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Post by br4inl3ss on Sept 20, 2023 12:35:52 GMT -5
hi.
how you all been lately ?
only bad luck over bad luck so i didnt come here since some time.
the scooter had an accident ( weirdo useless rear disk brake decided to stop working, oring done and also sucked air. not braking... also only way to stop me was front brake... on gravel road. good luck....) plastic completly trashed, transforming it into a chopper sicne i cannot afford 3200 CAD for a crappy bws/zuma that need inspection no paper plastics broken and need a rebuild.
so the project is going on...
now since i need only ONE H4 bulb instead of 2 stock, can the white wire support the single 55w h4 ?
i did the 11 pole swap long time ago and was running headlights on the battery because info on the swap tutorial was wrong.
it say its 12v, but its not. its more 10-80v so unregulated DC.
it burn 2 automotive/motorcycle 12v relay before i wake up and realize even the best info is filled with crap.
another option would be to run a H4 led thata ctually support 80 ( easily avaialble ) but i already have so many pair of H4, both used and new ( 6 pair new, just to say ) so ide like to keep my good quality AOLED H4 on.
i do use a relay, but its runnign on battery.
i asked about 6 time how to make a step down converted, too complicated sicne most guide are for 5v.
and the sold one are way too big. its a chopper not a bagger that have more storage than a damn boing 747.
so my options are modifying a relay, or buying a another damn h4 but that support up to 80v.
or if you have another option.... i jsut hate runnign them on such a small batery, always dead and i often get to work on it with key on and headlight must be connected ( not necessarl on tho )
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Sept 21, 2023 13:11:10 GMT -5
Do a search on DaRiver for 'kohler rectifier regulator'
For about $15US or less you can get a reg/rec that I have heard is used by Harley Davidson motorcycle owners to take the place of the factory installed reg/rec.
The three terminals are: AC DC AC and the case is ground.
So, two wires of AC in and you get regulated rectified DC out that would connect to the battery + terminal.
Should handle whatever the tiny stator/flywheel can put out. I think.
WORDS:
Reliable Voltage Control: Ensure your Kohler 8-25 hp engine is running smoothly and efficiently with our high-quality voltage regulator rectifier, which can protect various electronic equipment on the car and improves its service life.
Easy Replacement: Save time and money with our voltage regulator rectifier direct replacement for Kohler part numbers 41 403 09, 41 403 10-S, and 25 403 03-S.
Durable Build: Made with an aluminum housing and heat-dissipating silicone, our voltage regulator rectifier is built to last and withstand tough conditions, increasing the life of the rectifier.
Maximum Protection: Our voltage regulator rectifier comes with protection functions to prevent damage from over-voltage, over-temperature, and short-circuit. When the battery power is 100%, the rectifier stops charging the battery, preventing the battery from being overcharged.
Stable Output: Enjoy stable and consistent output voltage of 14.5±0.5V with our 3-terminal, AC, B+,AC, Voltage regulator rectifier, ensuring your engine is always running at its optimal performance level.
comes close to what I would want.
tom
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Post by snaker on Sept 21, 2023 17:29:58 GMT -5
Do a search on DaRiver for 'kohler rectifier regulator' For about $15US or less you can get a reg/rec that I have heard is used by Harley Davidson motorcycle owners to take the place of the factory installed reg/rec. The three terminals are: AC DC AC and the case is ground. So, two wires of AC in and you get regulated rectified DC out that would connect to the battery + terminal. Should handle whatever the tiny stator/flywheel can put out. I think. WORDS: Reliable Voltage Control: Ensure your Kohler 8-25 hp engine is running smoothly and efficiently with our high-quality voltage regulator rectifier, which can protect various electronic equipment on the car and improves its service life. Easy Replacement: Save time and money with our voltage regulator rectifier direct replacement for Kohler part numbers 41 403 09, 41 403 10-S, and 25 403 03-S. Durable Build: Made with an aluminum housing and heat-dissipating silicone, our voltage regulator rectifier is built to last and withstand tough conditions, increasing the life of the rectifier. Maximum Protection: Our voltage regulator rectifier comes with protection functions to prevent damage from over-voltage, over-temperature, and short-circuit. When the battery power is 100%, the rectifier stops charging the battery, preventing the battery from being overcharged. Stable Output: Enjoy stable and consistent output voltage of 14.5±0.5V with our 3-terminal, AC, B+,AC, Voltage regulator rectifier, ensuring your engine is always running at its optimal performance level. comes close to what I would want. tom Most 11 pole stators are 3 phase Most, if not all, 7 pin RR's are 3 phase I have no idea what's up with this project, but I'm guessing your replacement won't work in this case. |
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Sept 22, 2023 8:01:45 GMT -5
Would a 3-phase have then 3 outputs? That would be my expectation. That also would need a RR with 3 inputs.
I have not seen a RR with that many pins, but that does not mean much. I do think the Kohler style would work for most 139QMB that have white and yellow outputs. Necessary? Likely not.
tom
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Post by snaker on Sept 22, 2023 8:59:42 GMT -5
Yes, a 3 phase has 3 output legs and needs a specific RR to match.
All of these lighting coils have to have a compatible RR to work
These GY6 Magneto's come in 3 basic types:
1. Single phase half wave
Those are essentially a dual circuit lighting coil.
