Lance Cabo 50CC no spark conundrum

[cabo50cp]

Thanks I tested the CDI and actually for the hiking running so I know all parts are good. What I do have here is a wiring problem.

The bike will only start when I have the blinkers on, but not all the time. I checked and no wires besides those for the blinkers are connected to the blinker wires.

It will also start sometimes if I flicker then brights on or off. I disconnected the lights all together and connected them to another battery to try to figure this out and the bike worn start when I have no lights connected!


I have a day time running light which is LED and a regular ol headlight with brights on/off. I disassembled the lights switch and followed the wires to see if I had any grounding or open wires and couldn’t find anything.

I’m on a DC system so my lights are powered by my stator while the ignition/starting sequence is battery powered. I also checked the kill switch and it’s functioning as it should. I have another kill/lock switch in my seat component and have tested to the best of my ability. It isn’t clear to me where this lock connects to the starter process but it seems to working because I have been able to get the bike started,

As you could imagine I’m extremely confused so any advice or tips would be very much appreciated. I have also been unable to find the wireinf diagram for my specific bike - it’s a Lance Cabo 50cc and also sold globally as a SYM Crox 50cc. I’ve found the troubleshooting guides and manual but haven’t been able to locate a wiring diagram. Any help find that would be awesome

[GrumpyUnk]

If you seem to get the CDI to work... it starts... when you have the blinker or lights on, then it makes sense that the power or ground to the CDI is being fed/passed through the blinker or lights. Intermittent could be the blinker function - open/close power - or a flaky headlight switch.
I think I would get a test light and connect it firmly to a good known ground. The engine should (should..!!) be grounded directly to the frame or battery via the black cable with the eyelet. Most are attached to the cam cover.
Then, key ON, any safety switches(kick stand, seat occupancy, kill button by throttle, ...) should be checked or disabled. You should have power to the CDI. Now, reverse the test light lead, and connect the clamp to the "+" terminal of the battery. Check for good ground at the CDI. (I don't know the wire colors, but there are pics of the connections for AC and DC CDIs here on site).
I don't know SYM models except that they are Taiwan built and good. I own a Sym Classic 150 and like it a lot. It's nothing like the scooters.
I understand the engine will only start with the blinkers on. That means, rotate and run on its own power, rather than rotate the crankshaft using the starter motor.

I don't want to spend the time trying to find what you search for, but suggest looking for:
"sym 50cc wiring diagram" or 'schematic' instead. You then look at the images, closely, and pick one that seems to resemble the wiring you have seen, such as the seat switch, kickstand switch(?), etc. THEN, use colored pencil or pen, and annotate things that are like yours. Trace the colored wires to spots on the switches and CDI, again noting differences. You will end up with a good image/diagram of what your wiring looks like. I don't think you'll find an exact match(I NEVER have), but you can use these as a good starting point, and draw your own from scratch eventually if you are into it.
Need to find a SYM or KYM DC operated CDI diagram and add onto that. IMO.
tom

[cabo50cp]

Figured I’d give an update. With all of your help I fixed the electrical issues and had the bike running very nicely. It was hitting top speeds and accelerating nicely, all for a day or so. After installing a new throttle cable ( mine was fraying) I noticed my wheel no longer spins. The back wheel will move when I manually spin clutch but at no other time. I inspected the belt and clutch and it all looks as I believe it should.

This bike may be haunted. As soon as I fix one thing another problem emerges :/

[GrumpyUnk]

The variator, the belt, and the clutch are the power transferring path to the clutch bell and the gearbox-rear wheel. If the variator is sticking, no belt squeeze to up shift, if the belt is worn out, the variator will spin and try to move against the torque spring, and you will see the belt climb/descend as the rpms change.
If the clutch shoes have broken free, the bell won't turn or will be reluctant, even though the belt is rolling along, moving the rear pulley bits.
Check by turning the variator(remove plug?) and see if the variator moves the belt, then see that the belt is rotating the rear pulley and clutch shoes(inside the bell).
There will always be something that can be a deterrent. Your choice to keep going, and overcome the barrier.
If you want to give up, at least get it moving on its own so you can sell it for something. Non-working is cut severely in value.
tom