|
|
Post by rehabkymco on Jul 6, 2020 6:35:36 GMT -5
Ok I'm convinced that the starter clutch is what is causing Oliver to drag when using the estart and to kick it feels like I'm trying to kick start a 454 big block. My question is this, would I have to shim the vari out the thickness of the start clutch to remove it. Or should I just rip the pins and guts out of the clutch and reinstall it on the crank like Becky's?
|
|
|
|
Post by Zino on Jul 6, 2020 7:23:49 GMT -5
If it will spin freely with the guts out then it it is just a big shim.
|
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Jul 6, 2020 10:18:08 GMT -5
I would remove it totally and just add shims/spacers as needed. Easy way would be to measure the thickness of it and use that much spacing. No sense in spinning around all of that useless mass on the crank. It's just gonna make the engine less responsive.
Other option would be to see if you can get any better belt alignment with different spacing back there and then use whatever spacers are required outside so splines aren't showing and you can tighten everything properly.
|
|
|
|
Post by rehabkymco on Jul 6, 2020 11:06:26 GMT -5
I would remove it totally and just add shims/spacers as needed. Easy way would be to measure the thickness of it and use that much spacing. No sense in spinning around all of that useless mass on the crank. It's just gonna make the engine less responsive. Other option would be to see if you can get any better belt alignment with different spacing back there and then use whatever spacers are required outside so splines aren't showing and you can tighten everything properly. I agree with both Zino and You. Using the empty clutch as a spacer worked "well enough" on Becky. And as I don't have any vari shims for a 16mm(well I have the 1 and 2 mm shims) it seems better for now to go that route. But on the other hand, getting rid of that chunk of weight would help to get the most power to the ground. And as long as 3mm would put the vari in the right spot for alignment I could deal with a shitty low gear until I can place a parts order. |
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Jul 6, 2020 11:24:47 GMT -5
I would remove it totally and just add shims/spacers as needed. Easy way would be to measure the thickness of it and use that much spacing. No sense in spinning around all of that useless mass on the crank. It's just gonna make the engine less responsive. Other option would be to see if you can get any better belt alignment with different spacing back there and then use whatever spacers are required outside so splines aren't showing and you can tighten everything properly. I agree with both Zino and You. Using the empty clutch as a spacer worked "well enough" on Becky. And as I don't have any vari shims for a 16mm(well I have the 1 and 2 mm shims) it seems better for now to go that route. But on the other hand, getting rid of that chunk of weight would help to get the most power to the ground. And as long as 3mm would put the vari in the right spot for alignment I could deal with a shitty low gear until I can place a parts order. Good news is that you don't have to be so picky with the shim diameter back there. Get a close match on the ID for the crank, but you don't have to worry about matching the drive boss or anything. 16mm or 5/8" washers may do the trick. You should at least be able to find 5/8" washers at a hardware store locally if you want to go that route. 5/8" actually comes out to 15.875mm, but that may fit over because washers are typically over spec. A little filing would likely make them fit if not. You could even go down to 9/16" and file if you were concerned with a snug fit that a larger washer didn't provide. That's overkill in most scenarios. Should be ballpark of 2-3mm thick for a standard washer I'd think. |
|
|
|
Post by rehabkymco on Jul 6, 2020 15:41:00 GMT -5
I agree with both Zino and You. Using the empty clutch as a spacer worked "well enough" on Becky. And as I don't have any vari shims for a 16mm(well I have the 1 and 2 mm shims) it seems better for now to go that route. But on the other hand, getting rid of that chunk of weight would help to get the most power to the ground. And as long as 3mm would put the vari in the right spot for alignment I could deal with a shitty low gear until I can place a parts order. Good news is that you don't have to be so picky with the shim diameter back there. Get a close match on the ID for the crank, but you don't have to worry about matching the drive boss or anything. 16mm or 5/8" washers may do the trick. You should at least be able to find 5/8" washers at a hardware store locally if you want to go that route. 5/8" actually comes out to 15.875mm, but that may fit over because washers are typically over spec. A little filing would likely make them fit if not. You could even go down to 9/16" and file if you were concerned with a snug fit that a larger washer didn't provide. That's overkill in most scenarios. Should be ballpark of 2-3mm thick for a standard washer I'd think. I've got 5/8 copper washers on hand, and cheap enough to get steel ones. That's great. Didn't think od would matter but id much rather have reassurance. |
|