Ground on one end of the coil, white (usually) on the other end (high output) and yellow (usually) on the midpoint (low output).
The smaller 50cc and older bigger have that.
2. Single phase full wave
That's more like a typical magneto alternator
Say white on one end of the lighting coil and yellow on the other end
Those two wires are equal output legs
Ground is not involved in this lighting coil, it is only introduced within the RR
They would work with the basic type of RR you show.
3. 3 phase
They have three equal output legs
Some times they have the auto choke hooked to one of the legs, but everything else is typically powered by DC after the RR
I believe I've seen diagrams with them in either a wye or a delta configuration
Which ever way, again, the RR has to match
All of this is specifically from the lighting coil which is separate from any AC ignition power coil, if used.
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Post by snaker on Sept 22, 2023 9:29:04 GMT -5
 This is a great illustration, wish I knew who to give credit to. Notice the stator ground is removed on the full wave lighting coil. Although ground could still be present on the stator plate itself There is no mid point wire, the two are equal output legs And this is the lighting coil only. A AC ignition coil, if included on the stator, is a separate coil |
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Post by snaker on Sept 22, 2023 9:37:56 GMT -5
This is somewhat typical for a 3 phase and shows the required compatibility between the stator and RR Some of the top plug stuff may vary. EX, I see some wire diagrams with the auto choke attached to one of the yellow lighting coil wires.  |
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Post by br4inl3ss on Sept 22, 2023 9:43:29 GMT -5
i do have a 3 phase and both stator and regulator match together thats not the question.
the 7 wire regulator have a white wire, unregulated 12v DC. it follow aproximatly ac voltage but its in DC.
no ac output at all there.
thing is the guide talk about using a relay on that wire which cannot be done. relay are max 15v ( stamped 12v ).
12v relay on 80v wont last long. been there done that.
so why the guide say that knowing its impossible, or what do people do that no one talk about ?
do they mod the relay so ti support 80v ?
i tought of using another regulator on the stator output wires ( yellow AC ) to get a regulated 14.7v DC output, but it would need another battery and also that would also regulate the AC from the stator and that will never work, since main regulator needs unregulated ac input from stator.
shit setup ( 150cc 11 pole stator with 7 wire RR ) work very good and at 3k rpm i can power anything i can throw at it tis so powerfull and even tried 4 H3 hid + 4 H4 led at the same time, wow. nothing. still charge the damn battery with such load.
but at idle and under 3k rpm its dead. even with NO laod at all ( no light at all ) it barely reach 11.5v. even on fast idle of 2300 rpm. thats why i dotn want to keep using only the battery because the moment i put the key on, lights are on and battery drean pretty fast ( 7ah ) and cannot use starter.
id like to use the white wire as the guide says, run a relay to turn on the light only when engine is on.
thing is the guide is wrong it cannot be done because its unregulated. i do have the same setup
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Post by snaker on Sept 22, 2023 9:45:08 GMT -5
 This says for motorcycle but its similar for scoot 3 phase |
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Post by snaker on Sept 22, 2023 9:50:48 GMT -5
i do have a 3 phase and both stator and regulator match together thats not the question. the 7 wire regulator have a white wire, unregulated 12v DC. it follow aproximatly ac voltage but its in DC. no ac output at all there. thing is the guide talk about using a relay on that wire which cannot be done. relay are max 15v ( stamped 12v ). 12v relay on 80v wont last long. been there done that. so why the guide say that knowing its impossible, or what do people do that no one talk about ? do they mod the relay so ti support 80v ? i tought of using another regulator on the stator output wires ( yellow AC ) to get a regulated 14.7v DC output, but it would need another battery and also that would also regulate the AC from the stator and that will never work, since main regulator needs unregulated ac input from stator. shit setup ( 150cc 11 pole stator with 7 wire RR ) work very good and at 3k rpm i can power anything i can throw at it tis so powerfull and even tried 4 H3 hid + 4 H4 led at the same time, wow. nothing. still charge the damn battery with such load. but at idle and under 3k rpm its dead. even with NO laod at all ( no light at all ) it barely reach 11.5v. even on fast idle of 2300 rpm. thats why i dotn want to keep using only the battery because the moment i put the key on, lights are on and battery drean pretty fast ( 7ah ) and cannot use starter. id like to use the white wire as the guide says, run a relay to turn on the light only when engine is on. thing is the guide is wrong it cannot be done because its unregulated. i do have the same setup Can't help ya spud. I have absolutely no clue what your trying to do. |
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Post by br4inl3ss on Sept 22, 2023 11:15:55 GMT -5
i dont see what is hard to see... hard to understand me, yes i see it myself  the guide on here, to do the swap from 8 pole to 11 pole, say to use the white wire ( unregulated DC output ) to activate a relay for the headlight. even if it was regulated, its not strong enought to run a light right on. wondering if it can make 2 amp... the relay job is to turn the light on when the engine is running ( activated by white wire from regulator ). thats how it should work. this way it doesnt drain the battery with ignition on. but the guide didnt say it was unregulated and reach up to 80-90v. that will ofcourse burn the relay.... so the guide is wrong. but some people keep saying they to the exact same. the thing is i dont see how they do... they made their own relay that support 80v ? they installed a big ass step down convertor that doesnt even exist in this voltage range ? they just straight up lied and dont use that ? they modded a relay to support 80v ? thats what i'm asking. |
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