Lube guidelines

[adam2]

I never really learned the basics of lubing machinery, gears, hinges, bearings, etc.  Is there a handy guide, something simple for people with SHORT ATTENTION SPANS like me? Nothing to open a can of worms or bring out too much discussion!

So, for example, I removed the starter clutch from the cvt area, cleaned it, then wasn't sure if I should oil it with engine oil, 90w gear oil, grease, or nothing. It's a gear that slides forward by centrifugal force to engage with the cvt gear, so it has to slide well, and also mesh worth other gears.  I'm now thinking moly oil, but I don't really know!


Here are the basics I've found from some reading.

Grease and lube
Don't mix grease types, they may not be compatible and can react with each other to make a messy goop. Completely clean out old grease first.
White lithium grease. door hinges, drawer slides, cv joints. good to 370 degrees f
High temperature grease, often silicone based, for wheel bearings. Also useful for steering linkages, chairs, universal joints, suspension
Marine grease, resists water better
Dielectric grease, for electronic connections, spark plug boots, etc, protect from corrosion. Often silicone based.
Penetrating oil, (like wd-40, "water dispersant #40"), low-viscosity oils with additives that are specifically designed for one purpose: to infiltrate the tiny cracks between surfaces (such as screw threads), add lubrication, and break up rust. They are short term lubricants. Homemade: 90% vegetable oil + 10% acetone, shake before use. acetone is flammable, and will melt many plastic containers, use a glass or metal container to mix it, or buy an oil can.
Moly oil, 0.5 - 5 percent Molybdenum disulfide powder mixed with Industrial and Motor Oils or Synthetic fluids, use for all automotive and industrial gears, reducers, cams, etc

oiled bearings can last twice as long as greased ones (is this true?)

[captincvmn]

If something is in an area where wet lubes can attract abrasive dust consider a dry lube like graphite.
Other than that if it has surfaces that touch while moving lubricant can’t hurt. Gears, engines and transmissions all have specific needs based in seals, shear load, metal composition etc. Buying quality lubricants can extend intervals.
For things that don’t run in a puddle of lubricant thinner sprays will penetrate tight tolerance areas but also break down and evaporate more quickly. Thicker lasts a lot longer but also can’t run into a groove easily on a shaft where a bushing is present without some assistance.

[adam2]

So on a bicycle or scooter chain, use dry lube when possible.

On a scooter cvt, the variator and clutch rotate on a shaft, and they also slide in and out. What are the trade-offs, oil or high temperature grease?, How to choose what weight oil?

I looked at a few atv and motorcycle manuals, they specify engine oil to lubricate some parts, but don't give any guideline what weight. I'm guessing they don't want 90w gear oil either?

[aeroxbud]

Variator is best with no lubricant on it. The rear pulley has grease inside protected by gaskets.
A dry chain lube is always better. Otherwise it attracts dirt, and becomes a grinding paste.
Motorcycles use the engine oil to lubricate the gearbox.
Most newer gearboxes run a GL rated oil.

[adam2]

So the rear cvt pulley where the clutch is located, should that inner part be packed with grease, or just lightly greased?

[aeroxbud]

Jan 31, 2021 23:02:14 GMT -5 adam2 said:

So the rear cvt pulley where the clutch is located, should that inner part be packed with grease, or just lightly greased?

Brent has done a good guide here. 49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/357

[df41590]

One thing not covered in Brent's guide posted by Aeroxbud is lubing the needle bearing on the inside of the clutch assembly. You don't need to pack the inside full just a good gob pushed into the needle bearing will suffice. Also remember to clean any grease on the threads of the input shaft after putting the clutch back on to the bike. www.youtube.com/watch?v=2f-7Q_0GRAI @ 11:18

[adam2]

Thanks! I had put a light coat of high temp grease there, I guess I'll open it up and put a glob! Fortunately, I haven't run it yet. I did notice the needle bearing there and the cover, now I'll know to clean and pack things like that. There was little grease there, and a little on the shaft, and it was almost solid. It may be leaking?

Seems I have to do some things twice or three times to learn! I had to clean the carb 3 times, the third time I learned how to do a thorough job (and got proficient at removing and installing the carb!!!)

[aeroxbud]

It's a learning curve. But at least you know it's done right.

[adam2]

Feb 1, 2021 14:30:10 GMT -5 aeroxbud said:

It's a learning curve. But at least you know it's done right.

I packed the clutch inside (where there's a cylindrical grease cover, the spring goes over the cover), ended up getting lots of grease in the cvt case after a test ride. Either the seals aren't that good, or should not pack those, but use just a light coat! (Brent's video did a light coat, I think)

[aeroxbud]

Did you clean any excess grease off before you installed the spring base?

[adam2]

Feb 17, 2021 17:30:11 GMT -5 aeroxbud said:

Did you clean any excess grease off before you installed the spring base?

Yes, there was only grease inside what was covered. Either it's not sealed well on mine, or you're not supposed to pack it, just enough for the thing to slide in and out, and a little by the pins that go into the shaft sides. The pins get covered well.