|
|
Post by billwill on Dec 14, 2023 21:06:13 GMT -5
I would still go down a size on the main. I shoot for peaking around 350 so you’re still a little rich to me. Try the white contra, I ended up like it more than the yellow. I get so nervous with this aluminum cylinder but you may be right. I should trust the temp gauge. I think I have so much more trans tuning to do that I might keep the main where it is but play with the needle a bit. Switching to a white spring sure would make me think that it would ride lower in the back so that's probably not a bad idea. Was watching a 2strokestuffing vid on trans tuning and he was saying go with the lightest torque spring you can without any belt slip. |
|
|
|
Post by oldgeek on Dec 14, 2023 21:54:31 GMT -5
IMO the CVT tune and the carb tune converge to be fully tuned. Put another way, changing the CVT tune can often require another carb tune or tweak and vice versa. They need to arrive to the tuned state simultaneously.
And agree, it is best to use the lightest contra spring you can get away with based on your riding needs and belt slip.
It looks really nice thus far.
|
|
|
|
Post by Zino on Dec 14, 2023 22:31:52 GMT -5
I agree with go with the lightest contra that runs with no belt slip for a daily rider
anything stiffer wears on the cvt
For a race build the stiffer contra helps with down shifting out of corners and between races you rebuild the trans between races .
|
|
|
|
Post by bigmatthew86 on Dec 14, 2023 22:46:33 GMT -5
I think aluminum cylinders can run hotter like to 400 so I’d definitely drop a main size or 2 & see how it feels. If it’s no better you can always run the richer just for less heat.
|
|
|
|
Post by billwill on Dec 15, 2023 6:38:58 GMT -5
IMO the CVT tune and the carb tune converge to be fully tuned. Put another way, changing the CVT tune can often require another carb tune or tweak and vice versa. They need to arrive to the tuned state simultaneously. And agree, it is best to use the lightest contra spring you can get away with based on your riding needs and belt slip. It looks really nice thus far. Thanks OG! Rather poetic the way you put it - can't say I disagree and makes me feel better about the carb strangeness going on. I agree with go with the lightest contra that runs with no belt slip for a daily rider anything stiffer wears on the cvt For a race build the stiffer contra helps with down shifting out of corners and between races you rebuild the trans between races . I never really thought of this before but it makes sense... definitely none of this for me on this build haha. I think aluminum cylinders can run hotter like to 400 so I’d definitely drop a main size or 2 & see how it feels. If it’s no better you can always run the richer just for less heat. Pretty sure aluminum is less forgiving than cast iron. If this were cast, I wouldn't be so conservative about hitting higher temps. |
|
|
|
Post by bigmatthew86 on Dec 15, 2023 9:25:51 GMT -5
If you seize it it’s less forgiving, I think it’ll run at a higher temperature however. Just say that 310 is still no where near too hot.
|
|
|
|
Post by billwill on Dec 15, 2023 9:47:21 GMT -5
If you seize it it’s less forgiving, I think it’ll run at a higher temperature however. Just say that 310 is still no where near too hot. Oh yeah fully agree, I've been using 350º as the "danger/don't go above" zone. But, I've definitely heard from some reputable folk that things can go past there and still be fine, like 385-400º. |
|
|
|
Post by billwill on Dec 15, 2023 9:49:31 GMT -5
Welp... broke down and bought a Malossi overrange last night.
If it works out great, if not, I can throw it or this stage6 overrange on my other scoot and know that its not just the s6 setup and my crappy trans tuning haha.
|
|
|
|
Post by billwill on Dec 15, 2023 13:57:59 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by billwill on Dec 15, 2023 20:23:16 GMT -5
Back in business (somewhat).
Put the transmission back together after grinding the case some more and swapped the yellow spring out for a white.
I also moved the needle up one notch to a richer setting, just to see if that would make the carb play nicer. I had the needle in the center position and had tried it in the second notch from the top but it was very obviously too lean this way with a high idle, lean bog and the idle would hang after revving.
Moving the needle up to the second richest position made it feel so much more smooth and powerful. Max speed was still poor, at 53mph, but the bike felt so much better.
Perhaps I could try throwing in heavier rollers but I'm probably going to quit trying to tune any further until I can slap the MHR overrange on and see how it compares.
Whats odd is the bike just hangs at 11k rpm on the dot. Not a hair above, even downhill.
Feels like I should have gone with a C16 pipe. Oh well, we'll see how the new overrange does.
|
|
|
|
Post by billwill on Dec 17, 2023 20:27:09 GMT -5
Meant to post this the other evening but didn't have time, but here is a video of some mixed riding with the above tuning.
MHR overrange comes tomorrow - excited to get into it.
|
|
|
|
Post by Lucass2T on Dec 18, 2023 0:22:47 GMT -5
Meant to post this the other evening but didn't have time, but here is a video of some mixed riding with the above tuning. MHR overrange comes tomorrow - excited to get into it. That thing sounds very crisp and healthy! Good job! |
|
|
|
Post by billwill on Dec 18, 2023 10:39:53 GMT -5
Meant to post this the other evening but didn't have time, but here is a video of some mixed riding with the above tuning. MHR overrange comes tomorrow - excited to get into it. That thing sounds very crisp and healthy! Good job! Thanks Lucas! Been doing some more reading on atomizers (there's a great group on Facebook if anyone wants to check it out: www.facebook.com/groups/671081149638729) and picked up a couple off treatland just now and a PWK needle set. The carb felt much better just with the needle being moved up/richer, but still doesn't feel spot on. Some guy posted a video of his moped after switching to a 30 hole PWK atomizer and it sounded great. Maybe that helps with me. |
|
|
|
Post by billwill on Dec 18, 2023 19:02:18 GMT -5
Figured I'd inspect the case again after a bit of riding and there were still what seemed like some potential wear marks. So I spent some time doing even more grinding on the case, really focusing on making sure to remove any remaining sharp edges.
I also figured, while I wait for the overrange, to try some heavier rollers. I swapped the 4.5g rollers for 5.3g and took it for a spin. Not too shabby. The bike feels more powerful overall with the 4.5g rollers but the top speed was around 53mph and it would sit at around 11.5k rpm.
With the 5.3g rollers it topped out at 60mph (some of this was downhill) and would sit around 10.5k rpm. So overall I think I'm figuring out that the weights may have been too light, but I still want to try the Malossi overrange. The bike felt happier and better with the 4.5g rollers and revving higher.
Couple of odd things, and I got each on video, was that it would produce an odd sound from 3/4 to full throttle when getting up to speed. Then, would do something odd when starting from a stop or getting back on the throttle after slowing down from speed where it seemed like it was almost backfiring/bogging/sputtering.
0:59s - 3/4 to full throttle womp
1:44s - backfiring/bogging/sputtering
I think if I keep a setup with heavier rollers, I'll need to go with heavier clutch springs because it did not like moving off the line with these 5.3g rollers.
|
|
|
|
Post by Lucass2T on Dec 19, 2023 9:57:43 GMT -5
Maybe it's just me but it sounds like you are lean on the main jet?
It sounds like it's grasping for fuel when you go from cruise to WOT.
Please check if it feels stronger/happier at 9/10 throttle. If thats the case, you're lean on the main jet.
|
|
