I routed it to two (chromed and soft) copper pipes that goes round the back of my scooter twice and then to a canister under my feet. From there it goes back to the adapter and to the pump as usual.
Reason for the extra canister, it's an oil filter too. It suppose to keep the dirt in there and on the outlet I also have a regular small crankcase filter: link Which seems to work well. Total oil capacity is approx. 1.2L.
For those that can afford it, I instead recommend something like this filter: link
After reading reviews on radiators for small engines I didn't want to buy one, They seemed cheap made and as I travel Europe with my scooters I rather have something I can trust than being sorry later... I branded radiator around €150 is out of the question... My redneck solution do cool the oil but I don't know how much worse it is compared to a proper radiator. When riding a couple of hours I can touch one pipe for one second and the return pipe for three-four before I get burned, and that's my engineered test sheet! I could ad another pipe or two but I think this is enough for the engine.
PS: I am not saying that this is right or wrong, I just posted it for those interested.
EDIT: The pipe diameter is 10mm, 8mm internally and 2x 1.2 meters length (approx. 8 feet in total).
You are keeping the oil a lot cooler than it likely is without the cooler. I expect the INFLOW is hotter(duh) and you drop it enough that you are able to touch for a few seconds. That must be 20-30 degrees. Well, maybe not, but it is significant. One might think 'big deal', but they should remember that the heat removed from the oil is continuing, cumulative, etc. Not just a 'one shot', so adds up to a lot of THERMS over time. If really adventurous, you could add some finnage to your canister and increase the area where you can radiate heat or transfer it via conduction to the air flowing by.(both, actually) It seems to me that the flow pumped to the rocker arms is not 'exacting' in needing flow right now. A crankshaft bearing needs to be lubricated quickly from startup, or it will sustain damage. The rocker arms and cam bearings/lobes already have some oil left on their surface, so a slight delay at startup should cause no problem. The delay, if there was one, would be the time taken to fill the oil lines, canister, and supply line, but if there is no drainback, it should be full after the first run until the filter needs cleaning or replacement again. The bearing surfaces on the head mechanism don't actually need pressure lubrication until they are running for a while and have thrown off the remains from before. The flow will carry heat from the top of the cylinder head back to the sump. tom tom
It's not how hard you work, it's how much you get done. simplificate & add lightness
Strangely enough the drainback is minimal, I was afraid of that too. I am certain there is a delay to the head of the engine but nothing to be worried about. When I installed the lot I started the engine to fill the pipes and canister, I gave it like 10 sec. and turned it off. The sump was already empty and I filled up .6 L so the pump does a hell of a job. I know the pipes cool the engine enough because there is no "metallic ticking/shooting" (dont know the word) sounds from it when it cools down at stand still like they do when too hot.
To those who think an oil cooler isn't a "big deal" on this engines (if BBK'd) I can honestly say that it extends the life of the head by double at least...
Senna1Rossi: Thanks renagade281!
May 23, 2016 14:59:12 GMT -5
Fox: I don't really know how to say this but straight. I am Dave's Girlfriend Kellilee and bluntly and VERY SADLY he passed away early Tuesday morning. I know he would want ya all to know this. Thank You Brent for befriending my love he was very happy on here!
Jun 18, 2016 16:26:04 GMT -5
Fox: www.gofundme.com/29mgf6b8 I hope it is ok to pass on his gofundme page link. If not you will un-post it I'm sure. Thanks again all!!
Jun 18, 2016 16:31:18 GMT -5