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Post by scootandboot on Mar 7, 2020 18:25:50 GMT -5
So I've spent a good deal of time around a multi-meter this post will be a work in progress as it comes to me I'll throw it in here.
General tips
Continuity is your friend. Got a 3 wires going to a switch? Put your multi meter on continuity (the one that beeps at you it's simpler). If you don't have it resistance will tell you enough. Connect to the wires and play with the switch and which wire your connected. Hear a beep? You closed the circuit. I'd hope you can see how it goes from there but if you need help post and I'll make a video or something.
Testing fuses continuity is your friend but you could also test voltage across the fuse. Seeing (x) volts dc? probably a bad fuse you should see 0.
As far as reading schematics goes that's a longer post if your having trouble post the schematic and I'll either make a video or break it down using pictures.
Testing bad components depends on the component so just ask for advice here and I'll see what your working with.
Low voltage ac and dc was my specialty for 4 years and something I've been playing with for many years. Hopefully this can be a way I can give back to the community that so far has helped me quite a bit.
Ideas are welcome if you want a tutorial or have a electrical question just ask. I'll be updating this post semi regularly, I'd like to avoid going over things that have been explained before. I'll try to link to those posts if it comes up.
Cheers Everyone
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Post by milly on Mar 19, 2020 12:36:17 GMT -5
Thankyou I may well have something that will I need help with in the near future 😊
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Post by scootandboot on Mar 23, 2020 12:14:07 GMT -5
Voltage Drop Test Voltage drop tests are good for when your diagnosing a semi working circuit. Tried to find a informative but short video.
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Post by scootandboot on Apr 2, 2020 18:21:23 GMT -5
Ohms Law to Diagnose a Circuit Another informative and short video. Just breaks down using a understanding of ohms law and your voltage to make educated guesses about circuits and circuit function.
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Post by mcguest11 on Apr 5, 2020 5:06:26 GMT -5
I am looking for advice, maybe you can help me out. I have a 2010 Daymak Niagara, and I can't find a wiring schematic. Basically I have a scooter that will run and start, but no headlights, tail light or cluster lights. When I check the wires on the stator, I have 18 v and goes higher when the engine revs. When I plug the harness into the bike, I seem to lose the voltage on the other side of the harness and at the regulator/rectifier. And I don't seem to be charging the battery. I have bought and tried a new rectifier, same thing. There are 4 wires on the rectifier, white, green, yellow and red. When I touch the red and yellow together, the lights come on, which tells me that the yellow wire(after checking continuity) is the feed for the lights. The red is going to the battery. Hope this makes some sense. I am thinking there is a wire hooked up wrong somewhere, but not sure. If you want to know anything else, let me know.
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Post by scootandboot on Apr 14, 2020 11:13:51 GMT -5
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Post by ricktheslickster on May 10, 2020 21:16:27 GMT -5
I am looking for advice, maybe you can help me out. I have a 2010 Daymak Niagara, and I can't find a wiring schematic. Basically I have a scooter that will run and start, but no headlights, tail light or cluster lights. When I check the wires on the stator, I have 18 v and goes higher when the engine revs. When I plug the harness into the bike, I seem to lose the voltage on the other side of the harness and at the regulator/rectifier. And I don't seem to be charging the battery. I have bought and tried a new rectifier, same thing. There are 4 wires on the rectifier, white, green, yellow and red. When I touch the red and yellow together, the lights come on, which tells me that the yellow wire(after checking continuity) is the feed for the lights. The red is going to the battery. Hope this makes some sense. I am thinking there is a wire hooked up wrong somewhere, but not sure. If you want to know anything else, let me know. Here's the scoop according to my wiring colors on my Tao Tao in which they usually go along with industry standards. However yours may be different colors. What you want to connect to with your headlight is a wire that only gets hot, or has 12 volts on it, when two conditions are met., 1) when your ignition key is turned on, and 2) when your engine is running. if either switches off you want your headlight to stop glowing, and only glow when both are switched on, ignition and motor. So obviously, the wire path taken will begin in your stator on the yellow wire. coming out of your right hand side of the engine right behind the cooling fan area near your carb. Now my schematic shows that the wire travels through two different switches, but this may have been drawn up back-in-the-day when you could decide to burn the bulb on/off during day time hours, now days that's not a choice, it always burns. The schematic labels the first switch as a "light Switch" But you can replace that with the ignition switch. So it's highly likely you should be able to follow your yellow wire all the way to the back of the ignition switch. It may go other places as well, but you are not concerned about that, you just want to be sure it goes to the rear of the key switch. When it comes out of the ignition switch the wire changes colors from Yellow to blue & white, but yours may be different, if it is, there's two ways you can figure out what color it is, probably the easiest way is to find your high beam switch and see which 3 colors are going/coming to/from it, one of the 3 going/coming from the high beam switch will most likely be followed back to the rear of the ignition switch, that will be the color the wire changed to coming out of the ignition switch. And again it should be Blue & White. the other way is using a volt meter or yes/no indicator lamp to find the wire that goes high, or hot, or shows 12volts only when the ignition is on and engine running. That's your input to the hi-beam switch, now coming out of the hi-beam switch should be two wires, one for hi-beam and the other for low-beam. And the colors are now changed to solid blue and solid white. Up to you to figure out which is high and low beam. but now your on your way home, the only place those two go to is your headlight. (because just about everything else turns on with only the ignition switch turned to the "on" or accessory position, regardless of engine being on). So basically all your other electronics will be using that wire (not the blue and white, not the white nor the blue) they'll be one more wire that will be very common all thru out your wiring harness, and that wire goes high as soon as you turn your key switch to on or acc. as it's Hot 12 volt line. Your horn, blinkers, running tail light, brake light, as well as your instrument cluster, gas sending unit, and any other thing needing power should all power up with just the ignition switch being turned on, so that will be yet another wire coming out of the ignition switch and normally that wire is slid black. And the way you'll know if it's a different color, or the correct "black" color is to look for where this wire goes, it should run back into your harness and eventually connect to many more of the same colored wire then going in all different directions. a certain wire that eventually connects to a shit-ton of the same color wire but goes in all directions in your harness. Just like how your solid green wire connect to a shit-ton of other solid green wires, but it can't be solid green. Anything but that color, since that's your ground which is the other wire all your lights connect to. Whatever color that is, that will be your hot wire that goes to just about every other electrical component as your positive wire. That should correct every and all issues with your power bus. Now back to your rectifier/regulator if you touch your yellow wire to your red wire of course you will power up all the lights because the red wire is coming off the positive batter post and your now connecting your yellow wire to that positive from the battery. but you don't want to do that. And I forgot about the regulator and how that fits into all this. if we don't need to understand anything about the regulator, then I will say don't even confuse yourself with that just follow what I wrote so far and don't take any other paths than what I wrote and you should be good. I'm going to head back and have one more look to be sure I can say that....yes do not worry about your rectifier and DO NOT connect the yellow to the red wire. both of those wires are going to your rectifier and are not to be combined. Just follow my instruction as they are written and you should be able to fix each and every item that requires power on your moped unless I forgot something which I do not think is the case. Let me know how it turns out. |
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Post by ricktheslickster on May 10, 2020 23:26:17 GMT -5
I am looking for advice, maybe you can help me out. I have a 2010 Daymak Niagara, and I can't find a wiring schematic. Basically I have a scooter that will run and start, but no headlights, tail light or cluster lights. When I check the wires on the stator, I have 18 v and goes higher when the engine revs. When I plug the harness into the bike, I seem to lose the voltage on the other side of the harness and at the regulator/rectifier. And I don't seem to be charging the battery. I have bought and tried a new rectifier, same thing. There are 4 wires on the rectifier, white, green, yellow and red. When I touch the red and yellow together, the lights come on, which tells me that the yellow wire(after checking continuity) is the feed for the lights. The red is going to the battery. Hope this makes some sense. I am thinking there is a wire hooked up wrong somewhere, but not sure. If you want to know anything else, let me know. One more thing to mention, every and all devices that need power regardless of path taken should have on one of it's side (assuming all devices have two wires connected to it, one side will be ground (green) and the other side being 12 Volts (Black wire) with the exception of your head light bulb and rear tail light bulb. both of those needs 3 wires total. 1 bring Ground (solid green) the other two at least for the headlight will be blue for one and white for the other to determine high and low beams. to figure out which 3 goes to your tail light, one of the three will be ground (green) one of the other wires for the runing tail light will be brown and the other 12 volt line for your brakes will be green and yellow. every other light will be simply just two wires your ground and your 12 volt line, if you need to know the color just ask. |
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Post by ricktheslickster on May 10, 2020 23:31:59 GMT -5
and here's the schematic to fgure out the colored wires  |
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Post by jackrides on May 11, 2020 13:37:45 GMT -5
Hey Rick, you a teacher? Great explanation!
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Post by FrankenMech on May 18, 2020 9:04:07 GMT -5
That is a good general AC-CDI schematic. Just remember some scoots do not run the headlight power wire from the stator through the key switch, it just runs directly to the headlight switch and regulator.
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Post by cabo50cp on Aug 29, 2020 2:07:43 GMT -5
Was wondering if I could message (or email ) you a few questions. I’ve done the basic trouble shooting and testing and replaced most electrical components at this point. I have some specific questions related to my Lance Cabo 50cc (DC cdi) that I can’t find answers on else where. For instance, my yellow wire from stator is carrying power to lights but also grounded out - is that a problem ? Weird stuff like that.
Story is bike was running perfectly- got stolen and they chopped wires left and right. Been chasing a no spark situation since I found my bike in alley. Any and all help would be so very appreciated
(Codypeluso@gmail.com)
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Post by scooter7878 on Jun 7, 2021 0:56:31 GMT -5
scootandboot voltage drop is a great way of testing and imo one of the most accurate way to diagnose not many ppl really use it. But I'm sure u know but for others the circuit must be loaded while testing for example if ur testing a starter circuit u must test while activating the starter or it wont be accurate. And the more amperage a device is using the drop will be slightly higher allowed
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Post by jloi on Jun 7, 2021 9:11:19 GMT -5
and here's the schematic to fgure out the colored wires do you think there would be much variation between the schematic for the 50cc tao tao and the 150 cc tao tao I was able to follow along with your description in your post - " Here's the scoop according to my wiring colors on my Tao Tao " pretty well. I think that's basically what I have for my 150. I still don't get the new switches but I'm gonna give it another shot now . thanks for posting all that you did . it's like the switches add a new element to the game . also I won't have the kill switch anymore unless I wire my own in , which I def want to do |
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