New ETON Matrix 50 - Sleeper Build?

[dexameth]

May 8, 2020 15:10:41 GMT -5 Zino said:

Is that a Long Case Minarelli.
I found the same thing when I went to a larger pulley in the back My clutch was engaging sooner.
My AHA moment was that
My tach only keeps track of how fast the front pulley is turning.
When I change the Gear ratio between the 2 pulleys .
I am spinning the rear pulley at a different speed in the back compared to the front so the clutch engagement changes .

Yup long case. But, going larger in the back is slower turning (think of a bicycle cassette). What's happening in my case is the belt is wider, making it rest higher in the variator at all times and that is spinning the clutch faster. I could tell the first time I fired it up and blipped the throttle, it was not right. Still, I tried it and anyone could put lots of miles on this setup but I want that launch back so I just finished installing the 788 haha

[dexameth]

So yesterday I installed a new tire, a 3.00x12 knobby stretched onto a 3.50x12 rim! Left the new tire in the Florida sun while I dismounted the old tire. Semi inflated the tube, stuffed it in the tread and I got it mounted by hand! Just worked the bead around and it popped right on.






I absolutely love the look. It handles good in the corners, so far... not going too hardcore but it doesn't feel, well, off. It did have some crazy off-balance wobble though. It was instantly noticeable. Rode to work and back and almost shook my phone off my dash, which I have velcro'd to the dash with some super strong 3M velcro tape.

Ended up stopping at Harbor Freight and picked up some stick on wheel weights. 7oz each, and lots of them for 8 bucks. Got zip ties too. When I got home I just leaned the scoot against the wall and put a car jack under the belly, propping up the front tire. Pulled off the brake caliper too.

Gave it a couple spins, found the heavy spot, and started adding weights. I kept adding more and more, without seeing any change. Eventually added an entire strip and it's almost perfect.





I was shocked to see it need this much, but remember there's a tube and tube type tire on a tubeless rim... probably not the best balance. But, left off for a test drive and I cannot stress enough how much better this is. I have zero wobble/shaking from the front now, super smooth all the way to top speed. Holy crap, I need to figure out how to do the back wheel now and get this perfect.

[dexameth]

[aeroxbud]

Did you like up the valve up with the mark on the tire? This can make quite a difference.

[dexameth]

May 11, 2020 20:37:24 GMT -5 aeroxbud said:

Did you like up the valve up with the mark on the tire? This can make quite a difference.

There was no mark on this tire... it was pulled from a defective dirt bike rim.

[aeroxbud]

That's most likely why it's needed so much weight.
Cool looking tires though.

[Tanuki]

Knobby looks great!

[dexameth]

So yesterday I picked up a Bando 788x18.1x28 belt because the travel in the variator is just, well, not there. I find it crazy that I'm only getting 50-60% travel yet I can still pull 55mph; this led me to getting a wider belt. I know the pulleys are designed for the 16.5-17mm wide belts, but this variator is definitely designed for 17-18mm wide belts after test fitting.

I installed 3 Naraku 1mm spacers and the stock spacer with the variator boss - the most I could do and still have splines for the kickstart gear to grab. Here are some pictures of the belt installed and fired for a few seconds to settle the belt in.







If you look closely at the picture with the belt in the variator - you can see the wear marks halfway up the pulleys from the previous belt. I really need to get a new digital caliper so I can get precise readings, but the old 788x17 Continental belt looked about 2mm thinner than this Bando 788x18.1, and I still had 2 spacers to remove in the variator which I feel if I did I would get more travel back.

Rode into work this morning with the Bando belt installed, and it felt great. I went back to 5.5g sliders and they feel a little heavy. Engaging and taking off 7800 then it'll slowly ramp up to 9600 max when tucked. Feel like smoother gear-changing, kinda... I don't know just feels "smoother".

Tonight I'll lower the weights and see how it feels, and test it against the old belt with no spacers on the variator. This current setup will not allow wheelies at all ): and that's just not gonna be okay. Maybe just lighter sliders...

[dexameth]

...if I had an overrange pulley set paired with the overrange belt I have - I bet I could wheelie again.

