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Post by christopher on Oct 20, 2019 19:15:29 GMT -5
install went fine except for a few items. My oil injection line won't reach the other side of the carburetor and no vacuum line. Looks like this intake would solve both issues. Is oil injection further down versus into the carburetor any less efficient or better? I can get to the oil pump I have a puller, order some hose and extend it to the carburetor nipple. I don't want to premix unless I have to. I would still need a vacuum port for fuel. 
www.partsforscooters.com/169-125_Minarelli_CF_IntakeAnother quicker option would be to get a couple of nipples from an auto parts store drill a couple of holes at the base and ETC them in. |
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Post by chehystpewpur on Oct 20, 2019 20:05:25 GMT -5
if oil injecting you would be best to have it go into the carb. it will mix with the fuel the best and not have to worry about anything weird happening like the oil staying liquid and not lubricating things. say maybe at low rpms when the motor isnt creating much air velocity or with it not being smack dab even in the air flow it could potentially go past the crank bearings and straight into the cylinder. the roods may help sling the oil around some if it wasnt mixing with the air/fuel charge well but i wouldnt rely on that. if it was me id take this as an excuse to ditch the pump and premix and just block the existing oil injections lines off and pull the pump. or you could trim back the cuttent hose some and add an extension till you can run a new line but you would be creating a potential for leaks in the future. or a possible restriction. if adding an extension only do it temporarily and use a brass or copper barb style fitting to ensure it wont collapse or come off easily. bleed the pump well afterwards and keep an eye on everything to make sure no issues pop up.
if not opposed to premix and you just dont want to carry around an oil bottle everywhere you could put a shutoff valve on ur current oil injection bottle and run a longer hose to an easy to reach spot and carry a small bottle for measuring oil amounts. u can get a 60 ml plastic bottle with a lid from most vape shops for nothing and it would measure out about 2 oz of oil easily. or get a 120ml bottle and have about 4 oz put a half way and 1/4 way line and easily measure oil out when you stop and get fuel without getting dirty. oil gets low in storage tank top off when convenient and if you have low oil indicator on your cluster you know when its time to get more. i just keep a quart of oil under the seat and pour it in when im getting fuel. i keep it in a plastic bag so it doesnt get messy in there but eventually it ends up all over the bottle and some people dont like that.
just some thoughts. i will say i use pretty much the same intake but under the hoca name before it changed. i like the larger reed block and the ease of using a snall or large carb by changing the intake boot but they wear out and crack quickly and easily. so order some spares or find a similarly sized piece of neoprene rubber hose. ive seen it that large before so its not impossible to find. but some regular ole radiator hose has held up fine for my air filter which gets soaked in gas for much longer than the boots ive had this far. ive really been considering getting some rad hose and cutting a small section of it to remount my carb as bad as it sounds. but im on the final days of my 3rd boot now for this intake and still the same piece of filter hose. whoda thunk. ive had the smallest line on the intake capped with a piece of small hose with a screw in it for years and use the larger one for vacuum going to the fuel petcock. may be ditching the petcock as its very old and would much rather have a larger fuel supply as my fuel line doesnt stay 100% full on long wide open runs. its never ran out but i dont like seeing air in the fuel filter it makes me worry someday it will run its self out of fuel or the petcock just doesnt supply enough fuel. aside from my minor complaint about the intake boot its a solid intake thats larger than stock and metal so it wont break over time.
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Post by christopher on Oct 21, 2019 5:26:21 GMT -5
Ordered intake and hose from parts for scooters, hoping the hose listed as 2mm oil line is correct. Also ordered the intake, the others from companies such as stage6 with hoses have a flange which makes the connection longer from what I read and the factory air box not longer fits.
What do you mean by larger reed block? I've only seen one reed block, the one in my scooter now.
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Post by chehystpewpur on Oct 21, 2019 15:20:49 GMT -5
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Post by christopher on Oct 21, 2019 17:09:00 GMT -5
www.scootertuning.ca/en/intakes-reed-valves/4029-reed-valve-stage6-vforce3.htmlI just saw yesterday a person can get varying thicknesses of reeds in the same material. I find this VForce 3 interesting with 8 pedals. From what I’ve read the idea is they don’t have to open as far so they can close faster. If 8 are that much better why aren’t more people using it? I think the setups with a smaller reed over a bigger reed are interesting with the smaller reed opening at lower rpm or vacuum, then the bigger opening at higher vacuums. Kind of like the old vacuum secondary Holley carburetors.
