Looking for the Lingo, information, info, 49cc Chin scootere

[dnel72]

Hello fellow gearheads! Auto, Diesel Mechanic. Gas and propane tanker former welder as well and before that we worked for Uncle Sam because he wanted us to be all we can be. Just about 48yrs young next month!!

Anyways what brings me here?

I bought a used 2008 Chinese scooter and I'm now hoping the $480 I paid wasn't to much but I think it was.I've been going around pretty good on it lately for the last week averaging about 70mpg when checked and that's me and at times me seat storage full from Menards as I want to save gas, mileage on my 04 Tahoe I've owned since new (129k miles on that) and the scooter has less than 7800 miles on it.

Need to learn what I have (Model Lingo "GY6" or whatever I have) and other things oil change, gear change, possible rear brakes & rotor/drum whichever they have, rear shock w/spring as it's leaking oil (I'm a bigger guy at 330lbs), turn signal only works on left and can cancel by pushing button in middle. Left and Right both worked but right stopped unexpectedly. Maybe some white gear grease in spray can that more of a film lubricant than grease itself?

Was watching a video of a guy in Denver where he actually talked of getting rollers in the front half of transmission that are of a different gram weight if I recollect properly. Heck I don't know if the engine, clutch, transmission he's referring to is something of the type my scooter I just purchased.

If I can get this thing upgraded from a 49~50cc up to a 100 or 150cc without going broke I'd be tickled as I've seen some upgrade kits where guys were swapping the heads out.

I can tell you part of the name of the mfr of my scooter is Chongqing with a word before and multiple words after but it's China made but what isn't China made anymore?

I'll attach some photos and let you all look things over and throw some links at me or some good ol reliable information.


Also furthermore if I wanted to build a custom build "50cc" scooter/moped what would I be looking at for cost wise with everything all in? I can build it myself, do the wiring, etc. I know how to solder, weld, do electrical all very well. Not looking for a fast fast scooter but something to keep up with traffic around town and a little on the top end in case I need to get out of a situation I can't slow down into. Our top speeds on surface roads here in town are 45 so 55-60 would be good.

Heck if I have to at the right time sacrifice my current scooter for a motor, trans, gearbox assy I'm fine with that or I have access to another one for about $450ish used but still runs.

By the looks of these motors it looks as if something breaks you get the new part(s) replace or upgrade the part and keep scooting along?


Also on my scooter it called fleet gl-3gear oil which isn't around so I did some reading and found the gl-5 is a replacement and got some synthetic. Will this be ok?

The engine sticker called for 15W-40 and I purchased synthetic in that as well.

I will say the engine kept stalling at idle and when I filled with 91 octane I put just less than a ounce of the fuel lubricant and now it don't die off. Wonder if I cleaned the carburetor out good with that. And here I thought it had fuel injection but I have seen already that I can get a setup for that if I'm not strapped for cash.

I ride at night regularly and would love to do a LED headlight setup which the lights are round lights.

MY scooter looks identical to these VIP newer branded scooters I've seen running around lately. Looks as if they just change the name every few years or something.

Look forward to any information, tips, tricks, etc anyone may be able to provide.

I'm adding a dropbox link to my pics as I haven't figured out the photo linking. Hope this is allowed until I figure out forum stuff?

Here's the link for the photos on dropbox.


www.dropbox.com/sh/1l1x05wcemsx45v/AADpR70Q9ZayS5m_-7kEdHtia?dl=0

[tortoise2]

Jul 6, 2020 10:07:27 GMT -5 dnel72 said:

 330lbs . . 55-60 would be good

For best reliability . . replace scooter with at least a 125cc model and keep it stock!

GY6 50cc has bottom mounts . . 125/150cc top mounts (except Sym) . . so engine swaps are NOT easy.

[90GTVert]

As said above, stock is usually the most reliable. I'm sure you know that from previous mechanic work. The more power and RPM you try to add, the more you tip the scale away from reliability in most cases. The sort of exception for Chinese stuff is often replacing components with better quality items. With the mileage on your scoot, I definitely wouldn't want to use a really large big bore kit. 47mm bore (72cc) at most. Cranks are known to fail with larger kits. I had one fail at 2000 miles with a brand new crank so I always recommend stopping at 47mm if reliability is a big concern. That's still a nice boost in performance that will be well appreciated when accelerating. A 150 would still outperform it and likely be more reliable if left alone. Again, depends exactly what you're after. If reliability is #1, you could argue that Chinese scooters aren't the choice to make period.

What you have is sometimes called a GY6 50. It's basically the little brother of the GY6 (125/150). I usually just call them a 139QMB, as their engine codes designate.

