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Post by repherence2 on Jan 20, 2020 10:51:15 GMT -5
some parts and modifications  Koso fan shroud with the chrome fan strainer removed.  unwrapped exhaust header for the Arrow exhaust.  large boot mounted to carb.  stock DD50 airbox with carb boot removed. started opening it up with a Dremel.  DD50 airbox mocked up with the large carb boot. need to get a 1-7/8" hole saw to make the hole in the DD50 airbox nice.  the outer cover of the DD50 fan shroud did not allow the Arrow pipe to bolt up nicely. the outer cover was touching the pipe.  Takegawa rear brake arm. got it at 808 Cycles for a deal. the arm was priced at $35. he sold me the whole assembly for $35 that day. ...the Treasure Hunt... |
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 20, 2020 11:01:32 GMT -5
...more gatherings...  2 sets 105mm stainless steel stud kit $14 each SEF ramp plate $16 2 DIO clutch nuts $3 each Chrome fan scoop $15 TTO water temp sensor $50  pink Koso cooling fan $30 ** 105mm Stainless stud kit and SEF ramp plate ** reserved for Oldgeek.  |
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 20, 2020 11:19:53 GMT -5
I took off the chrome strainer for the Koso fan shroud. mocked up the chrome air scoop. I would have to grind down the 2 mounting points for the fan strainer. I don't really feel like doing that to this nice fan cover.
my alternate plan is to buy a different fan shroud, might just end up going with the chrome fan shroud to go with the chrome air scoop. just make it all Flashy. Or maybe will just go with the fake carbon shroud, will just have the see what is in stock on the day I go back to 808 Cycles to buy stuff.
in the meantime, I am modifying the stock airbox. I bought a rubber boot that fits the mouth of a 28mm OKO. I am in the process of fitting the boot to the stock airbox. I really just wanted to run it with the 1.5" velocity stack, but that would be LOUD. I am going to Quiet and Fast on this engine build. the local laws have changed recently because they are trying to crackdown on "loud mopeds".
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Post by oldgeek on Jan 20, 2020 15:55:38 GMT -5
Looking good! I would like to find one of the SYM motors around here, they look to flow a little better than my Kymco stuff. I noticed you picked up a water temp sensor, you have a change of plans or is that for a future endeavor?
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Post by Zino on Jan 20, 2020 17:26:36 GMT -5
Nice work I will keep watching this come together  |
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Post by SMALL CC TEK on Jan 20, 2020 18:51:17 GMT -5
I love the DD50 ! I was stupid and never picked one up for myself when we sold them ! Nice build
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 21, 2020 10:06:42 GMT -5
Looking good! I would like to find one of the SYM motors around here, they look to flow a little better than my Kymco stuff. I noticed you picked up a water temp sensor, you have a change of plans or is that for a future endeavor? I bought the water temp sensor for fun and because it was in stock at the shop. 808 Cycles moves so much product tthat i realized that if you dont buy it when you see it in the store, it wll be gone the next time and you wont see it stocked for months. The water temp sensor is basically for mock up purposes for now. I would like to build a Taida water cooled stroker later. I see the bores and cranks on my local Craigslist all the time. Im considering (a) 50mm bore x 50mm crank or (b) 52.5mm bore x 52.6mm crank. --water cooled "square bore" set up, Taida Bore and Taida Crank. Oldgeek, 808 Cycles has radiators for $140. They are approximately 6" wide 10" tall. He also stocks MHR cranks for $200. I told him about the crank issues experienced by forum members with the Malossi cranks. He has not heard of any such problems locally. If you want/need the water temp sensor, let me know. I can send you the one i have, no problems. I already got the 105mm stud kit for you...and one bonus SEF ramp plate. PM me your address.  |
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Post by jackrides on Jan 21, 2020 12:43:47 GMT -5
For what it's worth, I read somewhere that wrapping a 2T header can cause the fresh charge reflected back into the cylinder to be overheated. But if that's the only way to not melt the shroud, so be it.
