you rev the engine you should see it climb more. Also when you change the probes in the meter(for amps), do not check voltage, you will blow the fuse or damage the meter. Remember to switch the probes back when done.
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