Replace or repair accelerator cable?

[classacted]

I've used those things before. they're great. I was able to also use solder. it never came apart.

[FrankenMech]

My browser shuts down a lot of links like that including ones posted here many times for malware, trackers, etc.

Those cable barrels can be purchased at many automotive parts stores or lawnmower shops. I usually make my own with stuff I keep in my junk boxes. I have had limited luck using old cable sheaths with a new cable. The sheath can be cleaned out with WD, brake or carb cleaner. I usually just replace the whole assembly using my own cable ends if necessary.

[GrumpyUnk]

I did not check the dimension(you want to match so they fit and aren't sloppy), but the should do the job as cable ends. With the cable removed from the sheath, you could flush some spray cleaner through. Clamp in a vertical position with a catch can(tuna can?) to see how much crud comes out.
I would not expect a lot, perhaps some rusted sheath powder, but flushing with an aerosol of some sort may move things. Let drip dry for a while, and either slather some LIGHT grease onto the cable as you re-install or spray some lube into the sheath as install or prior to installation. I think a grease such as Vaseline smeared on the cable would be adequate.
I have a tiny bike I will never ride as I exceed weight limits, but its cable was dorked, and I could not find any cable ends as I didn't know the word. Now I can get some to terminate the cable so it will pull on the throttle. Good to know.
tom

[classacted]

I used to use bicycle cables on my slow european mopeds. they were daily drivers so I never had an issue. I would never suggest anyone else do that, and the places I rode were in the country where I am the only person who would get hurt.

[GrumpyUnk]

The concern I would have for cable malfunction is that it would jam in the WOT position. A simple solution for that is to REALIZE the problem, and know that the KILL switch on the handlebars will cut the ignition and allow gaining speed control.
If the throttle won't open, such as a broken cable, carry a piece of string you can tie onto the throttle control to pull open the throttle and mosy on home slowly..
I don't see other throttle cable dangers, but let me know what I missed. I would be observant for brake cables and would have to compare bike to scooter and examine for differences.
tom

addddd.... fishing line and wire vs string...

[GrumpyUnk]

Frankenmech: My browser shuts down a lot of links like that including ones posted here many times for malware, trackers, etc.

My browser(Palemoon) will come to a grinding halt when I visit Amazon. Open a tab on Amazon, and then go do other things at other sites. Soon, stuff will happen, and my browser will quit responding to anything. Sometimes it will 'your browser has stopped working. check for solutions or close' are the choices.
Superb software development. Excellent testing for problems. Unparalleled reaction to discovered bugs.

I wish.
I have tried Edge and Chrome. BEWARE. I think their 'autosaved passwords' have been hacked.

Any way, you are not alone. The above stuff will bring a HP 3Ghz Core 2 Duo to its knees, with both CPU chips 100% busy. Doing I don't know what, as the screen doesn't change. I CAN go to other apps, though they are slow to respond.
Problem is, development and releases are still being pushed hard rather than fixing what you already have put out for use. Instead of more features and auto-links and thumbnails and fancy floating toolbars, why not fix the bugs they already have...
The ONLY reason I 'upgrade' is the web sites say 'unsupoorted browser, go away until you change to one of these listed richere...'
I digress.
Have fun today. Start 'er up and ride around the block.
tom

[kosmos]

you guys talking about solder for a new cable end, heres a video i saw on that you might find useful. 
also, a suggestion but this is mostly for a new cable, to get fluids down into the new cable for lubing it, is www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0182-Cable-Luber/dp/B0012TYX9W/ I've got one of these and used it on my bike, and my cars speedometer cable when I got a new one.  theres specific cable lube grease you can get in a can

[FrankenMech]

That 'amazon' link is broken also unless I copy it as text and paste it into a new window. I think clicking on links here at 46ccscoot is what tacks on the trackers that cause browser failures. The malware and trackers here are getting as bad as clicking on a pron link 40 years ago. LOL

That cable luber in the link is the same one I have used for years.

I have made my own cable ends for 60 years with a little more sophisticated methods but the crude method shown '~works'. Tin the end of the cable using flux after physically cleaning for best adhesion. Small pieces of brass, steel, and copper tubing etc work to form ends. My grandfather taught me Mil-Spec soldering techniques as a child, advanced work in college, and I actually had Mil-Spec training later on as an adult working in a defense plant engineering laboratory. Silver solder can be used for critical applications. Welding can be used if you have the proper equipment.

[GrumpyUnk]

YT Poster sixtyfiveford ... does cable ends.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=_zM3V0v1EJY

He uses discarded tire balancing weights scrounged from tire stores..
tom


 If you FIX THINGS, his information is very useful.

another YT:


www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ysd8JkWclmc

have not watched.
tom

[FrankenMech]

Both videos are good.

Make sure you clean off the soldering flux with brake cleaner then a warm soap and water solution and baking soda mixture, then rinse well. Soldering flux is corrosive, an acid.

[kevino]

Looks like I'm 98% done. Only thing left is reassembling the right handlebar starter button, turn signal and mirror. As simple as that sounds, it's been defeating me for days. I'm guessing I need to detach the cable from the carb to have enough room to assemble the handlebar switch.

[kevino]

Well maybe not 98%. I got the starter switch assembled but with no slack to slide it up the handlebar. So I took the handle bar off. That gave me enough room to push the handle back on. Now the problem is figuring out how to reattach the two handlebar clamps. Also the four clamp parts fell on the floor and no idea what goes where.

I tried starting it for a while.  Finally realized it wasn't starting because I had taken the car off.  

[kevino]

still slow progress. Handlebar in on. But I had to unscrew the accelerator cable tube. Now I have to probably de-tach it from the carb to be able to screw in back into the right accelerator unit.

[GrumpyUnk]

Ya got me confused, but that's ok. When I have fiddled with throttle cables, I am pretty sure I detached at the carburetor. That or adjusted both adjusters for most slack. Then with the twist grip free of the housing, you can twist it any which way to get the cable termination slug into the white plastic slot/hole. Once in the groove, rotate as needed to give the slack back to the other end, and restore the housing/switch assembly. Then do the same at the carb. I remove the nut on the adjuster, slide the cable out of the mount slot, and rotate the throttle so the slug opening is visible, then rout the cable through the groove and back to the mount. Cable through slot, adjuster back in place, tighten the nut to keep if from unraveling or getting hung on 'stuff'.

[kevino]

Still working at it. I don't know where this piece goes. It's hard plastic and reletively clean. A photo in the Haynes manual says it goes under the engine. But I wonder because it seems too clean for that.