Lexmoto Echo torque issues?

[danielbe]

Hi all, so am looking for some general advice please.... Feel free to point me in the appropriate direction...

I ride a big bike ...and have a 15yr old memory of an old Suzuki 50cc 2 stroke...perhaps I just need to hone my expectations?

Just got a really sweet little 2022 euro 5 Lexmoto Echo 50cc. 1600miles.

Starts on the button, no problem.

When riding...

It needs almost full revs to get going...and even then when it does pull away it may slow right down (physical speed)... And likewise if you quickly give it full throttle it seems really slow to pick up speed. Also pulling away you need to twist throttle slowly....

It almost feels like the "clutch is slipping" as there seems to be revs but no drive....or too much drive and so it almost stalls....

On the straight it does slowly pick up speed to 25mph....and could maybe, given long enough go a tiny bit faster. I am not expecting much but hoped I may get to 30?

Is this simply the foibles of a cheap, Chinese, 50cc moped trying to move my 16 stone?

Or is there anything I can check?

Have just done oil change and spark plug. Oil strainer is clean. Air filter is clean.

Belt looked ok.... everything seems clean and tidy....barely used.

The old spark plug was slightly fouled - bit of oil on the electrode.

Engine light came on when warm...I am hoping this has been sorted by an oil change/top up....or what else could I check!? Or does it need resetting - if so how?

Maybe worth checking the valve clearance?

Or am I simply expecting too much from a tiny bike compared to what I am used to?

So,.basically, two questions:

Why is power not linear or consistent?
What is causing engine light or needs a reset?

Many thanks for any help.

[aeroxbud]

It is worth checking the valve clearances, just to rule it out.
Unfortunately the echo isn't quite as powerful as the echo+. So performance isn't going to be great.
A quality variator my help the situation if you can get one. Pedparts sell a generic GY6 one. www.pedparts.co.uk/product/2699/polini-hi-speed-variator-kit--kymco-gy6-50cc-4t?ga4List=
They are very helpful, and you could ask them on the information page of it will fit.
There should be an OBD port on the bike somewhere to plug a reader in.
I think the newer models are restricted in the ECU, and in the carb, by the ECU injecting air into it. So unless you can get an unrestricted ECU. It's never going to be great. I've only seen unrestricted ones for Euro 4.

[danielbe]

Thanks aeroxbud

[GrumpyUnk]

Cannot hurt to check the CVT operation. I do not know beans about this machine, but if it has a CVT, the clutch shoes may be slipping, or the belt worn to where it does not grab fully. If you have an engine that is spinning fast, but are not moving, it indicates slippage. If that is not the condition, never mind.
tom

[danielbe]

Thanks @grumpyunk I have scoured the internet and Facebook and now have a plan of action.

The belt looks nearly new. Very little dust inside the CBT casing.

I am going to look at/check the clutch contra spring...with a view to upgrading this if necessary to a slightly stronger one. My understanding is that this is the place to start to ensure good engagement at take off

Next....

As the system is balanced between the clutch and the variator,.depending upon what adjustments I make at the clutch inwollmthen check the rollers in the variator. Checking them for flat spots but also playing,.possibly, slightly with the weights.

I am not necessarily looking to mod the bike so it accelerates quicker (clutch spring) or has greater top speed (rollers), I am just looking to improve initial engagement...pull off etc. but am aware that the system needs to be balanced.

This,.I am hoping will all improve the drive.

I will also check the valve clearance as it seems easy enough to check.

Thanks all. Ride safe.

[aeroxbud]

Another cheap option you could try is some clutch springs for the clutch. A pack of three different strengths is quite cheap.
They often come with the softest springs, a tad harder than stock. It would mean you have to rev the bike slightly more to get the clutch engagement. But if it feels at the moment that it isn't getting into the power band on take off. It is a cheap thing to try.
If it feels fine and is trying up before launch, I wouldn't worry about trying it.

[danielbe]

Nov 22, 2023 3:24:47 GMT -5 aeroxbud said:

Another cheap option you could try is some clutch springs for the clutch. A pack of three different strengths is quite cheap.
They often come with the softest springs, a tad harder than stock. It would mean you have to rev the bike slightly more to get the clutch engagement. But if it feels at the moment that it isn't getting into the power band on take off. It is a cheap thing to try.
If it feels fine and is trying up before launch, I wouldn't worry about trying it.

Thanks...what is the difference between changing the contra spring, or the 3 clutch springs?

Is there a way to determine which is required....? Or perhaps just get both and see what works....maybe one or maybe both?

[aeroxbud]

The torque spring pushes the rear against the belt. It keeps tension between the variator and rear pulley.
Fitting a stiffer spring will make it shift down into a lower gear earlier, as well as stop slip. It will also need require slightly heavier rollers to overcome the extra resistance. It's a balancing act.
The clutch springs only keep the clutch pads away from the bell. The stiffer the springs the higher the revs to engage.
Once the clutch has fully engaged with the clutch bell, that's it. So the three springs only really effect the bike pulling away.