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Post by FrankenMech on Feb 11, 2020 23:03:47 GMT -5
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Post by jackrides on Feb 11, 2020 23:36:18 GMT -5
Just blow dry it. Hairdryer best, or you could get personal.
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Post by jloi on Feb 12, 2020 8:40:08 GMT -5
if I take all the grease out of it and rinse it with brakleen so it's sparkling new then how do I get the grease back in - properly ?
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Post by 2stroked on Feb 12, 2020 14:41:51 GMT -5
if I take all the grease out of it and rinse it with brakleen so it's sparkling new then how do I get the grease back in - properly ? You get nasty with it. Hand full if grease, squeeze and rub as much as it will hold. You'll know when its greased, because it won't squeeze in, without squeezing out. Its possible to pack it full like it is, already mounted. It just takes more time, more mess, and more patience. You know how you would pack it if it were off the stem, so do the same thing, but on the stem. See what I mean? If you don't clean it, you run the risk of grit, or gunk getting in there and eating the bearings. Clean it off, and put in the work. Doesn't matter how clean you THINK the bearing is, there very well could be grit, or whatever in there. Brake Kleen will rinse the crap off. Then you use your fingers, and good grease to pack it back up. Good luck, post pictures so someone else can be helped with this later on.
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Post by jloi on Feb 12, 2020 15:16:48 GMT -5
Ok , thanks. I just didn't think. That I would be able to get a good job Packing it with it on. But If you say I can. Then I'll do it. I don't mind doing the work. I just want to get this thing back on the road.
I'm seriously going to try my idea. With putting grease in a big baggy
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Post by FrankenMech on Feb 12, 2020 18:41:02 GMT -5
A baggy is not necessary.
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Post by jloi on Feb 14, 2020 21:46:59 GMT -5
ooh Jack, you just tickle me all over!
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Post by jloi on Feb 14, 2020 22:31:54 GMT -5
Update on STEM- took the wheel off the forks to reduce the weight when putting it back on the triple tree - maybe I won't trash the new bolts and threads. I think they didn't look good first time I had the forks off and replaced them - way back. so maybe it wasn't me originally. Well the heli coil kit came today- earlier than expected. I took a bunch of measurements cause at first I thought I was gonna be just drilling the holes out and putting new bolts in with washers and nuts; but washers won't even fit on the backside of the triple tree much less nuts ; plus they didn't have , couldn't get 55mm bolts at fastenal so I got 60's and the shoulder is too long so I went ahead and tapped the first hole . went well enough . I did order a T handle for the tap cause the vise grip needlenose spread the leverage out to the side and the deeper I went the more wobble/play I got. I don't think it'll do any harm tho on the one bolt. the coil will make up for it . so I don't need the measurements. brakleen wouldn't really touch the grease so I got some gas. finished it up with brakleen tho. and all the other stem parts. so I got the 1st coil in . T handle will be here Sun. hopefully I can get the other3 in straight with no problems. I'm kinda worried about the portion of the hole where the shoulder of the bolt goes since it is now larger diameter than it was - will it be prone to racking/play/sloppiness from vibration etc. ? thanks everybody for your input. now that I got a coil in and it seems like it'll work ok, I've calmed down some and won't be killing -someone/anyone - after all.
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Post by jloi on Feb 14, 2020 22:41:19 GMT -5
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Post by jloi on Feb 15, 2020 15:36:55 GMT -5
I hope somebody see's this by tomorrow afternoon so I can keep going when the T handle gets here. Question - will it be ok to replace the 4 shoulder bolts (OEM) for the triple tree with fully threaded bolts into the new heli coils? the only correct length bolts with a shoulder that I've found aren't of good quality/strength steel . the silver ones in the pic are 10.9 JH which I think ? are good quality and strong . ? the other bolt with the nut is the one to hold the handlebar in the column and I want to replace that too ; again with a fully threaded bolt. all I can find in 10-1.25 threads the smaller bolts with washers hold the caliper to the disc rotor. I lost one of the washers and have to replace them with some that are wider . they're 8 mm. am I being too picky to worry about this kind of stuff? the washers. or is it maybe critical to replace with as much of the same as possible ?
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Rune 75
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 441
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Post by Rune 75 on Feb 15, 2020 18:02:37 GMT -5
You are being a bit picky yes. 10.9 bolts are more than strong enough. I always go with 8.8
Everything looks great.
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Post by FrankenMech on Feb 15, 2020 21:14:05 GMT -5
Here is a comparison chart:
The thick shank on the steering bolt is important when torsional strength is required.
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Post by jloi on Feb 15, 2020 22:48:14 GMT -5
does anyone know the amount of ft./lbs torque or inch pounds? for the pinch bolts? or where I might find info for that . for a 150 . I've looked and don't turn anything up . google, you tube , nothing .
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Rune 75
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 441
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Post by Rune 75 on Feb 16, 2020 4:06:14 GMT -5
does anyone know the amount of ft./lbs torque or inch pounds? for the pinch bolts? or where I might find info for that . for a 150 . I've looked and don't turn anything up . google, you tube , nothing . Just use a regular/standard torque setting. 6mm/12nm 8mm/25nm 10mm/40-50nm
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Post by jloi on Feb 16, 2020 17:08:03 GMT -5
ok, well this came today - it's a piece of shit. took about 20 min. to figure out it won't stay tight on the tap. it's on the way back. No worries, I'll just go to HF. and get this- OK, well I got 1 hole out of it. I'm taking it back for exchange right now .hopefully I can get 1 1/2 holes out of the next handle. if not I guess just go to vise grips again .
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