Replace or repair accelerator cable?

[kevino]

Aug 2, 2023 19:43:29 GMT -5 classacted said:

you'll fix the cable issue, but the oil leak is bad news. it's a nice looking bike.

I parked the scooter in the garage and laid paper towels under the motor.     So far no oil drips on the paper towel. I may have simply over-filled the crank case.  

[kevino]

One of these should show a leak.

[GrumpyUnk]

You can gravity bleed the master & caliper. After opening, add DOT 3-4 fluid, and then open the bleed screw on the caliper. Get something to catch the brake fluid that eventually flows. Open the bleed a turn or two.
The fluid should slowly filter into the piston chamber on the master cylinder. There is a tiny port on the inside, at the bottom, that is open between the reservoir and the cylinder. When you pull on the brake lever, the piston moves and closes the port, captures a slug of fluid which is then pushed down the tube to the caliper and pushed the piston against the pads. The port must be open to allow fluid to flow. Look close to make sure it is not clogged with crud. Clean as needed. The fluid should fill the cylinder and trickle on down to the caliper, fill the caliper and eventually expel the air via the bleed screw. Once you get fluid out the bleed screw, close it. You should have brakes.
Need more info on the oil leak. Crankshaft seals leaking will leak into the CVT, or the blower housing. Cam cover leaks will trickle down the front of the engine most times. Chain tensioner will leak over the top of the engine. Which do you have?
tom

[GrumpyUnk]

If overfilled, the most likely place for leak would be the vent tube attached at the cam cover. The normal pressure pulse in the crankcase could push oil out the vent tube. Take a look at the cam cover vent and vent tube. Look also at the end of the vent tube to see if it was wet with oil.
When you add oil, the bike should be on the level. Check by just dropping the dipstick onto the fill and then pull it out and inspect. Do not screw it in when checking. Hmmm. Check on the 'on two wheels' or 'on the center stand' as now I am unsure for checking the level.
When changing, I use a plastic measure with cc marks on the side. Fill to 700cc and then run that into the sump via a funnel. That should put it somewhere on the dipstick.
tom

[classacted]

kevino, you can always carry oil with you. check and fill it at your discretion. we've all lived with leaks.

[kevino]

Turning the handlebar left has no problem. But turning right the carb begins to race. I see the accelerator cable sheath dragging which activates to cable to move forward. I need to move the cable so the sheath isn't hitting the mass of wires in the front.
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[GrumpyUnk]

As a guess, I think I would try routing the cable underneath the large-ish bundle of wires down near the horn. I think they would cause the cable to get tensioned in a right turn as they would be in the way of the cable moving. Under the bundle, the should not present anything the cable would be forced to 'go around'. Left turn, maybe a little, but I think less.
tom

[kevino]

I pulled the barrel off the handle and re-routed the cable under the 'bundle' of wires. That seems to have solved the problem.

[classacted]

sometimes those cables and wires have to be arranged an exact way for everything to go together and work right.

[kevino]

I've pulled the #5 screws so often the plastic threads are shot. I'm trying an old trick; Smear the threads with JB Weld and screw it in loosely. Works well for stripped metal threads.

[classacted]

I've never tried this, but it's a thought. get the screw super hot and either push it in or twist it in and it may melt the plastic and make new threads. OR go to a longer and/or wider screw.

[GrumpyUnk]

Aug 6, 2023 17:21:22 GMT -5 kevino said:

I've pulled the #5 screws so often the plastic threads are shot. I'm trying an old trick; Smear the threads with JB Weld and screw it in loosely. Works well for stripped metal threads.

 If you have access to silicone oil, you can wet the threads of the screw and JB Weld will not stick to the threads.  It makes helping the semi-ruined threads with JB Weld work better as you can unscrew the fastener easily if it has had a tiny bit of silicone oil on the threads.
 I have used it on the brake mechanism on a riding mower that had good threads deep, but semi-existing threads further out.  It worked and held the brake pad carrier/ramp adequately.
tom

[kevino]

Aug 6, 2023 20:12:57 GMT -5 classacted said:

I've never tried this, but it's a thought. get the screw super hot and either push it in or twist it in and it may melt the plastic and make new threads. OR go to a longer and/or wider screw.

Or maybe use a larger self-tapping wood screw?  

[classacted]

kevino, I would go with GrumpyUnk's suggestion here. I'm convinced.

[kevino]

So I bled the brakes well enough that there's tension in the lever. And the accelerator is only wobbling a little bit. But the two #5 bolts are tight. Maybe that's enough because otherwise I'm back to jerry-rigging to get the bike back on the road. Thanks for all the help,

kevino