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Post by dude on Aug 16, 2011 12:07:27 GMT -5
How do you know if you are using a to stiff of a torque spring??
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Post by 90GTVert on Aug 16, 2011 12:33:58 GMT -5
If you can't keep the revs down the contra is too stiff.
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Post by 2strokd on Aug 17, 2011 7:59:01 GMT -5
What 90GT said.
If it feels like all the sudden you put shorter gears in(lower top speed) when you swapped to a stiffer spring you know its too stiff.
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lbo
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 141
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Post by lbo on Aug 17, 2011 9:15:51 GMT -5
Couldn't you just compensate by going with heavier roller weights to counteract that?
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Post by 2strokd on Aug 17, 2011 11:13:50 GMT -5
To an extent... If your engine dosnt make the power to push the weights and compress the spring, things still wont be right tho.
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Post by reveeen on Aug 17, 2011 14:13:48 GMT -5
This is a55 about face.
There is absolutely no reason to change out a perfectly good torque spring unless you see signs of belt slippage on your variator (black marks).
When "tuning" your transmission, this is the very first thing you check for, and possibly "fix", "the black marks". No black marks..... don't mess with the spring, messing with the spring won't get you anything/anywhere, unless the belt is slipping.
When you have determined that your belt is slipping torque springs come in 3 "weights". Stock (or about 750), +1 (or about 1000), +1.5 (or about 1500). Your "new" spring MUST NOT BIND, inside, or outside, when you go to install it. If it does, you have the wrong spring, and installing it will cause you grief, meaning: it won't work properly.
Typically each jump in torque spring "weight" equates to 1g (per roller) weight difference for your transmission to behave as it did with the lighter spring.
Any so-called transmission kits you buy contain a torque spring and some rollers (along with a variator, or at least the inner side). Any kits I have bought were a waste of money over stock, unless it is a "complete over range transmission kit".
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Post by dude on Aug 17, 2011 22:57:56 GMT -5
Couldn't you just compensate by going with heavier roller weights to counteract that?
I tried that with 7.2 gr. its close and it takes off good add top speed is there but it doesnt pull as strong still reving a little high.
belt slippage on your variator (black marks).
Athena spring with a Molossi torsion controler 6gr rollers. My belt was not slipping but when it first took off it was fine the went to a bog then pulled on up with a little bogging. Then went to a ZTR 1000 spring thats where Iam at with the 7.2 rollers. I need a spring pound tester because I have several different makes of springs.
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Post by 2strokd on Aug 18, 2011 9:05:00 GMT -5
ZTR seems to make some awful stiff ones! I know they are stainless. I got one when i ordered my OverRange (you get to choose what spring you want when you buy it) and it was too still for me.
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Post by reveeen on Aug 20, 2011 13:15:23 GMT -5
Couldn't you just compensate by going with heavier roller weights to counteract that? I tried that with 7.2 gr. its close and it takes off good add top speed is there but it doesnt pull as strong still reving a little high. belt slippage on your variator (black marks). Athena spring with a Molossi torsion controler 6gr rollers. My belt was not slipping but when it first took off it was fine the went to a bog then pulled on up with a little bogging. Then went to a ZTR 1000 spring thats where Iam at with the 7.2 rollers. I need a spring pound tester because I have several different makes of springs. I too got "suckered", bought into the Athena variator kit, net gain "0". The unopened kit I got here for my Zuma had a toeque spring in it the was binding two ways, inside, and outside, (probably the cause of that "bog" you refer to) I ended up polishing my rear pulley (and hub) in a lathe to stop it binding. (I had tried to buy other springs, from different manufacturers, but they were binding too, (the perils of a pre-bug Zuma?). Currently I am using the entire Athena kit with 4.5g rollers, and it seems to be working about as good as the OEM Yamaha/with 3.5g rollers (lighter torque spring).....it does work smoother though......... about as smoothly as $60 blew out of my wallet. The only way I can *think* of to test springs is to measure the free length, somehow balance 20 lbs on the spring, then measure the deflection. 7.2g rollers on a 2 cycle, no matter how strong the torque spring is "out to lunch", you have something wrong going on there. |
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Post by 1quikvento on Sept 3, 2011 7:10:47 GMT -5
I just bought a stage 6 torque spring off someone and when I got it, all it says is "soft". So should I assume that means 1000? since ive only saw 1000,1500,and 2000 spring rates. And is the softest usually stiffer than stock? My belt isnt slipping but Im trying to get my revs up a lil. Anyone have experience with the stage 6 ** tranny stuff?
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Post by 2strokd on Sept 3, 2011 7:22:30 GMT -5
What color is it? I would guess it to be a softy but then again unless your experiencing belt slip, or your RPM,s are just diving(dropping) hard on accel then ide leave it in. You dont want to go too still on any of your CVT springs trust me... You will loose some of the CVT,s abilities if so (top-speed).
Try lighter weights before anything else and see if that helps.? Too tight of torque spring=never fully shifted belt.
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Post by 1quikvento on Sept 3, 2011 11:53:26 GMT -5
it is black. and only says soft but I thought it would give me a spring rate. I compared it with my stock spring and the stock spring feels stiffer but i cant quite tell. I put the stage 6 one in a few minutes ago and I honestly cant fell much of a difference if any at all. After i get that initial jump from the sliders my rpms do fall rather low compared to how nicely it revs when i take off. take off is beautiful but from takes awile to get to 40 from 15mph or so. once i get to about 41-42mph my powerband picks back up and it shoots to 49.5 mph which is my average cruise speed now.
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