identifying internal engine noise

[1quikvento]

Hey guys n gals- its been a few weeks. I recently stumbled upon a eurostrada rx8 with a 1E40QMB in it for pretty cheap, that i couldnt turn it down. Splitting image of my triton, only yellow. Dude said it wasnt running, but after an hour and a half of going thru things and a little ether, she started right up.

1st thing I noticed was a heavy amount of smoke coming from the pipe. next was that it seems that one or more of the crank bearings is making a racket.Sorry for the story, but i like to give as much detail as possible so I can get the best answers for my questions.

Not sure why it would smoke that bad- im hoping that its just oil that needs to burn off. the bearing noise tho- I was wondering- Do you know how if you take the reed block out of a mina and theres two holes, one on each side of the cases that lead to the bearing races(im thinking for purposes of lubrication)? Is it common practice to squeeze some kinda lubricant in those holes so a dry crank has a chance to lube up and perhaps dull any noise they may be making?

And is it possible to replace the conrod bearing? I have a replacement crank sitting around with the bearings still on it. Id like to replace them though. Does anyone kno a good method to get the bearings off the crank? i looked thru the tech section and couldnt come up with anything. Theres really no room for a puller since they slide all the way on..

Sorry for the drawn out post. Basically what id like to know, Is what kinda lube could i use to pour down those two holes to help quiet the noise. And would that even help? If i put a few drops of 2t oil down there and the noise gets quieter, then i know its the crank bearings, right? and if i lube the conrod bearing while the cage is out and noise gets quieter...

Im gonna be posting some pics of my new project soon. She's got a cool pipe on her, it being stock and all. I expected it to be loud but its real quiet.scoots a 2007 so its got air injection crap and prolly a converter in it.. gonna give it some fresh paint, rebuild the engine a lil, and she should be fun..

[stepthrutuner]

I'm not a Mina guy and I have no idea of the holes of which you speak. Otherwise a crank throw pin has to be pressed out, the new bearing/rod installed as the pin is pressed back in, and the wheels have to be clearanced and trued.... best left to a shop with facilities and knowledge to do the job.

[90GTVert]

I have a hell of a time trying to find internal noises in these little things. I've tried moving around and using a mechanic's stethoscope before, but it always sounds like the noise comes from everywhere to me.

The bearings should be getting oiled via those passages you see from the oil in the incoming mixture. You could add a little 2T oil in them if it's apart now, but they really should be lubricated already since the engine's been running. If you add oil and it feels smoother and/or it quiets that could mean it's the bearings. I'd turn it over by hand and see if I could tell a difference before putting it all back together.

You can replace the bearings on the crankshaft. I've used heat before to remove a set just to do it. I just heated the center of the bearing with a propane torch and eventually I could work it off. You might be able to get a bearing puller on them if it's the right kind. Never tried. I've always been replacing a whole crank.

www.harborfreight.com/bearing-separator-and-puller-set-93980.html

If you need to replace the big end bearing (the conrod end inside the crank) it'll probably end up easier to replace the whole crank.

[reveeen]

Usually, if fubared, the crank bearings (start) making a lot of heat. The same goes for the big end (rod) bearing, you will see discoloration on the rod, if the excessive play is not evident.

[1quikvento]

Im curious to know, what kind of replacement cranks have you guys had good luck with? I've looked online at the various different options available for stock spec cranks, but when it comes down to it, I wouldnt be sure which one to choose. Prolly end up being the cheapest one, but whatcha think? Will Brent point me towards the hoca crank? Or how about those ebay ones(autotech i think) that come with bearings and all?

[90GTVert]

lol Nothing wrong with a Hoca, but I really don't know which stocker is best. I've used the big Ruima cranks from Autotech in my strokers and they are pretty nice. Some of his kits are a good deal too, even including new seals. There are stock stroke cranks out there that are much better made to support the stress of higher RPM and HP output, but you'll also pay much more.

[1quikvento]

i had tore the motor out this weekend, and found that the main bearing on the stator side was fubar'd. the outside part that keeps the bearings in place was completely gone and started to shred that seal and the inside of the case. the damage was very minimal and the race was fine. but i got the engine mounted and running last night. took me bout 20 minutes. i was hurrying cuz daylight is precious now.

Now she's quiet and im glad i did a good job pressing the crank in. There still seems to be a good bit of smoke coming from the exhaust. Im gonna swap exhausts and see if it goes away, cuz i think theres shit in the pipe thats burning off. lot of white stuff in there, like oil mixed with moisture.

Now moving onto an electrical issue.. i gotta post a different thread about this one though..