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Post by 808ministroke on Nov 28, 2020 4:21:27 GMT -5
OK so I found a website that shows all kinds of views for my type of engine I can get primary and secondary I don't know if one would be easier to install than the other if anyone can tell me if 1 is less of a hassle please let me know if say they are equally easy or hard to install I've come up with the ratios for primaries and so far I got 16/37 0.432, 13/40 0.325 , 15/38 0.394, 14/39 0.358. all ratios Were also in secondary gears but these 2 ratios are also available 14/48 0.291 , 13/48 0.270. It seems that I could get the biggest Increase by switching secondaries for they have Taller ratios then the primaries do. I guess I am going to go with either 13/48 for 14/48 both have a ratio under 0.3 Does Does anybody think that by using these super tall secondaries but sticking with the stock primaries would be too tall of a ratio for my build If nobody says not a good idea then that's what I'm gonna go with.
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Post by oldgeek on Nov 28, 2020 7:23:19 GMT -5
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Post by 808ministroke on Nov 28, 2020 11:13:33 GMT -5
[ibr] OK I did the math correct this time and if I get 16/47 sec. my ratio will be 10.8 :1 or 15/47 sec. will get me 9.59:1 with stock primary, I think there's woman ratio where I can go as high it 8 and a 1/2 to 1 but I think that 9 and a 1/2 to 1 would probably be the sweet spot for me. I'm gonna order some soon you're so if anybody Doesn't think 9 and a 1/2 to 1 Well severely take away my take off please let me know I was actually thinking 8 and a 1/2 My current ratio is 12 to 1.thanks, I figure we also Help me utilize the power of my cylinder while Staying in the power band of pipe
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Post by 808ministroke on Nov 29, 2020 4:21:23 GMT -5
so I'm waiting to pull the trigger on a set of gears from raising planet I've settled on either secondary gears that will give me a ratio of 9 and a 1/2 to 1 or primary That will give me a ratio of 8 . 3 to 1. I'm really only concerned with which gears will I have the best chance of successfully switching out correctly if it's a crapshoot where nobody responds I guess I'm going to just flip a coin.
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Post by Lucass2T on Nov 29, 2020 4:58:59 GMT -5
so I'm waiting to pull the trigger on a set of gears from raising planet I've settled on either secondary gears that will give me a ratio of 9 and a 1/2 to 1 or primary That will give me a ratio of 8 . 3 to 1. I'm really only concerned with which gears will I have the best chance of successfully switching out correctly if it's a crapshoot where nobody responds I guess I'm going to just flip a coin.
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Post by 808ministroke on Nov 29, 2020 7:38:30 GMT -5
i understand since , n because of that post very helpful. , When are we simply Trying to find out was if switching the secondaries would be easier task then say switching the prim. also leaning more towards an 8.5:1 ratio , what you guys thinl k???
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Post by Lucass2T on Nov 29, 2020 9:34:07 GMT -5
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Post by 808ministroke on Nov 30, 2020 20:07:43 GMT -5
currently 12:1 looking for 9-8:1
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Post by 808ministroke on Dec 1, 2020 1:14:08 GMT -5
yah i dont know if its the heavier weights or something else cvt related or hell even carb related. so since changing my weights from five and a half and four grams to all five and ahalf i notice it pulls alot harder and really stays on the pipe. i also upjetted to a 134 from a 132 mj. today i went out for a top speed atempt but the engine kept bogging at high speed not a long bog but just an occasional one at wide open. so tonight i raised needle clip to second leanest from middle no improvement, then i switched to a 130 mj and it rode alot better but still bogged at full speed although alot less. i was able tp get to 57 i stead of only 54 earlier it responded great up to say 45-50mph. i checked variator and i did add two shims when i cahnged the weights so it could be because of that but the belt made 0.5mm or less travel up the face. do you think this bogging could be belt slipping? i did just recently put a new one on and am not too familiar with what belt slipping feels like , i m know a video is wortj a million words but does a sudden momentary bog only at high speeds sound like belt slip?
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Post by aeroxbud on Dec 1, 2020 9:08:56 GMT -5
I've only ever experienced belt slip when at lower speed, and full throttle. I would think it less likely near top speed. New belts can take a few miles to break in. And up to about 100 for the Kevlar ones to reach best performance.
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Post by 808ministroke on Dec 2, 2020 4:04:29 GMT -5
OK so For the last 2 days my bike has been pulling harder and snappier then ever before. I credit this to the Smaller main jet and leaner needle position. As well as the increase in Roller weight. I've been having A-blast riding it around Tonight I decided I should go on and top speed run and see where I got, It sure felt a lot faster but when I looked at my GPS speedometer my top speed was only 57 miles per hour. I'm not getting the strange Bogging and it accelerates faster than ever but I'm really surprised I lost some top end. I know that with CVT tuning you have to usually sacrifice acceleration or top speed sometimes but I always thought that heavier weights if anything would slow your acceleration down but possibly produce more top . This is baffling me I know later rulers would allow Higher rpm but that doesn't always equal higher speeds I'm at a loss as to why the bike feel so much better but I lost 5 miles per hour Where did I just simply trade off high speed for horsepower?
