2024 Ruckus

[bbrins]

Thanks. For now, I'm going to hold onto the GET engine, just in case I don't like my results. I'll keep you in mind if I decide to get rid of it.

[bbrins]

Looks like I'm going to have to order the Mojo mount after all. I can get the NCY 6.5" mount to bolt up, just barely, but the fuel injector flange digs into the elastomer at the frame crossmember, no way I'm getting the fuel injector in there. The crossmember on the mount itself won't allow for the throttle body to be installed.

[bbrins]

This evening, I got the engine mounted using the Mojo Customs GET mount. Thanks for the suggestion, sToRm. I still need to make some adjustments, the engine needs to be moved to the left about 1/2 an inch. Since the GET mount is a bit wider than the tabs on the Yamaha engine, I currently have it spaced with some washers, once I get it where I want it, I will make or buy some solid spacers. I need to figure out how long of a shock I need to purchase, it is probably usable as is, but sitting on the seat, it feels just a tad low, so maybe about an inch taller would be good, maybe a smidge less. I have an EFI fuel pump on the way, so maybe this weekend, I might be able to figure out enough of the wiring to at least fire the engine up. I'm going to hold off on installing the big bore kit until after I make certain that everything is fully functional.

[bbrins]

Last weekend I had all of the engine wiring complete, I had decided that I wanted to mount the ECU under the front cover where the original one was, so I extended that part of the wiring harness, then when I went to test fit the fuel tank and floor board, I realized that there really wasn't enough room because apparently fuel injection uses a good bit more wiring than a carburetor. Monday and Tuesday, after work, I spent some time un-extending the harness and re-relocating the ECU. I mounted the ECU on the underside of the vertical section between the floor board and the decking under the seat.

-I need to source some proper fuel injection hose and clamps since I don't think what I have on hand is really intended for that much pressure.

-I still need to adapt the wiring for all of the lights and switches, and aside from the ignition switch, that should be pretty straight forward, I may just cut some of the plugs off of the original harness just to make replacement of individual components easier in the future.

-Also need to figure something out for the coolant overflow bottle, the original one won't fit back in it's spot with the Mojo engine bracket.

[bbrins]

Said a few cuss words today. While installing a longer rear brake cable, I went to insert the end of the cable housing into the cable stop on the bottom of the gear case, one of the "ears" broke off way easier than it should have. I guess now I need to pull the gear case off and either have someone weld that ear back on, or try and find another one on ebay.

[oldgeek]

Oct 1, 2023 16:46:36 GMT -5 bbrins said:

Said a few cuss words today. While installing a longer rear brake cable, I went to insert the end of the cable housing into the cable stop on the bottom of the gear case, one of the "ears" broke off way easier than it should have. I guess now I need to pull the gear case off and either have someone weld that ear back on, or try and find another one on ebay.

Maybe you can make a steel one that uses the existing nearby bolt?

[bbrins]

Maybe you can make a steel one that uses the existing nearby bolt?

That is a darned fine idea. I went ahead and purchased a used replacement gear case on ebay, but I think I'll try making a new cable stop first. If nothing else, it'll get me running until after it's shakedown cruise, after that I'll be pulling the engine back out anyway to do the Big Bore Kit. Thanks for the suggestion.

[bbrins]

Got a few things done over the last couple of days, man I hate wiring. I love the mechanical part of this, but I just hate staring at barely legible wiring diagrams and trying to morph the two together. One thing that has helped me sort out some of it, is the fact that I have my C3 nearby, which has the same engine and digicals, so I can physically verify things on a fully functional example. Wiring is not my strong point, but I can usually figure things out, eventually. I sometimes get confused/frustrated by wires that go from negative to positive or positive to negative, then toss in some alternating current to confuse my test light and I'm throwing tools. I got the front turn signals and horn wired, installed LED headlight bulbs. I got the throttle cable installed, I wanted to retain the dual cable setup that Yamaha used, so I swapped out the controls for a spare set that I had for my C3, this also simplified some of the wiring.

Things that still need to be done:

- wire tail/brake light and rear turn signals. This should be pretty easy since I already figured out which Yamaha wire colors go with which Honda wire colors on the front lights.

- Wire the dummy lights. I've worked out which wires do what, now I just need to figure out how I want to mount them.

- Wire ignition switch. I think I already know how I want to do this. One issue is that Yamaha switches both the positive and negative with the key. I want to keep the Honda key switch, which only switches the positive, so I need to wire a relay so that it switches on the negative when I turn the key on. I could probably just jump those negative wires together, and may just do that if I find that it won't cause any issues.

