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Post by captainahab on Jul 19, 2020 10:03:53 GMT -5
Thanks Unk. I really appreciate the specific test steps. I have gotten the Laguna 50 to spark...but still not kick over. Yesterday, I deleted the EGR, tested the petcock, drained and cleaned the fuel system, deleted the overly complicated airbox nonsense and am about to go spend a few hours trying to get her started! I will start by printing your comments and testing each item you suggest. Wish me luck.
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Post by captainahab on Jul 26, 2020 14:00:54 GMT -5
"The starter relay has two connections, power and ground. Power likely comes from the brake light power, ignition ON, and lever(either) pulled. No brake light==no relay if all else is good. The ground is likely provided by the starter button. You can check the V and Ground using a test light and touching the terminals along with the battery "+" or "-" terminals .. while holding the button or lever as needed... The ignition switch grounds the CDI output signal when in OFF on AC CDIs, generally all except the SYM and Kymco brands(AFAIK) which are from Taiwan. Their CDIs are more expensive and larger. If you poke around you can find the pinout and connections that should let you rewire any to any, as long as they are proper AC or DC. The DC CDIs need battery voltage, so their ignition switches provide juice, kind of like the brake light circuit provides for the starter relay. On an AC system, you can unplug the ignition switch and the engine can run. Disconnect a DC system, and you'll have no spark. You can check for voltage at the proper pin on the CDI ignition OFF and ON. If no volts, you won't get sparky. tom" So, I now have good spark. I also have a new carb, fresh gas, and have performed the shade tree mechanic compression test of holding my finger over the spark plug hole and seems like I have plenty of compression (my only option at this point is to purchase a compression gauge so if anyone has some recommendations, I'd appreciate it). I bought a feeler gauge set and set both of my valves for .005" clearance. The only thing I don't have is a running scooter.
I did manage to find a wiring diagram (barely legible) for the Laguna 50. I'm not using the right handlebar button cluster (kill switch/starter button) as the button wasn't working. I've run a 14 gauge wire from the positive lead of the starter that I touch to the positive post of the battery to engage the starter. From the wiring diagram I interpret the kill switch to read when my ground and black/white wires are closed, that kills the engine. So having the cluster disassembled and no wires touching each other shouldn't be sending a kill signal. Center stand is down. Kickstand is up.
At this point, I'm at a total stand still. I have (some, albeit how much is currently unknown) compression, spark, and I believe fuel. Since deleting the entire airbox, it's easy to put my hand over the carb inlet to "choke" the carb. Starter fluid doesn't work. Putting a little fuel into the spark plug hole, replacing spark plug and trying to start doesn't work.
If you seen bright orange signal flares popping in South East Michigan, it's me signaling for help! Appreciate anybody's advice! Thanks in advance!
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Post by FrankenMech on Jul 26, 2020 19:22:07 GMT -5
Use a meter to check for ground at the CDI kill wire. If the meter shows continuity to ground then a safety switch is bad or activated or the wire is grounded somewhere.
When you delete the entire airbox the carb will have to have jets replaced or the carb will have to be replaced with a proper carb set for use with a pod filter or open.
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Post by captainahab on Jul 27, 2020 6:41:02 GMT -5
Thanks FrankenMech! I'll look closer into those two items. Maybe put the airbox back on long enough to see if I can get this blasted motor to crank even just a little!
Appreciate the tip on the kill switch check on the CDI. Thank you very much.
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Post by captainahab on Jul 27, 2020 16:23:04 GMT -5
"Use a meter to check for ground at the CDI kill wire. If the meter shows continuity to ground then a safety switch is bad or activated or the wire is grounded somewhere."
Hey FM-forgot to ask, when I'm checking continuity between the CDI kill wire and ground (frame) is that done with key on, or key off? I'm getting one result with key on, and another with key off. Thanks! CA
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Post by FrankenMech on Jul 27, 2020 18:06:08 GMT -5
Key ON should be no ground. The keyswitch is often connected to the kill wire to ground the kill wire when the key is switched OFF. The kill switch is used to ground the kill wire in an emergency.
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Post by captainahab on Jul 28, 2020 17:16:29 GMT -5
"Key ON should be no ground. The keyswitch is often connected to the kill wire to ground the kill wire when the key is switched OFF. The kill switch is used to ground the kill wire in an emergency."Howdy FM. Confirmed, key on, I have no continuity from kill wire to ground.Interestingly, I did another check of my spark. I'm getting exactly 4 sparks from the spark plug, and then it stops. If I let off the starter and try again, I get the same thing. 4 sparks, no more...no matter how long I hold the starter. Almost making me wonder if as the generator comes up to speed, it's losing alignment with the pick up?!? Any ideas?
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Post by captainahab on Jul 28, 2020 17:34:49 GMT -5
Also worth mentioning, that I'm not sure if the stator in the scooter is correct. It looked brand new when I took it out. I can't seem to find any reference to what a "correct" one should look like (6 coils, 8 coils type 1 or 2) What's really perplexing is that the low res wiring diagram I found for the Laguna 50 only shows 3 wires coming from the "generator". Yellow and white off the stator, blue off the pickup. That's it. But the wiring harness on the bike has 4 wires. A black wire as well. Perplexing...
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Post by sjfishon on Jul 29, 2020 19:36:41 GMT -5
Bout a year ago I had the same problem,no spark,after days of checking all of a sudden I found it, look at the plug that goes to the vid box. The red wire think it has a white stripe. I pushed on all the wires there and when I pushed this one I heard a click. Now there is spark. After all the things. It was this. Hope this helps..steve .
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Jul 30, 2020 9:28:48 GMT -5
FROM:"So, I now have good spark. I also have a new carb, fresh gas, and have performed the shade tree mechanic compression test of holding my finger over the spark plug hole and seems like I have plenty of compression"
TO:"I'm getting exactly 4 sparks from the spark plug, and then it stops"
What happened to make the sparky go away? Were there comments I missed?
I suspect you are charging a capacitor in the CDI... and then it quits ... and it takes 4 rotations to saturate or for it to ground out/short out??? Do you have a generic normal CDI(non 'performance' style)? If so, try a different CDI. The AC versions don't like being poked with DC voltage and the same but in reverse for the DC versions(don't like the AC coming from the stator). Yellow and white are normally 'charging voltage out' from the stator, then you have the AC to run the CDI and finally, black wire is *LIKELY* ground. tom
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Post by captainahab on Jul 31, 2020 7:49:29 GMT -5
"...look at the plug that goes to the vid box."Hey Steve, do you mean CDI box? Not sure what you mean by vid box. Sorry. But I do appreciate you taking the time to reply and suggest something! -A
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Post by sjfishon on Jul 31, 2020 8:44:24 GMT -5
Ya, it's cdi,red wire/white stripe
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