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Post by chehystpewpur on Oct 21, 2019 19:52:30 GMT -5
price is a main factor in why people dont use more reeds. another big factor is its double the things to go wrong. if your reeds chip crack or break you have a no start/no run scenario and with 2 times as many places to chip or break you have 2 times the things that can go wrong and will go wrong at some point. then its double the price to replace reeds and at one time since ive had my bike you could pretty much only get reeds that fit the reed block from the manufacturer so they could charge whatever. there are more parts now so atleast reeds are pretty standard sizes and its easier to get the ones you need but they can still be costly if your on a budget.
also your somewhat right on the vacuum thing but just to clarify a motor at wot (wide open throttle) should not create vacuum it would be zero or as close to it as possible as it will have an open line to atmospheric pressure. idle would be where they make the most vacuum. the larger reeds would open due to air volume on a staggered set most likely. and vacuum most likely held the secondaries closed on the old holleys and when vacuum was gone it would allow them to open when the throttle was pressed and rpms rose. or the carb has a separate circuit in it that pulls on the secondaries when air starts rushing past it similar to the venturi effect that makes carbs operate. im not a big holley fan so i cant say for certain on that one.
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Post by pinkscoot on Oct 22, 2019 9:26:34 GMT -5
Most carb oil inputs have a check valve so that the oil tank doesn't't just drain into the carb or in your case the intake. If you go to injecting oil right into the intake be sure you have a check valve. Or you could get a longer hose and go straight into the carb.
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Post by repherence2 on Oct 22, 2019 10:06:49 GMT -5
I run that intake. vacuum on the big nipple, closest to rubber boot. oil injection on smaller nipple closest to flange. I run stock injection pump. no additional oil to gas tank. my oil injection line does not have a check valve. when the bike sits for a long time, oil leaks by and into the crankcase. massive smoke screen upon start up when that happens.
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Post by christopher on Oct 22, 2019 16:04:54 GMT -5
Most carb oil inputs have a check valve so that the oil tank doesn't't just drain into the carb or in your case the intake. If you go to injecting oil right into the intake be sure you have a check valve. Or you could get a longer hose and go straight into the carb. Good to know about the check valve, I ordered longer hose and intake from parts for scooters. |
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Post by christopher on Oct 25, 2019 14:31:23 GMT -5
Need to find a reducing boot for my carburetor what came with the SSPG is way to big. Really cranked on the clamp to get it to shrink down and tighten, looks like a step down now. The larger reed block wont fit my case, as is. The screws that hold the reeds are closer to the base of the block and hit on the case edge. The original reed block has the screws moved closer the the crankshaft or tip of the block and clears the lip. Are the bigger reeds hard to find? What do I need to look for to replace what came with the SSPG reed block with carbon fiber reeds? Want The spring metal reinforcement out of there holding the reed closed out of there. The screws in this picture that hold the reeds on are what's getting in the way. The block on the left has the larger reeds, notice how close the screws are to the base. Looking at the block on the right the screws are closer to the tip, the allows the screw to sit below the lip which is sandwiched between the reed base and the screws. I had to take the SSPG reed block apart to figure out what was happening.  This is the lip that the screws are hitting.  a look at the blocks end to end.  rubber boot is where the oring is located.  Dellorto carburetor od.  . Original block width  SSPG block width. 
SSPG reed width  . Factory reed width. 
SSPG reed block opening.  SSPG reed block openin  |
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Post by aeroxbud on Oct 26, 2019 12:10:32 GMT -5
Would replacing the screws with button head screws help any? Or is it way off fitting?
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Post by christopher on Oct 26, 2019 13:38:12 GMT -5
When I removed the screws to look, I don’t think a low head would work. I would need to install a spacer between the case and the reed body. Not going to cut up my working reed body to make a spacer. Would have to buy a spacer or get ahold of a used reed body to cut up. If I’m going to have to find a used body and cut it up, might as well buy a spacer.
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Post by chehystpewpur on Oct 26, 2019 16:59:28 GMT -5
if you have a dremel you could always open up the case slightly. stuff a rag down the hole to catch shavings and give a little love to it. ik the case im currently using is slightly smaller than my old case is and i have to wiggle my larger reed block in slightly to get it to go in. the metal reed stops will catch if i go straight in but if i put one side in first it goes right in.
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Post by 190mech on Oct 26, 2019 18:46:50 GMT -5
What about a counter sunk/flush head screw and a dab of loctite?You'd need to get the proper size screw and countersink the reed stop,but that'd get it waay closer...  |
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