So this is my challenge second round 1PE40QMB

[bigkahuna427]

I came to this forum and introduce myself with a thread titled “So this is my challenge”. The challenge continues with these two really cheap chinese scooters. They were really a mess had been sitting outside in the Florida sun and looked to have fallen over plenty with lots of busted up plastics. These scooters are 2003 Geely scooters. They have a vertical jug carb on front and exhaust at rear of the jug. They have a bathed in oil chain drive transmission. From what I have been told these are not worth my time. I went ahead stripped them down to the frame went right through them with one now complete and running and the other still needing a couple of things. My post today is to simply document what I did in hopes it may be of help to someone in the future.

So here is my challenge. I have two scooters with less than 300 miles on them but they are beat. I am on an island 1500 miles from home and have a small suitcase of tools. I have a Home Depot, Wal Mart and Auto Zone 20 mins. away. My plan is to make one out of two using one of these as a donor scooter.

I strip down the first one degrease and clean everything then paint the frame and motor.

I reassemble the frame install the motor, wiring harness, mask and re-paint wheels. I had to cure several issues with the wiring harness mostly due to crumbling broken cheap plastic connectors. I always use solder and shrink tubing with wiring repairs for reliability. Replaced all the fuel and vacum lines and cleaned out the carb. At this point I am focusing on functionality so to the donor scooter I go. I rob a coil and the hand controls which were all busted up, the missing choke plunger and not much else. Both gas tanks I have are pretty rusty so I take the oil injection tank from the donor and bungee cord it to the frame.

A couple of kicks and it runs! I adjust the carb and ride it up and down the dirt road a few times. From there this bike has always started one kick no choke (temp in the high 80s here) and I do not even have to give it gas. It just starts and maintains an idle!

So with this one running and not much taken from the other one the gears in my head are turning. I did a search in the local Craigslist and find a parts scooter a half hour south of Sanibel in Bonita He just so happens to have a Geely parts scooter that he has robbed all the parts he needs. He wants $100 but I negotiated a fair price of $60. I go back the next day with tools and strip everything off of it leaving the frame so I can fit it all in the trunk of a Honda Accord. The odometer on this one reads 61 miles. I guess these things were so bad people gave up on them pretty quickly. Now I have an extra engine, carb, hand controls in perfect condition and a few body parts that will save me uber amounts of time. I also have another gas tank but this one is rusty too.

So on to scooter number two. I basically do the same process as scooter 1. However, I was not able to get it running with compression, fuel and spark all seemingly ok. I then start swapping parts plugs, carbs, coils and even the motor thinking maybe the stator timing is somehow wrong or maybe the compression isn't enough or I am pushing pressure to the crankcase. I was only able to get the engine up to maybe 1500 RPMs and no throttle response. I am no dummy but am a little baffled at this point. I do not have a compression tester here but there was evidence of water in the cylinder. Took the top end off the original engine and found a little rust around the very top of the cylinder bore. This was about 3/8” from the top and cleaned up quick with just a few scuffs of sandpaper. I think my next plan of attack is to show up with a new carb (maybe) and rings and take another shot at it.

s1012.photobucket.com/albums/af248/nwsmith427/Geely%20Scooter%20Stuff/

[bigkahuna427]

I am only here for a certain amount of time. So, at this point I start working on the body panels and gas tanks. The Body panels were in really tough shape. I started with super glue then JB Weld to strengthen the panels enough so that I could work with them enough so they wouldn't crack and break further. Once these steps had set overnight there was enough integrity that I could sand them using an orbital sander and some 80 grit. The part of the side covers that had an opening for the oil resevior was designed very weak. Not more than 1/4” wide this probably would have broken the first time the cover was removed. I laid in a thick piece of coat hanger wire and cemented it in place with JB Weld.

After sanding the backside of all repair areas I laid in the fiberglass mat and resin. I made smaller pieces of mat to laminate the mounting tabs a couple of which had broken off. For the tabs I put down a couple of layers. Once this sat overnight I was able to work on the finish side. I sanded the everything pretty good with 120 grit where the old finish needed to be taken down and then 180 to take out those scratches. I filled anything that needed filler let it set up then sanded that with 120 then 180. I then used a “sanding primer” that was a “Rustoleum” product. I used all Rustoleum stuff for finish and priming. I was pretty impressed in general for something that was sprayed out of a can. The filler primer went on nice and thick. The next day I sanded with 180 grit and it was not perfect by a show car standard but for a POS scooter it was fantastic. Once all the sanding primer was sanded I then laid down just one good coat on everything. The paint did bite into the existing finish in places and I did have an issue on the back side of one of the front shields. After laying down a first light coat I let it flash off for a while then I put on a second coat and the whole area crazed pretty bad. I let it be as it sort of looked like a textured finish and made the area that I repaired with fiber glass less noticeable.

