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Post by darius823 on Mar 19, 2020 12:53:04 GMT -5
I have a gy6 100cc scooter i have motul fully synthetic oil 10w40 is it good for this engine
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Post by SMALL CC TEK on Mar 19, 2020 15:24:05 GMT -5
That is a good choice ! Break it in a bit be for you swap over and you will be all good .
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Post by FrankenMech on Mar 19, 2020 16:31:30 GMT -5
Modern oils are meant for roller cam engines. They don't have enough high pressure lubricants for scoot cams. On the other hand scoot engines don't last long enough to worry about cam wear. Diesel engine oil has high pressure lubricants in it and I believe 4T motorcycle oil is good.
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Post by SMALL CC TEK on Mar 19, 2020 17:38:58 GMT -5
I am the same i use Rotella or Delo . I have not tried the new Rotella gas truck version yet . T5,T6 are awesome
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Post by bullybike on May 27, 2020 18:28:44 GMT -5
Just use STRAIGHT 30. that 10w40 breaks down to a 10 weight at high heat motors like gy6 and runs too thin anyways.
Straight weight dino diesel truck oil stays a uniform molecular size forever. And its cheap.
the sythetic blah blah rest is marketing humbo jumbo
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Post by bullybike on May 27, 2020 18:30:38 GMT -5
PS if live in a colder climate use 20 weight
live in a tropical island consider a 40 weight in summer.
somwhere moderate like Georgia ud want to go with a 20 in winter and a 30 in summer etc
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Post by FrankenMech on May 27, 2020 22:43:07 GMT -5
Just use STRAIGHT 30. that 10w40 breaks down to a 10 weight at high heat motors like gy6 and runs too thin anyways. Straight weight dino diesel truck oil stays a uniform molecular size forever. And its cheap. the sythetic blah blah rest is marketing humbo jumbo Wrong.
10w40 pours like a 10 viscosity oil in cold temperatures but acts like a 40 viscosity oil at high temperatures. It was developed to allow engines to start easier in winter and therefore extended oil change intervals across seasons.
Synthetics and dino oil are two different products.
Dino or synthetic diesel engine oils have high pressure lubricants modern gas car and truck oils have eliminated for pollution reasons. The high pressure lubricants are important for cam and lifter lubrication on some multi-cylinder engines but still help with scoot engine cams and rockers.
Dino and synthetic oils thin out with use as the long chain molecules are broken apart under pressure and heat. The synthetics usually take much longer to thin out, which is why they have long change intervals.
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Post by GrumpyUnk on May 28, 2020 9:44:14 GMT -5
I'd go with whatever Cx rated 15W40 is on sale. RPM Delo, Rotella, Super Tech. But. I would change the oil at shorter intervals than I do with car/truck engines.
The multi-grade oils use Viscosity Improvers. VI's. They are long chain molecules that crunch up when cold, and un-coil when hot. Uncoiled, the provide an increase in the relative viscosity of the lube. Coiled up cold, they slip through the engine the same as the 'base' oil, allowing quick flow upon cold start.
These VIs can be chopped up by shear occurring in the engine, and then they don't help with viscosity.
The 'flat tappet' cam followers/rocker arms are in shear with the lobes. That will cut up the VIs, and also requires some additive that will 'smear' when put in shear. ZDDP was used back in the days of flat tappet auto & truck engines. It is not great for catalytic converters, so they removed it(mostly) from regular Sx rated lubes. The "S" stands for spark, the "C" for compression initiated combustion(gas/diesel) Diesels still use tappets and other bits that are in shear, and most don't use catalytic converters, so using ZDDP is a ho-hum.
Obviously, you can go to the BITOG web site, and get a much deeper explanation. (BobIsTheOilGuy) But generally, I figure SuperTech is cheap, meets the specs, and I change it with shorter intervals.
I do not go synthetic as I think it overkill. These little engines are hot when first built, but most settle down to reasonable temps after break-in. Synthetic will flow better when cold, and handle higher heat without breakdown, but I don't think either characteristic is absolutely necessary. Do your own thing.
tom
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Post by tortoise2 on May 28, 2020 10:23:49 GMT -5
Delo 400 15W40 is high in zinc and boron. STOCK GY6 engines MAY benefit from running a little Lucas Fuel Treatment for supplemental top end lubrication. Big-bore-kit engines typically experience connecting rod and crankshaft bearing failure due to unbalance rotational dynamics, and perhaps excessive cylinder compression. |
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Post by fugaziiv on May 28, 2020 10:44:50 GMT -5
I'll just weigh in here and add a wrinkle to this rat's nest of a conversation (oil always is)...
I firmly stand behind dedicated motorcycle oils, and even more so particularly for scooters. Why? Because good quality motorcycle oils are still formulated for a combination of non-roller and similar surfaces (cam lobes for example) while used in air cooled applications. Automotive oils aren't any longer as there's no prevalence of air cooled engines on the market in the automotive sector. Motorcycle oils have to remain heavy duty to reduce breakdown under the increased stresses that they experience, while automotive oils continue to move to more and increasingly lightweight and lower stress applications with much longer change periods.
It's why we don't pack a cheaper automotive/diesel oil in our engines that we sell. Would we save/make more if we did? Sure. Is it worth it, in my opinion, no.
Matt
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Post by tortoise2 on May 28, 2020 11:42:24 GMT -5
we don't pack a cheaper automotive/diesel oil in our engines that we sell . . Bel-Ray EXL Mineral 4T Engine Oil . . $8.99 per liter |
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Post by fugaziiv on May 28, 2020 11:49:26 GMT -5
we don't pack a cheaper automotive/diesel oil in our engines that we sell . . Bel-Ray EXL Mineral 4T Engine Oil . . $8.99 per literWe don't have oil related failures on these, that's for sure. Matt |
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Post by bullybike on May 29, 2020 16:45:24 GMT -5
Just use STRAIGHT 30. that 10w40 breaks down to a 10 weight at high heat motors like gy6 and runs too thin anyways. Straight weight dino diesel truck oil stays a uniform molecular size forever. And its cheap. the sythetic blah blah rest is marketing humbo jumbo Wrong.
10w40 pours like a 10 viscosity oil in cold temperatures but acts like a 40 viscosity oil at high temperatures. It was developed to allow engines to start easier in winter and therefore extended oil change intervals across seasons.
Synthetics and dino oil are two different products.
Dino or synthetic diesel engine oils have high pressure lubricants modern gas car and truck oils have eliminated for pollution reasons. The high pressure lubricants are important for cam and lifter lubrication on some multi-cylinder engines but still help with scoot engine cams and rockers.
Dino and synthetic oils thin out with use as the long chain molecules are broken apart under pressure and heat. The synthetics usually take much longer to thin out, which is why they have long change intervals.
So basically what I said, except correcting my mix up, it 10w40 breaks down to a 40 weight after many high heat cycles. anyhow I have it on good authority those "VI"'s all break apart from heat levels these strnge engines operate at (and eventually in cars and trucks too). So after a few cycles you end up with super thin fancy expensive oil. From experience I get longer lasting oil in Florida utilizing Straight Grade semi oil in all my vehicles. Did i mention its about $15 A GALLON! at most Advance Autos? |
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Post by FrankenMech on May 29, 2020 17:40:10 GMT -5
You still haven't got the multi-vis right and it's more than a few heat cycles. Check with (BobIsTheOilGuy).
I use motorcycle 4T oil in my scoot.
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