sunia
Scoot Junior
Posts: 17
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Post by sunia on Sept 28, 2021 22:59:45 GMT -5
Hey fellow scooterists, a few months ago my neighbor reached out to me asking if I would take a PGO two stroke scooter off of his hands. I gladly accepted the offer as I’ve never had the opportunity to own and wrench on a two stroke and quickly got to work diagnosing and fixing a few minor issues. Just needed fresh gas a charged battery and it was good to go, the electric starter got it running real quick. It had a Naraku 47mm cyl but with a 50cc combustion head with a NGK BP6HS plug, but other than that everything else is still stock for this scoot. I say “had” only because I ordered an SSP-G 54mm JOG bore for this motor, as well as a TPR 44mm stroke full circle crank. Currently taking it slow and holding off on buying a larger carburetor for now as the bike came with a genuine model PB 19mm Keihin carb and what I believe to be a unrestricted tecnigas sport or silent sport exhaust. Those factors combined with the stock gearing ratio being 13:1 and a 13” rear tire I think it’d be cool to try a lower rpm very high torque setup just for fun since it’s a lot easier with what I have, and to experiment and see how I like it. I will post some pictures of my progress so far with fitting the crankshaft inside the case.
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Post by Zino on Sept 29, 2021 7:25:44 GMT -5
Welcome to the forum
Good to have you aboard .
The Genuine Roughouse is a rebadged PGO so you have a few builders to compare notes with .
They are a solid scoot .
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Post by aeroxbud on Sept 29, 2021 13:13:58 GMT -5
Should be a really fun bike. That BP6HS Didn't sound right for the old cylinder. But that doesn't matter now.  |
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sunia
Scoot Junior
Posts: 17
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Post by sunia on Oct 3, 2021 2:26:51 GMT -5
 The crankshaft can now rotate freely within both case halves. Ill cut the cases to match the cylinder skirts and ports sometime this coming week but I should definitely read up more on the process before I start. It was easier than I thought it would be to get the crank to fit in the cases but that’s more of a straightforward guided process compared to porting / trenching for me. I’m excited to get this cylinder fitted and I have to constantly remind myself to cool it on anticipating how fun it’ll be to finally get this thing started. Still a ways to go before then although! |
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sunia
Scoot Junior
Posts: 17
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Post by sunia on Oct 6, 2021 22:55:38 GMT -5
  After going at it for two separate 2 ish hour sessions I was able to slide the cylinder all the way down onto it’s base. I really enjoy using the rotary tool as I gain experience using it but with my current living situation I’ve been resorting to cutting in my bathroom and it’s been making the process tiresome and dreadful to say at the least. I have to clean up my mess real good after each session and my working position is just sitting cross legged on the concrete floor with the halves in my lap or in front of me. I would take my things downstairs to my complex’s parking lot and work there but since this is my first time doing this I know it’s going to take me a while and I just don’t want to irritate anyone down there while I take my time and figure out slowly what needs to be done. Also important to note that I really lucked out with this crank/ cylinder combo because this whole time I have been worried about the top of the piston sitting wayyy above the Ports at bdc meaning the cylinder base would need to be machines down or something and I don’t have the tools or money to do that lol. A 1mm thick base gasket did the trick to line things up better, the pictures above show how the piston sits at its highest and lowest points in the bore. Next on the to do list is trying to direct airflow into the ports and create a nice smooth path for air to travel along the way. I cant friggin wait to get this thing started up!! I also was wondering if anyone knows if it’s possible to buy any 5 pole stator armature coil and to rewire those connectors to my wiring harness hookup. I accidentally severed a winding or two on the old one when I was figuring out how to remove the flywheel lol. thank you for reading, I truly appreciate everyone on this wonderful forum and all the collective knowledge everyone brings to the table here. This is an awesome place that feels very welcoming to a newbie like me, especially when a lot of people in the scooter community here on Oahu, Hawaii seem to enjoy watching newcomers struggle and will misguide them, take advantage and in general don’t want to help in advancing their knowledge. at least just from my rather limited experience with these kinds of people. |
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Post by Zino on Oct 7, 2021 7:51:11 GMT -5
Looks good
Plenty of us have had to build theses scoots up on our Kitchen Table or basement .
You have room to go with a little thicker base gasket to get bdc piston crown to be just before the exhaust port and dead even with the transfer ports .
This way you max out the port timing .
When you are all bolted up and check squish you may have to decide if you want maxxed out ports or better squish .