With the mileage that you have, it is likely time (or overdue depending on previous maintenance) to check out the CVT. I like to go over the whole thing. This video covers a different engine, but it's all very similar and I tried to get into all areas of common concern.
youtu.be/2EjW-iSP-Q8

I would also advise considering sliders as opposed to roller weights in the variator if you service/mod it.
www.49ccscoot.com/faq/rollerslider.html

There's actually a lot of info in our FAQ that I think would help you learn a bit of useful stuff about the scoot.
www.49ccscoot.com/faq/faq.html

Don't get too caught up on specifics of make/model. There isn't proper documentation from the manufacturers to necessitate that. Focus on engine platform and body style largely. These things are fairly generic. There are differences to look out for here and there, but you'll have better success finding things keeping it more generalized to engine and body style.

Regarding cost for a modified scoot, it depends. You can get a big bore kit, some main jets, and sliders for $100-200 total and have a quicker/faster scoot. Some of us have thousands into scoots with engines, paint/powder coating, suspension, gauges, and various shiny bits. If you really get the modding bug, I'd suggest looking into the two-stroke scoots. That's just my personal preference for fun to ride and mod scooters though.

That gear oil and oil should be fine. No need for any motorcycle specific engine oil since these don't have a wet clutch.

No fuel system treatment is a substitute for an actual carb cleaning IMO, but if it worked and it runs well now then I wouldn't bother to go any farther till the carb was off for some other reason.

There are lots of LED bulbs available now. Just have to take out the current bulbs to make sure you're matching them up. You may have to look to online sources vs parts stores for the bulbs that many scoots use. I've had the most success (best lighting) with full housing replacements. That requires custom mounting though and to be fair I haven't really used any of the most modern LED replacements yet. Some look to be very bright now.

[FrankenMech]

[dnel72]

Jul 6, 2020 11:24:39 GMT -5 tortoise2 said:

Jul 6, 2020 10:07:27 GMT -5 dnel72 said:

 330lbs . . 55-60 would be good

For best reliability . . replace scooter with at least a 125cc model and keep it stock!

GY6 50cc has bottom mounts . . 125/150cc top mounts (except Sym) . . so engine swaps are NOT easy.

So Are you saying 125cc is the highest they can go with the current 50cc motor set up I have?  I think I’m gonna go through things. Make sure the variator, the bell and everything else are good along with the fluid changes. 

after that I’m gonna look at brighten the lights up on the headlights to begin with. I need to figure this turn signal switch out as it worked when I bought it left and right and when you pushed the button it would cancel to the middle. Do these things have a way you can run them with four-way flashers for say you were going slow and traffic as at times I am extra cautious and figure if I have the four ways on and then people will see themAnd realize I am going slow which should give them a clue seeing the lights flashing. 

Great information here from what I’m seeing that you guys have posted and poking around in the forums as well. 

[90GTVert]

No. 95cc is about where the 139QMB tops out. The actual GY6 is 125-150cc standard. He was saying to replace your whole scoot and get a 125/150. Tortoise is a big fan of stock scoots and not at all a fan of performance mods.

[FrankenMech]

The QMB 50cc case/bearings and rod gives out when stressed to far. It will go 70cc with fair reliability but at any moment it can grenade. Pushing it even higher makes it a ticking time bomb. The 125/150 QMI/J models are the go to for increased displacement but the motor mounts are on top which requires welding in mounts etc. The QMB 50cc is a bottom mount engine. There does not seem to be any 'kit' to make the conversion.

[tortoise2]

Jul 6, 2020 21:36:36 GMT -5 90GTVert said:

Tortoise is a big fan of stock scoots and not at all a fan of performance mods.

Guilty as charged!  As evidenced by the NUMEROUS big-bore-kit FUBAR installations chronicled on this forum . . just a general observation that the more a GY6 50/125/150/168cc engine is "tinkered with", the less reliable it becomes!

[milly]

Yep have to agree with tortoise2 on this one spent so much time on my 125 lml 2T with removing emmission kit 180bbk, diff exhaust etc with hand hovering over the clutch waiting for the seize which happened unexpectedly a few times so I went to a 150cc barrel from lml set it up by the manual with all the emissions set up back on to the American spec and jetting not only have I got a 25cc increase over the British 125cc learner legal limit and insurance still the same. I dont worry about seizures and even pull a sidecar on it now and not a hint of trouble.
The only difference on it is premix and not autolube as that was playing up and I have no prob putting oil with the petrol done it most of my life on 2t things.
Now doing the same with my Vespa ET4 125 to 150 and US spec.