- rewrap the the parts of the wire harness that I've had apart.

- purchase and install high pressure fuel hose and clamps to the fuel injector.

- finish installing the coolant recovery bottle.

- install mirrors. I had forgotten that Yamaha used a reverse m8 thread on the right side, so I got a pair of adapters that will allow me to use a spare set of mirrors that have right handed m10 threads.

- tighten the long bolt that connects the engine to the Mojo adapter and also go back and add Loctite to the important stuff.

- fix that broken brake cable stay.

- button everything up and ride it like a rental for a couple of days to work the bugs out, then if all goes well, rip it back apart and install the big bore kit and variator/clutch/belt bits. I'm not going to waste my time installing the BBK until I know for sure that this engine is healthy.

[aeroxbud]

It's a good plan to wait on the big bore. You don't want to be chasing more problems if you have them at the same time.

[bbrins]

I spent the whole day working on my Ruckus, it finally runs, but it's not ready to ride quite yet. Though I hate wiring, I can usually figure things out without too much trouble, but this one worked on my nerves. I don't usually have to deal with that many wires at once and Yamaha kinda sucks at wiring diagrams. Between a crappy wiring diagram, the troubleshooting section in the factory service manual, and my Yamaha C3, I got it figured out. Having my C3, which has the same engine that I installed on this scooter was a major help, it allowed me to confirm that a certain wire does or doesn't do what I think it does before potentially frying an ECU.

The wiring is complete, other than the Stage 6 fuel gauge and Metro fuel sender, as well as the tach. It fired up with no issues, no dummy lights, no check engine light. I only ran it for a minute or so, because I suddenly realized that I couldn't remember if I had filled the cooling system.

Things that still need to be done before I take it for a ride:
1. Repair or replace gear cover, and install rear brake cable
2. Double check all of the important nuts and bolts
3. Install fuel gauge and tachometer
4. Install new rear shock
5. Trim rear fender and make a bracket to keep it from flopping down on the right side
6. Check coolant level
7. Re-attach registration sticker

I didn't really get any pictures of the progress, but here is one of it's current state...

[bbrins]

I took her out for her first shakedown earlier today. For the most part she ran well. The engine wants to stall when coming to a stop, but that may be due to the fact that the rubber intake has a 1/2 inch hole in the side where I removed something that was in the way of the Mojo mount, the intake tube is going to be replaced anyway when I do the BBK, so I'll just wrap it with some electrical tape for now. Also, I am getting a check engine light because the ECU(code 42/D07) isn't seeing a pulse from the speed sensor, I guess maybe because I don't have one? I'm hoping I can get away with just hooking up an aftermarket(maybe TrailTech?) magnetic speed sensor. On the C3, the ECU gets the signal from inside of the speedometer cluster, which has the speed sensor built into it, the Ruckus speedometer doesn't seem to have anything like this that I can adapt.

Here she is...

[bbrins]

Last weekend, I took it out for a ride after doing a temporary install of the Trail Tech speed sensor just to see if this would cure my check engine light, it did.  Then I took everything back apart and installed the Malossi 70cc big bore kit and the fuel gauge, everything went smoothly, for the most part.  Somehow, even using a proper torque wrench, one of the water pump bolts broke on reassembly.  I also forgot to tighten a plug on the header that I assume is there for an a/f meter, or something, so on the first ride, the exhaust suddenly got really loud, I just hit the kill switch and coasted to a stop, assuming the worst.  After getting back home, I went back out on my C3 to see if I could find that plug, I stopped to get off and walk the area, but just happened to look down and it was on the shoulder right where I stopped.  It definitely has more oomph than a stock GET engine, I still need to play around with the variator weights a bit, I just simply installed the 6 gram ones that came with the variator.  I also need to try the different fuel maps in the Malossi Force Master 0.

This time, I made a little work platform so I wouldn't have to sit on the ground, it's much more enjoyable when you can just wheel around on a chair.

[bbrins]

Anyone know if there is a higher torque starter that will fit the fuel injected C3/Zuma engines? The starter likes to stall on the first try, always starts fine on the second press on the starter button. My C3 does the exact same thing with the same 70cc BBK installed.

[Timmer]

May 11, 2024 18:43:05 GMT -5 bbrins said:

Anyone know if there is a higher torque starter that will fit the fuel injected C3/Zuma engines? The starter likes to stall on the first try, always starts fine on the second press on the starter button. My C3 does the exact same thing with the same 70cc BBK installed.

“SHIN YEA” has some higher torque starters for the 125cc models, it might fit yours? I honestly have no clue as to what the dimensions are. The starter is somewhere like $125