My Super 9 AC Build

[lbo]

UPDATE: ~600KM's later

I think it is pretty much dialed in and very pleased with this scooter. Playing with jets, slide needles, needle positions occupied the bulk of trial and error to find the right combinations.

Some observations. I have 7gm Dr. Pulley sliders and got a new set of 6.5gm rollers. Acceleration seemed to be the same with both sets but I noticed a big advantage with the sliders over the rollers. When coasting and then hitting the gas again the sliders put the RPMS right where it should be.......... at all speeds. No matter how slow or fast I am going I hit the throttle and the RPM's are there. The new rollers not so much, once in a while it willslightly lag or seem not to "downshift" like the sliders and be in a lower RPM range. Maybe it has something to do with the weights I am using but I doubt it, the contra spring was upgraded a while back.

The engine and my Areche carb likes a 25PJ, 95MJ, the S1 needle on the top (lean) clip position. I got a top speed of 57MPH with a 90MJ but that ran slightly lean. With the 95MJ it will hit ~54(GPS verified) on a regular basis, plenty fast enough for me. The biggest challange was getting the correct PJ and needle dialed in. I am still running the NEXT R Tecnigas pipe and never did get an RS-II. Seems as though the RS-II is the only pipe for the 70 kit on a Kymco, I layed down some more black BBQ Grill paint and it will work for the time being.

The scooter runs great, pulls hard from a stop up until 50 (indicated) and then slowly go to the M, then the P, and touches the H on my speedo. With the sliders I have no hesitation and will stay in it's powerband whenever I hit the gas. Don't have a tach anymore (had a tiny tach) and would guess it's turning 8,500-9,500 and if I let it run WOT closer to 10.5. I think the NEXT-R pipe holds it back and the RS-II would be better suited, not getting it because I really don't want a chrome exhaust.

Just thought to share, thanks to all those who provided help and insight. Very happy with how it turned out.

[90GTVert]

Sounds like it's doing well and running strong to me. For daily riding/practical purposes, you probably wouldn't gain much from the other pipe anyhow so I wouldn't sweat it. Not that you couldn't pick up a little power at the top of your rev range, but if you aren't maxxed out all the time and wishing it were faster you'd probably be happier with the money than the pipe. :2cents:

[lbo]

Yeah I noticed I hardly run WOT anymore, seems like at 1/2 throttle is good for cruising especially in the bus lane on Coastal Highway.

I am a little confused on plug chops and how to read them. I have heard both; look at the porcelin insulator and others say don't look at the insulator look at the base of the insulator deep inside the plug. I have also read how to tell if the plug is too hot or too cold by where the color changes on the strap of the plug. Same link says to ignore the color of the insulator all together!?!?!? What?

I like to see the tan color of the insulator, and ignore the outside base around the bottom of the plug, that has been and always will be black to me........ never seen anything but.

Anyway, here is that link: www.empirenet.com/pkelley2/sparkplugreading.html

Here are a couple pics of the plug, any feedback appreciated. (I think it looks good)

[90GTVert]

I'm still confused about other people's methods of plug reading. Much like you, I find a lot of conflicting info. I screw around with this stuff so much I just kinda took what I learned from some articles that seems to work for me and go with that. I might technically be wrong according to some, but it has been working for me.

I have 2 ways of checking plugs. The first one is trying to read the mixture ring as shown in the link below. That's for WOT and short passes. I try to do nothing but WOT when doing this.

49ccscoot.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=gentech&action=display&thread=1727

The next way (and I have a few pics, but I've somehow never got around to writing anything up) is a long term reading. More of a checkup after a long ride or a a lot of miles. For that, I just look for a caramel color on the insulator and usually a dark ring. I know that hotter plugs are supposed to keep the insulator clean, but I feel like that applies more to 4Ts. The plug should be hot enough to keep the insulator free of oil residue and such, but from what I've seen it still changes color. Maybe I just never run hot enough plugs? I look for a caramel color on a long term plug chop.

As long as something's not giving me too much trouble, I tend to forget the plug reading other than a checkup here and there lately. Tune via RPM and MPH and overall feel.

For part throttle stuff, pretty much just by feel as well unless I'm lost. Then I'll look at a plug part throttle and I'm usually just trying to see if it's wet or dry to tell me which way I'm way off.

When it all comes down to it, I think if your scooter is starting and running well and not seizing or having issues with detonation and seeing speeds appropriate to your setup, you're doing it right.