03 zuma restricted top speed

[zumadestroyer420]

okay so i have a 2003 yamaha zuma 50 i got it stock rode it home 36 was the top speed but it was also 30 degrees cold as a mf but next day looped it trying to wheelie by holding the brake and revving it up then wheeling after it was looped in a feild it started to only go 30-33 it was like that for a minute cause i couldn’t figure out what was going on then the stock airbox one of the tabs broke off and i plastic welded it back on but it didn’t align right so i just used one tab and i also lost the thing that keeps airbox on the carb so it was halfway on the carb for the longest then it broke off again and broke that tab and there’s a massive hole in it now so i got this pod filter from my friend and it ran alright still about 30 then that started disintegrating so i had no choice but to run no air filter for a little bit and it of course ran like absolute shit but recently i got an arrow spy 50 pipe and i got the motoforce variator kit i tried the 6g rollers and i changed them to 5.5 cause it needed lighter weights and i duct taped rigged the airbox up it goes a good 35 it’s quick to get there too but i still need lower weights so i plan on buying 4’s or 4.5 and doing 3 of those and 3 5.5 so hopefully that’ll get me where i want to be i also have jets everytime i clean my carb i always forget to check what main jet i have but i have 70-115 jets go up by 5 so i think i’ll be good but i’m tired of this airbox shit i know everybody says the airbox is the key to these and i know and i’ve tried i bought the side of the airbox with the tabs and it still hasn’t shipped it’s been a week so i’m just gonna return and get a pod filter for now until i can get more money to get an airbox but i haven’t rejetted the carb yet cause it’s so damn hard to get that carb in and out my hose clamp for the carb is basically broke won’t tighten or loosen but what i think i need is lighter roller weights rejet carb well really i need a new carb also when i start it i have to keep revving it up even if the idle it fine it will literally just die anyways it’s gotta deal with how the carb is tuned tho but i just hate tuning it cause it’s so hard getting the carb out but here soon once i get the pod filter i’m gonna tune it right that really might even be the only issue but i really just want to know how i went from 36 to 30 i also think the clutch is shot from doing that wheelie shit cause there’s 2 fat ass blue burnt marks on it but really what i’m looking for out of this is a cheap reliable 40-50 mph also if you have a ruckus and also have a cheap reliable build for 40-50 lmk my friend just got a ruckus

[aeroxbud]

Hose clamps for carbs are cheap. Not getting the jetting right could be expensive. It must be running really lean.

[sinfull]

Welcome to the forum 😀

Cheap and reliable are 2 words that don't go together. Start by planning your goals and get a idea of what it is going to cost, off the top of my head, 40 to 50 mph reliable, budget about 800.00 ish, sport kit and a pipe with a few other tweaks.

The ruckus is going to take a little more, looking at gy6 swap to get there, figure engine, harness, mount and a carb, probably a little more all said and done.

Sorry if this isn't what you wanted to hear but it is real, trying to make something go double the speed it was built for is not cheap and reliable

[zumadestroyer420]

Mar 7, 2023 3:17:02 GMT -5 aeroxbud said:

Hose clamps for carbs are cheap. Not getting the jetting right could be expensive. It must be running really lean.

i turned the air screw all the way in so it’s hopefully not gonna seize

[Zino]

First law of Scootertuning Change one thing at a time so you can retrace your steps .
You are skipping around too much .

If you want to save the most trouble get the carb jetting set to a safe level for whatever you are going to use for air filter or air box .

reference the faq
www.49ccscoot.com/faq/carbtune.html

Cvt tuning and carb tuning can push the same symptoms so moving both around at once cause major problems
Because bad carb tuning van blow up your engine fix that first

[zumadestroyer420]

now i have a 95 main jet in with the pipe and no air filter seems to run good except it gets in the powerband from 3-5 mph to 15 then revs down at 20 and when it hits 25 it zooms up to 35-38 on flat ground sometimes like i said i only installed a variator kit with 5.5 rollers nothing to do with the clutch what would be my next move i’m thinking clutch springs and contra also i might be thinking about getting a big bore soon not sure but was also thinking maybe i can order lighter roller weights also i’m trying to wheelie as well so what would help me wheelie

[repherence2]

Mar 19, 2023 22:34:47 GMT -5 zumadestroyer420 said:

now i have a 95 main jet in with the pipe and no air filter seems to run good except it gets in the powerband from 3-5 mph to 15 then revs down at 20 and when it hits 25 it zooms up to 35-38 on flat ground sometimes like i said i only installed a variator kit with 5.5 rollers nothing to do with the clutch what would be my next move i’m thinking clutch springs and contra also i might be thinking about getting a big bore soon not sure but was also thinking maybe i can order lighter roller weights also i’m trying to wheelie as well so what would help me wheelie

stoney guy, you are moving a little too fast.

1.  you need to look into buying a "tuning roller kit".  it comes with different weights to help you dial in you variator faster.  however, the plastic sleeves on the rollers are not durable and are not meant for constant use.  they are just used to help you find the total weight set the performs/shifts to your liking.  once you zero in with tuning rollers and find the total weight setting that you like, then you buy genuine rollers in that specific weight. you probably going to have to do some math, i think tuning roller sets only have 3 rollers of each gram weight, so you test with 3 rollers instead of the normal 6 rollers.  $20-$36.

2.  look into buying jet kits that go in 2 point increments.  5 point increments is okay for quick-and-dirty means of getting it to run, but you will never achieve optimal performance if you are running jets that go in increments of 5 instead of 2.  buy a Main jet kit and a Pilot jet it in increments of 2.  Polini pilot kit $30.  Polini main kit $30.

3.  you should invest in an adjustable clutch.  if not, if you seek Wheelies, you need springs that are stiff enough for your clutch to engage at the RPM where your bore kit is about to peak, and that is going to be an RPM that is higher than stock clutch and stock springs.  stay on the "cheaper" side, you will be having to pull springs when installing stiffer springs.  if you buy a performance adjustable clutch, you use an Allen wrench to tighten the tension screw to increase pull on the spring and fine tuning the RPM at which the clutch engages.  adjustable clutches like the Malossi Delta, Stage 6 torque control MK I,. or the Polini 3G Evo.  the Oahu Honda elite guys run the Polini Blue springs (7000) on clutches to wheelie, but i think that is on "stock" or KELI heavy/medium clutches.  i tried to pull Malossi MHR Black springs onto a Malossi Fly clutch, that was damn near impossible, but it would have been 7000 like the Polini Blues.  $30 for Polini spring set $40 for Malossi spring set.  clutch $100ish

4.  get some gauges.   invest in a TTO cylinder temp gauge and a TTO tachometer.  it will make tuning your wheelie machine easier.  the Tach will make tuning your clutch and variator more easy.  the Temp Gauge makes tuning/jetting your carburetor easier.  Duck Soup, Nice and Easy.  $50 and $50.

5.  tea strainer with stainless steel mesh.  if you going to run a wide open carb, at least put a tea strainer screen on it.  it is all fun and games until a rock or something hard gets sucked into your carburetor and it destroys your piston and/or rings.  $5

the keys to the wheelie kingdom are now in your hands .