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 21, 2020 20:17:41 GMT -5
For what it's worth, I read somewhere that wrapping a 2T header can cause the fresh charge reflected back into the cylinder to be overheated. But if that's the only way to not melt the shroud, so be it. I read that too. The flange/header section coming off the bore is not wrapped. I tried to leave 1 bore volume unwrapped. The pipe wrap starts at the slip-fit portion of the pipe. Header is exposed to ambient air. |
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 22, 2020 0:18:28 GMT -5
finished up the air box modification. installed the large intake boot with Shoe Goo. I was looking for a hole saw that was 1-7/8" but it was $11.99. I found a kit from SKILL with several sizes of small hole saws with an arbor for $6.49. it did not have a 1-7/8" hole saw. I used the 1-3/4" hole saw and it turned out perfectly snug.  the exhaust header and the Arrow pipe   the other side  stock SYM DD50 air box. 28mm OKO. CT Black intake manifold. |
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Post by 808ministroke on Feb 18, 2020 7:19:51 GMT -5
What you got planned for the cvt any up gears planning??? Like it so far so good
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Post by repherence2 on Feb 19, 2020 21:08:07 GMT -5
What you got planned for the cvt any up gears planning??? Like it so far so good No real plans. The gear case leaks oil. I got a new gasket from 808Cycles but i have not opened the gearbox yet. I want to open it up and count the gear teeth to verify the gear ratio first. From there i will decide on what gear ratio i want. I read that SYM gear ratio is different from the DIO/Elite. What size carb are you running? What size carb did you want the venturi divider for? I only have a 28mm OKO or a 24mm CP to mock up with. So, those are your 2 options. The CP carb would take me longer to make the plate because i dont have a template made for it and the carb mouth on the CP has multiple contours. If it is for a large OKO, i already have the prototype divider to use as a template. |
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Post by 808ministroke on Feb 21, 2020 0:18:30 GMT -5
Yes infact I was going to try it ona 28 oko or pwk same size either way, been curious about the differences.... anyway yes the Honda and dd50 gears have different teeth seen a conversion chart at glens cycles. By the sound of it gears are easier to swap out on these types or just out here it seems a lot of af18 havegearing I seen as tall as6.5 to 1 ! The only rexy I have with upgears is my h20 lc case and the input shaft has horizontal play of like. A millimeter and oil leaks very slowly from that gasket at the input shaft. I was told they are by stage 6 but who knows what I do know is they are 9:1 instead of the stock ratio of 12:1 . I asked George about swapping gears and which one I need to purchase he said you can go as high as 10:1 with just swapping the secondary to Athena forget teeth count sorry , but to get higher than 10:1 you have to swap. Both primary and secondary.
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Post by ray808 on Oct 24, 2020 5:31:36 GMT -5
bought some parts oil pump plug clutch nut wrench stock SYM dd50 drive belt tuning weight set 105mm stud kit KOSO fan shroud rubber carb boot to adapt big carb to airbox   What plug you running with the corsa kit? |
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Post by repherence2 on Dec 26, 2020 12:43:37 GMT -5
What plug you running with the corsa kit? ray808, it's not a Corsa.
it's a Malossi MHR replica. the owner of Qwik Fix Garage threw in a NGK B8HS plug when i bought the bore kit and crank from him. a part of me wishes that i should have built:
1. a Corsa ($280 Oahu CL) + TWH full counter Ministroker crank ($160 Oahu CL)
with a ministroker Scorpion pipe (Scooter Alley Oahu $300)
= $740 of 75cc Corsa Madness
2. a TWH 54mm bore ($180 Oahu CL) + TWH 52.4mm crank ($150 Oahu CL) with a full stroker Scorpion pipe (Scooter Alley Oahu $400) = $730 of 120cc Stroker Insanity.
i just need to get me 2 more DD50 blocks. lol
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