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Post by SocialD on Mar 11, 2023 5:02:18 GMT -5
Hey all,new member here and hopefully my fellow scoot bros can help with their infinite wisdom and talent. I have a 2008 Tank Viaggio 150 that I purchased new back in the day. I haven't driven it in 10 years ,and when I got it out of storage recently it fired right up with only minor issues. The problem is ,it was blowing out headlight bulbs, and even fried the resistor to the auto choke( so I thought was for the choke) . So I replaced the rectifier , bypassed the resistor and put on a manual choke instead since I was planning on doing that anyways. So ,now it turns out that it's not charging the battery which leads me to believe that the resistor I bypassed/ disconnected was for the lights ( as well as the auto choke?) .It's an oddball looking resistor with no markings on it whatsoever, and aluminum cooling fins on it. I haven't seen another one like it anywhere online.Its about half the size of a 'D' battery...or a little smaller than a "funsize" Snickers candy...ya know,the kind you get at Halloween.Anyways, it has two wires going to it, one blue and one red.Does anyone know what the resistance and ohms it should be if in fact it's for the lights? ( one of the reasons I switched to a manual choke)
Any help would be appreciated, it's a 7 pin rectifier with an 11 pole stator.Also, does anyone know what wire goes to what on a 7pin rectifier?
Thank yah, peace and chicken grease.....
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Post by snaker on Mar 11, 2023 10:53:52 GMT -5
Go to Manuals on left of page
There is one for Tank 50-150
The end is cut off but page 14-2 pdf 150 shows the general charging system
Looks very generic for GY6
Unfortunately, its for a 4 pin RR
So...
If you follow the wires from the "thing" it should tell you what it goes to
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Post by snaker on Mar 11, 2023 11:21:42 GMT -5
Here's one 7 pin It's some ones drawing, so ah The white wire is kind of a accessory wire The black wire is the magic black wire Something of a voltage sensor  |
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Mar 11, 2023 11:40:57 GMT -5
Relay in above likely is provided power when the engine is running and charge current/voltage is available. That closes the relay and allows power to turn on the lights once the engine starts. Could be the switch supplies a second feed for energizing voltage to the reg/rec, to possibly disconnect when the switch is open so the battery does not discharge when things are turned to OFF. IOW an internal relay inside the reg/rec.
tom
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Post by SocialD on Mar 11, 2023 13:42:53 GMT -5
Here's one 7 pin It's some ones drawing, so ah The white wire is kind of a accessory wire The black wire is the magic black wire Something of a voltage sensor Thank you for the wiring diagram, it gives me something to work with now 👍. What's interesting is there's nothing connected to that white wire, on the connector it's blank. I'm the original owner so I know that's how it came from the factory. I'm pretty sure it's that mystery ballast resistor....just don't know the value of it |
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Post by SocialD on Mar 11, 2023 13:45:57 GMT -5
Relay in above likely is provided power when the engine is running and charge current/voltage is available. That closes the relay and allows power to turn on the lights once the engine starts. Could be the switch supplies a second feed for energizing voltage to the reg/rec, to possibly disconnect when the switch is open so the battery does not discharge when things are turned to OFF. IOW an internal relay inside the reg/rec. tom In theory it makes logical sense. So what's the bottom line Tom? Lay it on me, I can take it.. |
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Post by SocialD on Mar 12, 2023 5:32:39 GMT -5
 Und, das followed the two wires going to this resistor/relay thingy and as that diagram shows, one goes to constant 12v and the other goes to the headlight switch. So I suppose the body of it grounds to the scooter's frame....ugh, this is an impossible part to find...und me thinks I will have to Macgyver something together. A regular relay will heat up too much...fun times. |
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Mar 12, 2023 8:22:54 GMT -5
The finned item in the above picture is not likely a relay. In general, relays do not get hot enough to need a finned heat dissipator(sink). OTOH, if wired as in the diagram, it could be a relay that routes power to the lights after the engine starts(but the white wire is not connected per comment). If the white wire is not connected to the reg/rec, then it could be a relay that blocks power to the lights until the switch is turned to ON. Most that I know of turn on the lights (headlight) once the engine starts. The other lights are enabled when the key is turned to ON. A normal relay (instead of a solid-state relay as this may be) should not get hot passing the current for the headlights. A little poking around got this: www.manualslib.com/manual/823814/Tank-Touring-Deluxe-150cc.html?page=37#manualpage 38 has a schematic... duck duck got me to this which led to the above: www.manualslib.com/manual/974241/Tank-Viaggio-150.html?page=3#do a bit of looking... closely... or fumble around like I do. tom |
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Post by snaker on Mar 12, 2023 11:25:40 GMT -5
Grumpyunk
Looks like its quite different then this one
Diagram shows a single phase, full wave stator and a 5 pin RR
I can't make out much of the text
I did see something labeled as a "automatic valve"?
