Headlight

[tjb]

Have a 200cc Super..340 miles maybe .less then a year old. Headlight won't come on at times but when I turn throttle it usually comes on but can't see during day. Sometimes it don't come on. Bulb isn't loose. I had brake light go out a while back..had to take half the scooter apart to get to tail lights assembly to change bulb. During this..there was only one set of wires or one connector going to back lights. Brake light works but since..headlight is touch and go. Why only come on..and not always .but only when I throttle up??any idea people?? Gonna take seat off and so again tomorrow and check that plug for rear lights. Just to see. When I wiggle wires to headlight..nothing happens..bulb is secure also.

[tjb]

TJB again on headlight. Feel free to drop an email to [e-mail]. Just hoping I can get back on HERE to see any replies..that's what the email. Thanks

[Zino]

Scooters headlights are typically primarily run off the stator not the battery So as you rev up you spin the staor faster and it produces more juices for the lights .

try turning the idle up so you have a better base level of juice running the lights

[tjb]

I will give that a shot .thanks. Sounds like it may work

[geoffh]

A shot in the dark but worth a thought ,there are numerous brake light bulb styles and fittings it,s easy to fit the wrong one and cause some earth/ground problems.

Geoff

[tjb]

Thanks...I got the same exact bulb for brake light. Down to the numbers .identical. As I noticed today..light was on then it went off...probably while riding. Thinking it COULD be stator..something tells me it isn't the stator. I understand the stator but when I revved it up .light didn't come on ..it was on cause I noticed it when I was behind a car and seen reflection of my headlight ..when I got home .I noticed it was off. Been waiting on word from warranty place but nothing so far. Thought it was the bulb that went out in headlight. But it's not the bulb. These people are not helping so far. Time will tell.

[GrumpyUnk]

There are two output wires for most 139QMB engines. Yellow and white. One is converted to rectified regulated DC to charge the battery. The other is used to provide less clean power to run the headlight. If it is irregular, then you likely have a loose connection. Get out your electrical schematic or look in the owners manual, or look on-site for a schematic. Follow the two (Y/W) wires from the stator on the schema, and on the bike. You will find connectors for the regulator/rectifier and for the headlight. The headlight has two filaments for HI and LO beam. The switch could be worn out or crudded up along with the connectors to the headlight socket. The socket could have bad internal contacts damaged by heat, and thus not so springy. A loose connection in the bulb socket will cause heat and weaken the springs holding the contact to the bulb contact, a self-licking ice cream cone to cause problems. Check that the bulb fits tightly against the connectors. There should be some sort of spring clip that holds the socket into the reflector. You will need to take the top cluster off to gain access. You will have to remove the 'front cover' on most to gain access to the regulator/rectifier and all the included wiring. The reg/rec will be a black 'cube-ish' shape mounted to the frame with heat sink like fins to cool. It will have one connector with 4(I think) wires. Two from the stator, and one for clean DC and one for 'raw' leading to the headlight switch...
tom

[tjb]

Remember . This is a brand new one. Would t think there would be issues like that or this so soon.

[GrumpyUnk]

You could still be having loose connections that are finally wiggling their way free, and losing contact intermittently. I would remove the headlight(if necessary) and gain access to the wiring behind it or behind the 'front panel'. Check the wires that go to the headlight beam switch... they will also go to the headlight socket. Check the wires from the regulator/rectifier. Two are from the stator, Y & W, and the others go to the battery for charging and to power 'DC accessories', and to the headlight. If the connection is loose, make it tight.
Start the engine, and check the voltage on the Y & W wires. They should be above 14V with the engine at idle, and should increase with rpm increase. Get out the schematic, or get one from this site, compare your wires you can actually see, the number and color and what they connect to, and find the set for the headlight. It should NOT be intermittent. That will lead to hot spots and crispy wire insulation as bad connections develop HEAT.
Obtain a VOM, and check the voltage at the involve connectors. Find the ones for the headlight, and check them with the engine running.
Or, if it is really 'new', take it back for warranty work. I am sure they will be glad to see you cross their threshold. not.
tom

[FrankenMech]

Bad connections in switches and wire connections are not unknown in scoots that sat in a container exposed to salt air as they crossed the ocean. Corrosion causes intermittent connections. Sometimes pulling connectors apart and adding some silicone dielectric grease will help. Sometimes a little WD-40 sprayed inside switches may help as well as switching them several times to try to wipe the corrosion off the contacts. Touching the Halogen headlight bulb will destroy it. Clean gloves must be used. Any skin oil or fingerprints on the halogen bulb destroys them.

My scoot had several switches with bad contacts when brand new. The WD-40 spray and operating them a few times finally cleaned them. Avoid using WD-40 on brake switches.

[GrumpyUnk]

If you are adventurous, you can disassemble the switches for cleaning and lubrication. Most are a sandwich of two plastic housings with the gizzards trapped in place when the two pieces are snapped together. They will rust if left out in the weather. They are very cheaply made, and you can purchase replacements on multiple sites or at some dealers. I would suggest removing the old one(most are 2X philips head screw - JIS) and some spade lugs.
If you do not find loose connections or damaged conductors, then the switches could be problematic. Even brand new switches can be damaged if not protected during shipping or storage.
tom

[FrankenMech]

Of course the dealer should find and fix the problem. They may charge you for a new headlight bulb if yours has been damaged by mishandling. Are you working through a local dealer or some mail order dealer?

[tjb]

I live in Fla...ordered scooter from a place in California. Was brand new..in crate when it arrived. I been dealing with them but they had me fill out a warranty form .that was October 26th 2023..they said 3-90 days to hear back. I DID hear but they said they were waiting on customer and TECH .and being they haven't heard from customer .they assumed issue was fixed. I emailed and said NO .has NOT been fixed .I AM the customer. And was told no need to email back..they..or them..will get in touch with me when they get to that order. So Jan 26th will be the 90 days ..that. I told the company just because u are 2300 miles away don't mean anything. This needs to be resolved. Still waiting.

[FrankenMech]

Typical (un)warranty service from China scoot importers. You are SOL usually. You will need to telephone the company. When they no longer answer the phone you know your goose is cooked.

Better find a schematic that looks close and deal with the problem yourself. It is probably just wire connections, switch contact problems, and a new headlight bulb that must be carefully handled without touching it. China scoot headlights are a real PITA, dim, under-powered, and do not meet DOT specifications for the headlight sockets or bulbs. Look up LED conversions here and try that.

GrumpyUnk may be able to talk you through the conversion process.

Do NOT ride around without a headlight or it will burn up the voltage regulator.