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sunia
Scoot Junior
Posts: 17
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Post by sunia on Oct 11, 2021 16:32:02 GMT -5
 Didn’t know that this was even possible haha oh well. The collets that came with this cheap rotary tool kit really suck it’s like they are made of plastic. |
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Post by woodini on Oct 11, 2021 17:08:03 GMT -5
That’s a tiny rotary tool!
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sunia
Scoot Junior
Posts: 17
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Post by sunia on Apr 22, 2022 15:15:41 GMT -5
Hey you all, Sorry for not concluding this thread I got discouraged once I realized these particular engines have a unique crankshaft compared to other horizontal minarellis.
I ended up just throwing in a top racing HPC crankshaft and a 70cc stage 6 streetrace. One modification I tried out was to alter the stock flanged intake to accept carbs that arent flange mount, I just hacked off the flanged part, smoothed things out and put a tight fitting rubber boot with hose clamps to mount a polini cp 21 carburator. Leanest needle settings and a 100 main jet, it ran pretty awesome. Then i tried out the NCY racing intake and things got weird, i expected to need to make things richer but it seems like the opposite somehow. I cant quite explain how it effected things but it made the low/ midrange feel very zippy and responsive while WOT was quite boggy sounding with a deeper tone than with the more restricted OEM intake. With this setup I decided to try out the yasuni c16 i got and once again was very surprised when i didnt need to change the carburation settings, same lean needle position and 100 main and it SCREAMS at WOT once you get past 7.5-8k rpm, and the exhaust smells much more thoroughly burnt than with the stocker pipe which left a slightly noticeable gassy stench. I plan to use the abandoned crank and bore for another engine case I got from a rexy 50, i will add that project to the build list soon once i really get started.
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sunia
Scoot Junior
Posts: 17
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Post by sunia on Apr 22, 2022 15:15:55 GMT -5
Hey you all, Sorry for not concluding this thread I got discouraged once I realized these particular engines have a unique crankshaft compared to other horizontal minarellis.
I ended up just throwing in a top racing HPC crankshaft and a 70cc stage 6 streetrace. One modification I tried out was to alter the stock flanged intake to accept carbs that arent flange mount, I just hacked off the flanged part, smoothed things out and put a tight fitting rubber boot with hose clamps to mount a polini cp 21 carburator. Leanest needle settings and a 100 main jet, it ran pretty awesome. Then i tried out the NCY racing intake and things got weird, i expected to need to make things richer but it seems like the opposite somehow. I cant quite explain how it effected things but it made the low/ midrange feel very zippy and responsive while WOT was quite boggy sounding with a deeper tone than with the more restricted OEM intake. With this setup I decided to try out the yasuni c16 i got and once again was very surprised when i didnt need to change the carburation settings, same lean needle position and 100 main and it SCREAMS at WOT once you get past 7.5-8k rpm, and the exhaust smells much more thoroughly burnt than with the stocker pipe which left a slightly noticeable gassy stench. I plan to use the abandoned crank and bore for another engine case I got from a rexy 50, i will add that project to the build list soon once i really get started.
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Post by 808ministroke on Apr 22, 2022 16:08:53 GMT -5
Hey you all, Sorry for not concluding this thread I got discouraged once I realized these particular engines have a unique crankshaft compared to other horizontal minarellis. I ended up just throwing in a top racing HPC crankshaft and a 70cc stage 6 streetrace. One modification I tried out was to alter the stock flanged intake to accept carbs that arent flange mount, I just hacked off the flanged part, smoothed things out and put a tight fitting rubber boot with hose clamps to mount a polini cp 21 carburator. Leanest needle settings and a 100 main jet, it ran pretty awesome. Then i tried out the NCY racing intake and things got weird, i expected to need to make things richer but it seems like the opposite somehow. I cant quite explain how it effected things but it made the low/ midrange feel very zippy and responsive while WOT was quite boggy sounding with a deeper tone than with the more restricted OEM intake. With this setup I decided to try out the yasuni c16 i got and once again was very surprised when i didnt need to change the carburation settings, same lean needle position and 100 main and it SCREAMS at WOT once you get past 7.5-8k rpm, and the exhaust smells much more thoroughly burnt than with the stocker pipe which left a slightly noticeable gassy stench. I plan to use the abandoned crank and bore for another engine case I got from a rexy 50, i will add that project to the build list soon once i really get started. hey is this the guy that bought a rexy block of me that lives off of Kapiolani street by university intersection? |
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