I want to add when using spray can paint (spray bombs) keeping the nozzle clean will certainly give better results. I would use the spray can then pop the nozzle off and drop into some acetone and blow out. However even dried paint in the valve can blow out onto the paint looking like a snot. The best would be to prep all your paint work and have it ready to tack rag it then paint in one session.

The fuel tanks were another project in themselves. I had three tanks two with holes and one pretty rusted up with heavy scale. I tried dumping a bunch of screws in the tank and shook the hell out of them but it didn't seem to work real well. I then bought two jars of Naval Jelly and dumped about a half of a container into each of the tanks then rotated them for the next day or so. When I pulled the duct tape off of the openings I thought I had a real mess. The tanks looked worse than before the rust looked heavier and was black. So I dumped a little more into each tank and then rotated them for another half day. I then pulled off the duct tape and hosed them with just a garden hose on jet spray. A pressure washer or taking them to the car may have knocked a little more of the scale off but the inside looked pretty reasonable and mostly had a sandblasted look. Then I dumped a box of baking soda into a 5 gallon bucket with hot water, dunked, shook and let them soak for an hour.

Now I have two tanks that are clean but one leaks and the other certainly could. So, I have some fiberglass resin and mat that I can put to use. On the one that did not leak I simply took the mat and cut it up to fine short strands. I then mixed it up with resin and hardner and dumped it in the tank rotating the tank to cover most of the interior. I did this in three coats. One of the signal lights with a peanut bulb wired to a battery was very handy to look around the inside of the tank. I took the other tank and after duct taping the rust holes did the same process. After that I ground up the outside and laid mat and resin to the outside and then painted.

With everything painted and a gas tank I was able to assemble scooter number 1 the orange one before leaving for Florida. Early one morning I slapped a plate that was on one of the scooters and five years expired. Then with about a half pint of gas I put a few miles on it until it ran out. It really didn't seem that bad to ride. I thought it could use a little more wheel base and it seemed quick to steer. At 6'3” and 260lbs I am definatley dwarfing this thing. My knees are outside of the shield and I am sure I am looking pretty stupid

I was leaving the next day so no sense in registering it. I drained the gas out of the carb and fuel tank then put a little two stroke oil in the tank. I then locked up the brakes and and put the bike nearly vertical on the front and rear wheel to get the oil around the inside of the tank. Into the storage area and there it will sit until I can get down there again.

s1012.photobucket.com/albums/af248/nwsmith427/Geely%20Scooter%20Stuff/

[bigkahuna427]

Just added up my receipts. I already had the fiberglass resin $140 in materials, plus $60 for the parts bike.

[90GTVert]

You do excellent work. It's impressive that you created these two fine looking scoots on that kind of budget! :thumb:

[stepthrutuner]

Great work! I appreciate DIAYers (Do It All Yourself). I know those little scoots kind of 'challenge' you 'guys of stature' but you can't beat the price. :thumb:

[Fox]

All I can say is WOW! It looks factory fresh! You've obviously mastered body work. :clap: :chinese:

[speedy1125]

nice work

[bigkahuna427]

Thanks guys. They are not perfect but look good from 10 feet. So, I will call them a 10! Certainly saved these things from death. I am back home now but really have no idea why the green one wouldn't run and wish I had a compression tester with me. Anyway that will be for the next time around.

I do have a couple of questions though.
I took down the number off the engine near the rear shock mount. I tried to research it here and found a JOG motor which this one is not. Can anyone identify the motor by the photos on photobucket? Maybe I wrote it down wrong?

Also, I have a lady friend down there that I may offer for her to use it if she wants. Currently the fuel tank is empty and there is no battery. I have the vacuum petcock on there and have been applying a vacuum when I need to fill the carb. Will the engine pull enough vacuum to open the petcock by kicking it over? Can I just tell her to kick it like ten times?

[90GTVert]

I dunno if you wrote it down wrong or it's labeled wrong or what, but a 1PE40QMB should not be that. Most commonly, that's a Jog/Minarelli engine, but I suppose it could be anything that meets the criteria for the coding. The style you have is usually a 1E41QMB.

1 = Single Cylinder
P = Horizontal Cylinder (Your's should be blank, for vertical.)
E = 2T
40 = Bore Diameter (Usually those are 41mm stock.)
Q = Forced Air Cooling
M = Motorcycle
B = Engine Size Code For 50cc


Anything that turns the engine over should provide enough vacuum to the petcock to open it. If not, you need to replace the petcock.

[bigkahuna427]

Well, I am gong to have to assume it was mis-stamped as I am pretty sure I read the number correctly. I did find in another forum someone had the same number on their scoot and he thought maybe it was the manufacturer to get through emissions or something. :chinese: