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Post by classacted on Jul 23, 2023 11:17:51 GMT -5
for me, changing a cdi to try out is not even a 5 minute job. the same thing for a coil. my parts are all stock, tested and labelled so there is no guess work. I have one of those 'performance cdi' units that delivered the same performance as the stock cdi.
not only that, but I prefer swapping parts out because I've seen parts that the resistance was out of spec but still provided service reliably, and I've seen the opposite, parts that the resistance was within spec, and they wouldn't work.
did you ever check for water in the gas?
blockage at the exhaust port could cause that, but you seem to not have enough carbon buildup at this time.
do you think it's possible that a hot wire could be shorting somewhere?
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Post by RyanWiltshire on Jul 23, 2023 11:30:26 GMT -5
for me, changing a cdi to try out is not even a 5 minute job. the same thing for a coil. my parts are all stock, tested and labelled so there is no guess work. I have one of those 'performance cdi' units that delivered the same performance as the stock cdi. not only that, but I prefer swapping parts out because I've seen parts that the resistance was out of spec but still provided service reliably, and I've seen the opposite, parts that the resistance was within spec, and they wouldn't work. did you ever check for water in the gas? blockage at the exhaust port could cause that, but you seem to not have enough carbon buildup at this time. do you think it's possible that a hot wire could be shorting somewhere? standard CDI wouldn't work for 70cc as it's only producing a x amount of RPM, limited if you will. if I put a standard OEM CDI on to my aerox/70cc, I would not get the correct RPM needed or limited. if you're on 50cc, OEM is fine but I wouldn't put a stock cdi on my bike. I really want to know if he's fixed the issue now or given up as I would love to know what he did. |
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Post by wallzip on Jul 23, 2023 12:06:36 GMT -5
I think about 100 km? Its not very old or a lot used for riding (only tested a lot). A few km ago i demounted the cylinder to check it and there was no carbon build up at all. Piston head was nice clear. The strange thing is despite trying different main jets etc. my sparkplug stays light grey which is not really a good sign of ignition. I'm increasingly doubting whether the CDI can handle the RPMs. It is a fixed CDI (yellow one from Top Performances) Would a variable CDI work better? I read that these are much more suitable for engines running above 10k rpm but i'm not sure. I just read what you have already tried and I see you have tried most things. have you check the piston/ring etc? when you changed the CDI, was the bike working fine before or when you changed it, it started to do the spluttering? The piston and ring etc. looks fine too. Before i did a engine upgrade i had a 50cc stage 6 racing and a 17.5mm dellorto, polini vario, Yasuni R exhaust etc. and never had problems. After the upgrade (new and bigger cylinder 70cc Athena Racing, Athena Racing exhaust, racing crankshaft and bearings, bigger carb etc. the problems started. Right in the beginning with first start and test ride, i had a similar sputter issue but my bike wasnt even go higher then 30 - 40km/h. After that i changed the original ignition to a new one, didnt fix it. I tried another original cdi with bobine, didnt fix it. Than i bought and mounted the Top Performance CDI and that fixed the problem for 80%. So now i can go around 70km/h but the last bit when i full throttle it i get the same sputter as before. Thats like when the engine wants to make its highest rpm's... Here is a video i made two years ago when i had the first sputter issue before i put a TPR CDI on it: |
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Post by wallzip on Jul 23, 2023 12:15:48 GMT -5
for me, changing a cdi to try out is not even a 5 minute job. the same thing for a coil. my parts are all stock, tested and labelled so there is no guess work. I have one of those 'performance cdi' units that delivered the same performance as the stock cdi. not only that, but I prefer swapping parts out because I've seen parts that the resistance was out of spec but still provided service reliably, and I've seen the opposite, parts that the resistance was within spec, and they wouldn't work. did you ever check for water in the gas? blockage at the exhaust port could cause that, but you seem to not have enough carbon buildup at this time. do you think it's possible that a hot wire could be shorting somewhere? standard CDI wouldn't work for 70cc as it's only producing a x amount of RPM, limited if you will. if I put a standard OEM CDI on to my aerox/70cc, I would not get the correct RPM needed or limited. if you're on 50cc, OEM is fine but I wouldn't put a stock cdi on my bike. I really want to know if he's fixed the issue now or given up as I would love to know what he did. Nope its still not fixed as mentioned before. The problem is that i cant keep buying stuff just to make sure that the problem is not that specific part. I love to try another CDI where i'm sure thats not RPM restricted and can provide the correct timing for spark but it cost a lot of money and still not sure if this is the problem. |
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Post by classacted on Jul 23, 2023 12:36:04 GMT -5
I don't know your bike, so I am tossing possibilities out there (as you've seen).
do you have a reed valve? maybe it's not closing off all of the time.
is your vehicle one that has automatic oil, where the 2 cycle oil is pumped either to the carb or the engine block. I had an issue with a suzuki fa50. the oil goes into the block, and it kept running poorly and dieing. after checking the reed valve I noticed oil in the block. I removed the oil and it fixed the problem. the pump was dripping oil while it sat unused and it builds up to a point that the oil drowns out the spark. the vehicle was fine if it was driven often.
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Post by wallzip on Jul 23, 2023 13:09:15 GMT -5
I don't know your bike, so I am tossing possibilities out there (as you've seen). do you have a reed valve? maybe it's not closing off all of the time. is your vehicle one that has automatic oil, where the 2 cycle oil is pumped either to the carb or the engine block. I had an issue with a suzuki fa50. the oil goes into the block, and it kept running poorly and dieing. after checking the reed valve I noticed oil in the block. I removed the oil and it fixed the problem. the pump was dripping oil while it sat unused and it builds up to a point that the oil drowns out the spark. the vehicle was fine if it was driven often. Its a Piaggio Zip 2 stroke. Has no reed valves or things you have on a 4 stroke. Oilpump etc. all removed. Its a two stroke fuel mix, so fuel with oil already mixed and going directly to the carb. I already tried lesser oil etc. but these things are not causing the problem. |
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Post by aeroxbud on Jul 24, 2023 7:15:16 GMT -5
I don't know your bike, so I am tossing possibilities out there (as you've seen). do you have a reed valve? maybe it's not closing off all of the time. is your vehicle one that has automatic oil, where the 2 cycle oil is pumped either to the carb or the engine block. I had an issue with a suzuki fa50. the oil goes into the block, and it kept running poorly and dieing. after checking the reed valve I noticed oil in the block. I removed the oil and it fixed the problem. the pump was dripping oil while it sat unused and it builds up to a point that the oil drowns out the spark. the vehicle was fine if it was driven often. Its a Piaggio Zip 2 stroke. Has no reed valves or things you have on a 4 stroke. Oilpump etc. all removed. Its a two stroke fuel mix, so fuel with oil already mixed and going directly to the carb. I already tried lesser oil etc. but these things are not causing the problem. The reed valve is between the carb and engine block. If the reeds are to soft or worn its possible it's not closing correctly. |
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Post by RyanWiltshire on Jul 24, 2023 11:45:54 GMT -5
I don't know your bike, so I am tossing possibilities out there (as you've seen). do you have a reed valve? maybe it's not closing off all of the time. is your vehicle one that has automatic oil, where the 2 cycle oil is pumped either to the carb or the engine block. I had an issue with a suzuki fa50. the oil goes into the block, and it kept running poorly and dieing. after checking the reed valve I noticed oil in the block. I removed the oil and it fixed the problem. the pump was dripping oil while it sat unused and it builds up to a point that the oil drowns out the spark. the vehicle was fine if it was driven often. Its a Piaggio Zip 2 stroke. Has no reed valves or things you have on a 4 stroke. Oilpump etc. all removed. Its a two stroke fuel mix, so fuel with oil already mixed and going directly to the carb. I already tried lesser oil etc. but these things are not causing the problem. it should have reed block and valves. did you keep the stock reed block and valves in? xD that might be your issue bro. also, anything 2stroke related will have some kind of reed block and valve. you might have some worn out and soft petals / Stock ones. go check mate. it's what sits inside the intake above the manifold/carb |
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Post by wallzip on Jul 24, 2023 13:57:58 GMT -5
Its a Piaggio Zip 2 stroke. Has no reed valves or things you have on a 4 stroke. Oilpump etc. all removed. Its a two stroke fuel mix, so fuel with oil already mixed and going directly to the carb. I already tried lesser oil etc. but these things are not causing the problem. it should have reed block and valves. did you keep the stock reed block and valves in? xD that might be your issue bro. also, anything 2stroke related will have some kind of reed block and valve. you might have some worn out and soft petals / Stock ones. go check mate. it's what sits inside the intake above the manifold/carb Now i ubderstand what you guys mean. Sorry my english is bad. I already took out the valve and checked the carbon reeds, nothing wrong with it. Its a malossi VL13. Manifold also looks good. No cracks or air leakage. |
