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Post by dexameth on Mar 23, 2021 6:00:05 GMT -5
Dexameth, do you have a vacuum operated petcock? If so, where on your intake path are you drawing vacuum from? And how big is your vacuum port/hose that runs to the petcock? I bypassed all vacuum. Gravity feed fuel system with all new lines, and I removed the fuel filter for testing. Same issue after the change over. |
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Post by dexameth on Mar 23, 2021 6:02:52 GMT -5
Does anything else electrical flutter when this is happening? Have you ridden at night to see if lights are rock steady or wobbly? So I redid the entire electric system. Stock was DC fired CDI and I swapped to the Hoca mini flywheel and stator and it runs AC CDI. It ran great for a while after the conversion. Then I started blowing head gaskets... Got that sorted out and now this issue. To answer your question, no. Nothing flickers, tachometer doesn't bounce around (got that with failing CDIs before). Electrical seems healthy. |
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Post by dexameth on Mar 23, 2021 6:04:18 GMT -5
That sounds more like a mixture issue than spark to me, but you can run about 1/2 the plug gap if you still suspect the ignition. Usually these are something like 0.024-0.028" gap, so you'd set it to 0.012-0.014" and see if it runs better. That's not to say you should then run the gap that way all of the time, but it's telling you something isn't quite right with the ignition system. I would try some jetting changes and see if you can clear it up and check float height. If you try a larger main jet and it gets worse or happens more quickly after you go WOT, that may be telling you that it's running down the fuel in the bowl too quickly (supply or float height). This kind of thing can also happen with piston ring issues, so if all else fails you may want to do a compression test and/or take a look. I did down jet before I parked it last, and this time when I fired it up and rode it, felt weak. Went from 110 to 115 and it felt better, but the issue was still there. No different at all. I'll try the plug gap, didn't think about that but I'll see what happens. |
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Post by dexameth on Mar 23, 2021 6:06:54 GMT -5
Guys it dawned on me on the middle of the night...
The weird noice I heard like reed flutter is probably another blown head gasket.
When I came back from my last test ride the idle hung for a few seconds and then came down and stalled.
Guess I'm pulling the head next to see... I may need to bite the bullet and lower the compression.
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Post by jackrides on Mar 23, 2021 11:36:36 GMT -5
Try a pressure test on the bottom end.
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Post by dexameth on Mar 29, 2021 10:53:43 GMT -5
Try a pressure test on the bottom end. I don't have any tools to do so. |
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Post by dexameth on Mar 29, 2021 11:05:46 GMT -5
So I finally had time to do some more testing. I was able to pop the head off but no blown gasket. I swapped it anyway for a fresh one. Went for a ride, same cutting out.
Checked my stator, it was almost full retard so I clocked it to almost full advance. No markings on the stator plate so I'm guessing with ignition timing. After the clocking I test drive, same issue.
This next time I swapped reeds for a Malossi carbon setup with stock sized pedals. Had Polini block with Boyesen dual stage installed. Went for a ride, was definitely snappier on the low end but same issue at top end.
I then swapped for a fresh spark plug and it happened again.
I really, really don't want this to be a stator problem because I'm probably past any warranty now after all this time troubleshooting.
I think I've lost my mind with this one.
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Post by rocketbooster on Mar 29, 2021 11:41:13 GMT -5
check the gap beetwin pickup coil, and wiring. Try another earth to ignition coil.
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Post by captincvmn on Mar 29, 2021 11:49:52 GMT -5
Is the key in “Valet Mode?”
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Post by dexameth on Mar 29, 2021 12:27:28 GMT -5
check the gap beetwin pickup coil, and wiring. Try another earth to ignition coil. I swapped the coil to a 2 wire from a 1 wore which requires an external ground, so that's taken care of. I'm going to check pickup gap as soon as this rain passes. |
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Post by dexameth on Mar 29, 2021 12:28:11 GMT -5
Is the key in “Valet Mode?” Key? Haha no key on this bike. Just a kill/run switch for the engine and a flip switch for the 12v. |
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Post by jackrides on Mar 29, 2021 18:04:40 GMT -5
A crankcase pressure tester can be cobbed together at home with a few parts and work. The intake and exhaust have to be blocked, with one of them having a small pipe fitting screwed to a t fitting with a gage on top, 10 psi is fine, and an on/off valve, then a fitting to add up to 10PSI air from anything including a bicycle pump. The valve could be a small hose with visegrips as the on/off. Carb blocking could be a piece of thin metal between the manifold and the head, greased. Similar thing on the exhaust, the header pipe could even be in line with the cap on the end, Whatever is easiest. Intake alternative: a rubber stopper in place of the carb clamped tight. When pressurized, spray all connections with soapy water to check for leaks and see how long it holds. Good luck!
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Post by 65grendel on Nov 9, 2021 11:16:10 GMT -5
Did you ever solve this??
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Post by dexameth on Nov 9, 2021 12:36:40 GMT -5
Dude so weird you brought this back up... I just got it fired up yesterday after sitting this entire time. She ripped the font wheel off the ground with ease!
Still, same issue. Added a fuel pump and upjetted to 120 main. Same issue.
I am wondering if I need to retime it... Like maybe its too advanced?
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Post by captincvmn on Nov 9, 2021 12:41:00 GMT -5
I had weird running issues and swapped coils. Problem went away.
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