DR Evolution 70cc

[ghostaroni]

Parts List


¤70CC DR Evolution Racing Cylinder

¤Full Circle Crank Top Performance

¤Yasuni R exhaust

¤Top Performance Variator
(4.5gram sliders)

¤Malossi MHR Clutch and Bell

¤CP21 carb
(30° slide, 14/22 needle, 40pilot, 112 main)

¤s23 intake manifold

¤Yamaha stator and ignition

¤Malossi CDI

¤s23 FiberGlass reeds

¤Malossi Crank Seals


Top Speed as of now 55mph,
With room to go.
(i have an airleak(wasnt an airleak; turned out to be a leak by the exhaust silencer whistling) and need to change to a bigger intake manifold,
Then I need to change my throttle slide from 30° to 40°)

[pili]

Sounds good. Responsive.

[ghostaroni]

May 1, 2022 13:48:11 GMT -5 pili said:

Sounds good. Responsive.

Its a dog
I think I need to upgear lmao

[Zino]

Go For it The Gears would push you over 60 mph .

Gears were my cheapest Top speed addon
I just had to drop weights a notch so I had the same shift points in the transmission

[ghostaroni]

May 3, 2022 7:07:05 GMT -5 Zino said:

Go For it The Gears would push you over 60 mph .

Gears were my cheapest Top speed addon
I just had to drop weights a notch so I had the same shift points in the transmission

I was gunna go up on slider weights;
Thank you for saving me time and stress.

Im at 4.5 gram sliders rn and I will definitely upgear.
Then im going straight to the speed list.

boo yah

[ghostaroni]

[ghostaroni]

Update:
A broken piston pin clip has destroyed the poor cylinder...

Shame too,
Cylinder was breaking in nicely.

I'll be back!

[repherence2]

get a cylinder head temperature gauge too.

i giggled when i read "cylinder was breaking in". i giggled because i am from the opposite end of spectrum when it comes to "breaking in" bore kits. i used to do break in cycles because that is what i read about on the internet forums. one day, i asked a mechanic/tuner about his break in process and he said, "I do a hard break in to seat the rings." it just made so much sense to me that ever since then, now i only do hard break ins. my coworker who rode a Yamaha street bike is also a firm believer in the hard break in to seat the rings, he did a hard break in when his street bike was brand new from the dealership. to me, it just makes so much more sense; if im setting up an engine to be able to go WOT for long duration as a daily rider, i might as well seat the rings at full RPM from the get go. to each, their own.

but a CHT gauge just makes tuning the carb so much easier. it also helps prevent soft seizes and/or burning holes in your piston. it takes the guess work and plug reading out of carb tuning/jetting. i just tune for 350*F at wide open throttle. that is how i set my main jet and that is when i break it in. once i find a main jet that can keep me at 350*F WOT, it becomes the break in phase. once i find the main jet that keeps me at that temperature, it is balls to walls holding WOT for long distances. 350*F is a "safe" region and it provides for reliability as well. you can easily tune to the hotter/leaner side of 400*F if you know what you are doing and you understand the Edge of reliability and unreliability. the Honda guys with Polini Corsa bores have gone over 400*F.

all i am saying is this, get a CHT gauge and tune to your heart's content. at least you can monitor (somewhat real-time) what is going on with your engine (fueling). fueling = cooling. cooling = reliability/longevity.


--do you happen to recall the orientation of the the clip when you installed it? as in, was it positioned like and "m" or like a "c" or "E".

[ghostaroni]

May 18, 2022 23:09:20 GMT -5 repherence2 said:

get a cylinder head temperature gauge too.

i giggled when i read "cylinder was breaking in". i giggled because i am from the opposite end of spectrum when it comes to "breaking in" bore kits. i used to do break in cycles because that is what i read about on the internet forums. one day, i asked a mechanic/tuner about his break in process and he said, "I do a hard break in to seat the rings." it just made so much sense to me that ever since then, now i only do hard break ins. my coworker who rode a Yamaha street bike is also a firm believer in the hard break in to seat the rings, he did a hard break in when his street bike was brand new from the dealership. to me, it just makes so much more sense; if im setting up an engine to be able to go WOT for long duration as a daily rider, i might as well seat the rings at full RPM from the get go. to each, their own.

but a CHT gauge just makes tuning the carb so much easier. it also helps prevent soft seizes and/or burning holes in your piston. it takes the guess work and plug reading out of carb tuning/jetting. i just tune for 350*F at wide open throttle. that is how i set my main jet and that is when i break it in. once i find a main jet that can keep me at 350*F WOT, it becomes the break in phase. once i find the main jet that keeps me at that temperature, it is balls to walls holding WOT for long distances. 350*F is a "safe" region and it provides for reliability as well. you can easily tune to the hotter/leaner side of 400*F if you know what you are doing and you understand the Edge of reliability and unreliability. the Honda guys with Polini Corsa bores have gone over 400*F.

all i am saying is this, get a CHT gauge and tune to your heart's content. at least you can monitor (somewhat real-time) what is going on with your engine (fueling). fueling = cooling. cooling = reliability/longevity.


--do you happen to recall the orientation of the the clip when you installed it? as in, was it positioned like and "m" or like a "c" or "E".

rest assured I made sure to beat on this one within reason from the get.

I have learned that the best way to break in an engine is to beat it, but not like it owes me money.

full throttle for 3 seconds, winds down, full throttle 3 seconds, wind down, etcetc. I do that for 5 minutes then I turn the engine off to let it cool, then its beating from there.


I will reinstall my temp gauge,
And eventually get a non cheap one.(I use the temp gauge as a tuning tool only cause I think they look goofy.
I was hitting about 340°f WOT.

I had the C part facing upwards,
If that matters.

[Zino]

C up or down is better than side ways .
I mounted my trail tech temp gauge on the vino's right under the speedometer.
I zipped tied it tight it looks like it belongs there .

You got all the supporting parts to go up a class in cylinder above the DR.
So if you want to upgrade now is the time .

[ghostaroni]

May 19, 2022 7:56:25 GMT -5 Zino said:

C up or down is better than side ways .
I mounted my trail tech temp gauge on the vino's right under the speedometer.
I zipped tied it tight it looks like it belongs there .

You got all the supporting parts to go up a class in cylinder above the DR.
So if you want to upgrade now is the time .

Recommend me a cylinder (:

[ghostaroni]

I have decided that after I blow up a reconditioned cylinder I had laying around;
I am going to buy an MHR replica cylinder.

[aeroxbud]

That's a great cylinder. Nice amount of power.
Probably about as far as you could go on a daily rider and not have to constantly dig into the motor.