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Post by RyanWiltshire on Jul 24, 2023 14:04:12 GMT -5
it should have reed block and valves. did you keep the stock reed block and valves in? xD that might be your issue bro. also, anything 2stroke related will have some kind of reed block and valve. you might have some worn out and soft petals / Stock ones. go check mate. it's what sits inside the intake above the manifold/carb Now i ubderstand what you guys mean. Sorry my english is bad. I already took out the valve and checked the carbon reeds, nothing wrong with it. Its a malossi VL13. Manifold also looks good. No cracks or air leakage. have you gone over the bike with a multimeter? to check you're electrical system is all in check? it's wild, as you seem to have done everything. what haven't you checked? |
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Post by wallzip on Jul 24, 2023 16:59:26 GMT -5
Now i ubderstand what you guys mean. Sorry my english is bad. I already took out the valve and checked the carbon reeds, nothing wrong with it. Its a malossi VL13. Manifold also looks good. No cracks or air leakage. have you gone over the bike with a multimeter? to check you're electrical system is all in check? it's wild, as you seem to have done everything. what haven't you checked? I remember that i checked the spools with a multimeter and also the voltage on it while running idle and looked all ok. But still to be sure i did change the whole stator with the pick up for a new one. Didnt fix it. I also put different mass wires from engine to the frame etc. but didnt help either. Also changed the sparkplug cap and cable to a NGK racing C4 one but didnt fix the problem either. I also tried a lower tolerance between central electrode and tip of side electrode of the sparkplug, no change. What i didnt have checked? I think i checked everything a person can think about it. |
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Post by classacted on Jul 24, 2023 17:41:24 GMT -5
promise us that when you do find what is causing this, that you don't vanish into cyberspace. huh? we want to know about it.
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Post by RyanWiltshire on Jul 25, 2023 1:00:36 GMT -5
have you gone over the bike with a multimeter? to check you're electrical system is all in check? it's wild, as you seem to have done everything. what haven't you checked? I remember that i checked the spools with a multimeter and also the voltage on it while running idle and looked all ok. But still to be sure i did change the whole stator with the pick up for a new one. Didnt fix it. I also put different mass wires from engine to the frame etc. but didnt help either. Also changed the sparkplug cap and cable to a NGK racing C4 one but didnt fix the problem either. I also tried a lower tolerance between central electrode and tip of side electrode of the sparkplug, no change. What i didnt have checked? I think i checked everything a person can think about it. thought about popping it into a mechanic to have a look and diagnose? they won't charge much if their fault finding, its a 2stroke, most competent mechanics what have experience in 2strokes will diagnose that within hour I think |
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Post by wallzip on Jul 25, 2023 4:12:31 GMT -5
promise us that when you do find what is causing this, that you don't vanish into cyberspace. huh? we want to know about it. I dont believe that i can find the cause anymore but if it happens, i will share it ofc |
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Post by wallzip on Jul 25, 2023 4:17:55 GMT -5
I remember that i checked the spools with a multimeter and also the voltage on it while running idle and looked all ok. But still to be sure i did change the whole stator with the pick up for a new one. Didnt fix it. I also put different mass wires from engine to the frame etc. but didnt help either. Also changed the sparkplug cap and cable to a NGK racing C4 one but didnt fix the problem either. I also tried a lower tolerance between central electrode and tip of side electrode of the sparkplug, no change. What i didnt have checked? I think i checked everything a person can think about it. thought about popping it into a mechanic to have a look and diagnose? they won't charge much if their fault finding, its a 2stroke, most competent mechanics what have experience in 2strokes will diagnose that within hour I think Yea i was thinking about that to as a last resource but need the find a little van to transport my scooter with it. We have a tuning company 9km nearby my city so i will see. First i want to try a last thing. Putting the original valve back but with Athena reeds that came together with the cylinder. See if that makes a diffirence. |
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