Could be autochoke or light ballast?
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Post by snaker on Mar 12, 2023 11:29:28 GMT -5
Hey all,new member here and hopefully my fellow scoot bros can help with their infinite wisdom and talent. I have a 2008 Tank Viaggio 150 that I purchased new back in the day. I haven't driven it in 10 years ,and when I got it out of storage recently it fired right up with only minor issues. The problem is ,it was blowing out headlight bulbs, and even fried the resistor to the auto choke( so I thought was for the choke) . So I replaced the rectifier , bypassed the resistor and put on a manual choke instead since I was planning on doing that anyways. So ,now it turns out that it's not charging the battery which leads me to believe that the resistor I bypassed/ disconnected was for the lights ( as well as the auto choke?) .It's an oddball looking resistor with no markings on it whatsoever, and aluminum cooling fins on it. I haven't seen another one like it anywhere online.Its about half the size of a 'D' battery...or a little smaller than a "funsize" Snickers candy...ya know,the kind you get at Halloween.Anyways, it has two wires going to it, one blue and one red.Does anyone know what the resistance and ohms it should be if in fact it's for the lights? ( one of the reasons I switched to a manual choke) Any help would be appreciated, it's a 7 pin rectifier with an 11 pole stator.Also, does anyone know what wire goes to what on a 7pin rectifier? Thank yah, peace and chicken grease..... How did you know what RR to use as a replacement? Was the 11 pole stator the original? |
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Post by SocialD on Mar 12, 2023 13:46:53 GMT -5
Hey all,new member here and hopefully my fellow scoot bros can help with their infinite wisdom and talent. I have a 2008 Tank Viaggio 150 that I purchased new back in the day. I haven't driven it in 10 years ,and when I got it out of storage recently it fired right up with only minor issues. The problem is ,it was blowing out headlight bulbs, and even fried the resistor to the auto choke( so I thought was for the choke) . So I replaced the rectifier , bypassed the resistor and put on a manual choke instead since I was planning on doing that anyways. So ,now it turns out that it's not charging the battery which leads me to believe that the resistor I bypassed/ disconnected was for the lights ( as well as the auto choke?) .It's an oddball looking resistor with no markings on it whatsoever, and aluminum cooling fins on it. I haven't seen another one like it anywhere online.Its about half the size of a 'D' battery...or a little smaller than a "funsize" Snickers candy...ya know,the kind you get at Halloween.Anyways, it has two wires going to it, one blue and one red.Does anyone know what the resistance and ohms it should be if in fact it's for the lights? ( one of the reasons I switched to a manual choke) Any help would be appreciated, it's a 7 pin rectifier with an 11 pole stator.Also, does anyone know what wire goes to what on a 7pin rectifier? Thank yah, peace and chicken grease..... How did you know what RR to use as a replacement? Was the 11 pole stator the original? Yup, it's what came with the scoot right out of the crate back in'08.The original had a 7 pin regulator without using the 7th pin and that's what I replaced it with.I bought it new and never touched this electrical stuff before....real janky wiring btw, they used electrical tape instead of heat shrink on most connections,lol Ahhh, but replacing whatever that thing is shall be a royal pain in my ruckus .What I would like to know is how is this responsible for the system not to charge the battery? If it is a solid state relay, then when energized it connects the black and red wire from the rectifier together, and together they create pure magic. |
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Post by SocialD on Mar 12, 2023 23:08:09 GMT -5
I would like to give a shout out to my man snaker & GrumpyUnk for their help; it gave me something to go on. I got this old Tank up and running once again. For any future readers/ owners of Tank scoots with this same weird setup, this is what I did since the part is non-existent anymore . I took a beefy 40 amp solid state relay that can handle a little heat which has an input voltage range of 3-32v to handle any spikes. I took that unused white accessory wire from the regulator and used it as the (+) input for the relay, and ran a wire to ground for the (-) input. Red wire formally connected to weird old part that had constant 12v went to "common", and blue wire that went to the light switch went to "normally open" . Or , in other words,one on one side of relay and the other wire on the other side. Once running, the voltage from the white wire turns on the solid state relay which connects the two wires formally connected to the old part together, and vola! Works like a charm. Battery is getting charged, everything is under normal voltage, and the relay only gets a little warm to the touch after a long test drive of 30 miles with the lights on.
Until next time with the next problem amigos, adios.
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