Gotta figure out what's binding when I try to pair a 139QMB pulley set to a 107mm Minarelli bell. I can't see any visible markings on either the bell nor the pulley so I'm confused. The pulleys fit the clutch shaft great, bearings are correct and length seems correct. I saw Brent's video where he opened up the inside of the pulley bearing area but I don't quite think that's where mine is binding.

EDIT: I have never tried the larger clutch/bell setup with the 139QMB pulley - trying to go with less rotational mass too but the number 1 goal is to have the overrange pulleys so I guess that's something I could try.

[dexameth]

I really, really dislike this swinging engine mount system. It's really messing up my wheelies! I get the front up and when I start blipping the throttle the engine bucks, and it messes with me. Also, when sitting and I blip the throttle the engine wants to lift itself before I even take off.

Has anyone ever did a direct-mount to the frame with their Eton? It looks like I could use the mounting position for the engine mount bracket in the frame and just use a longer bolt with some spacers to fit in the wider section. Not a big deal, but I just don't like it.

[SMALL CC TEK]

Dex how heavy is that tire ? I am saying just compared to a street 300/12

?

[dexameth]

May 15, 2020 16:55:06 GMT -5 SMALL CC TEK said:

Dex how heavy is that tire ? I am saying just compared to a street 300/12

?

The new front knobby? It's super light compared to a standard tubeless, but I did install it with a tube but I feel the entire setup is still lighter.

The back 130/80-12 I would say is heavier than stock. It's, husky, I guess.

[dexameth]

So the past couple days Maddy has been hard starting and idling even worse and her low-end was horrible.

Obvious reed issue, so I pulled it off and found the bottom corner starting to chip and come apart:



I had one good Polini reed pedal left and installed it since the opposite side pedal was fine. Fired up and felt crispier right away.

I really need to get that reed spacer, so I decided to make one myself. Rotary tool against the stock intake - made the mistake at trying that indoors. Smelled like burnt rubber for an hour or so, whoops! While outside I had the cutting disc brake on me, 2 times, before I even used it. On the second time I flinched and dropped the cheap rotary and it bent the tip, killing it. Cheap 20 dollar rotary, I'll get another. I really feel like I could cut the stock intake into a useable spacer.

That all happened last night. This morning she kick starts instantly, has more pull and idles better. Yay! I get 11 of the 13 miles to work, riding at 45mph and she acts like the spark plug fouled out a little, then came back. 5 seconds later it's like I hard-seized it. Just stalled out and the CVT being engaged was like someone hitting the brakes - typical soft seize scenario. Pull over and she won't kick. Locked right up. WTF?! Luckily at this point I'm right around 2 miles or less to work so I push it the rest of the way.

Looks like that Naraku 47mm kit has my name all over it. I don't even know what happened yet, but I'm sure the aluminum cylinder is toast after this mishap. My best guess is a wrist pin clip came out and jammed in the transfer port/piston head. If I can get that cylinder installed today, I still have a 13 mile ride home - that's a good break in ride, right??

haha we'll see....

[dexameth]

Oh yeah, I also investigated my CVT a little more last night. Seems like that little weld-lip in the clutch pulleys stops the belt from dropping all the way and also in turn from climbing up the variator. I took the torque spring out, and also the rollers, then rotated the belt by hand while pulling on the variator to get "max travel"



Here's the best shot I could get of the belt at it's deepest point - if the belt could drop even further, the pulleys wouldn't open up because they are pretty much touching the clutch shoes.



I really wanna get a different pulley set for this setup. Seems like the typical 139QMB would work great - bearings don't need swapping; there's some weird binding with the 107mm clutch bell that I cannot figure out though, and the 112mm setup won't work with the 139QMB spring... so I need to use the Minarelli 107mm shoes and bell - once I figure out the binding.

First the cylinder, then the CVT.

[dexameth]

Popped the engine apart on lunch, head came off and this hit the floor:




Pulled exhaust off, and then removed the cylinder...





Freakin' DANG.

I don't even know what would have caused this... but the damage is done. Cylinder gave a good few months of fun, time to move on and I think I'm gonna go the Naraku route. Only thing, this head is toast. I didn't get a picture of it, but it's beat up pretty bad. I have a stock head that has a good taper to the squish band but I also have the stroker crank in there. I'm gonna have to get the compression a little lower to run that setup I'm thinking. I could spend more and go Athena Ceramic, I don't know....