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Post by CrankingWithCG on Dec 2, 2020 4:42:30 GMT -5
OK so For the last 2 days my bike has been pulling harder and snappier then ever before. I credit this to the Smaller main jet and leaner needle position. As well as the increase in Roller weight. I've been having A-blast riding it around Tonight I decided I should go on and top speed run and see where I got, It sure felt a lot faster but when I looked at my GPS speedometer my top speed was only 57 miles per hour. I'm not getting the strange Bogging and it accelerates faster than ever but I'm really surprised I lost some top end. I know that with CVT tuning you have to usually sacrifice acceleration or top speed sometimes but I always thought that heavier weights if anything would slow your acceleration down but possibly produce more top . This is baffling me I know later rulers would allow Higher rpm but that doesn't always equal higher speeds I'm at a loss as to why the bike feel so much better but I lost 5 miles per hour Where did I just simply trade off high speed for horsepower? Maybe go back down .5g or .25g? Maybe your setup liked high rpm at speed. The heavier weights maybe helped keep it in the lower meat of the powerband for takeoff, whereas the lighter weights just revved too high and kinda missed the grunt? Idk, my zuma with light ass rollers just revved so high and didnt pull, felt like it completely missed the powerband. Maybe thats happening to you?
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Post by repherence2 on Dec 4, 2020 3:08:17 GMT -5
yah i dont know if its the heavier weights or something else cvt related or hell even carb related. so since changing my weights from five and a half and four grams to all five and ahalf i notice it pulls alot harder and really stays on the pipe. i also upjetted to a 134 from a 132 mj. today i went out for a top speed atempt but the engine kept bogging at high speed not a long bog but just an occasional one at wide open. so tonight i raised needle clip to second leanest from middle no improvement, then i switched to a 130 mj and it rode alot better but still bogged at full speed although alot less. i was able tp get to 57 i stead of only 54 earlier it responded great up to say 45-50mph. i checked variator and i did add two shims when i cahnged the weights so it could be because of that but the belt made 0.5mm or less travel up the face. do you think this bogging could be belt slipping? i did just recently put a new one on and am not too familiar with what belt slipping feels like , i m know a video is wortj a million words but does a sudden momentary bog only at high speeds sound like belt slip? 1. Get your CTV to a decent tune. This entails stalling the clutch long enough to get up to the RPM where the pipe/bore combination starts to build power. 2. Then focus on your carb tuning. Get the carb circuits in tune before you move back to fine tuning the CVT. You have to make sure your carb is tune properly before tuning the trans. 3. The high speed bogging is possibly a fuel flow issue at WOT. 4. Roller weights are also dependent on Contra Spring stiffness. I have only ran 1 cylinder that could rev past 10k and at that point i was on a yellow spring with 3.7g rollers. My 94cc that never reved past 10k is set up with yellow spring and 4.3g rollers. It baffles me that your bore revs to 13k and the pipe can go to 10.5k but you are running rollers in the 5g range. Use a tachometer to help you tune your trans.
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Post by repherence2 on Dec 4, 2020 3:17:03 GMT -5
That 24mm carb might be holding back your top speed. I ran a polini CP24 on 83cc bore. The 24 is a decent "all-around" carb for 83cc. However, the 28mm PWK type carb gave me better top speed.
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Post by 808ministroke on Dec 4, 2020 5:37:34 GMT -5
That 24mm carb might be holding back your top speed. I ran a polini CP24 on 83cc bore. The 24 is a decent "all-around" carb for 83cc. However, the 28mm PWK type carb gave me better top speed. wow your thoughts were the same as mine, let me explain. first off i was tuning for 12,000 rpm as the cvt shifts before. however , i was told by forum members that i shiuld tune for my pipe amd not my cylinder so i went up from 5 & 1/2 with 3 grams to 5.5 & 4 grams to straight 5.5s and that put my rpm while soon ater hitting throttle and until my variator is maxed out and i have to say that made a HUGE improvement from right on throttle the whole way pulls harder. now my contra spring is pretty stiff maybe medium its a malossi white, clutch springs are polini green witch i also believe medium stiffness. before i would hit 11,500 before starting to shift now it shifts at about 10,500 it still climbs to 12,000+ on over rev. oh and i do use a 28mm pwk , (oko). i was told by members if i used a smaller carb it would also increase my power alot, but im with you on carb size and type i tried to use a 24roundslide before just to try a true genuine kehin but it leaked. i found out why the bog was happening. and that the new belt from stage six was too wide even with three shims probably one too many for the threads the belt still never rubbed all the mark at top center of fixed half so it wasnt sitting at bottom of variator. i will finish the on the next post ...
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