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Post by 90GTVert on Mar 30, 2024 6:48:58 GMT -5
We've had high energy bills for a bit. A forum member was kind enough to try to help me with some HVAC issues with phone support, but he thought most likely repair was going to be expensive and the system is 12 years old with seemingly constant problems for the last 5 years so we just ran it on aux heat for months now. That has been expensive so we are getting the whole HVAC replaced with new vents and everything.
We had a home energy audit because it was only $100 though the electric company's program. They did a blower test where they put a fan on a door and push air through the house. The 34 year old windows and doors were what we were largely suspicious of, but they said those were surprisingly good. We do have a considerable amount of leakage between the living space and attic though. Air could easily be felt coming through all electrical sockets and around crown molding.
The energy auditor (salesman) recommended attic and crawlspace encapsulation to fix this and claimed it should create substantial energy savings. Crawlspace encapsulation is out for us. I think it would be the least effective and some have said that in our area it is common to have moisture/mold/mildew problems when the crawlspace is sealed so you would need to add a dehumidifier for another couple thousand dollars. Again the house is 34 years old and the crawlspace is still clean and dry. The auditor even commented how clean it was compared to what he sees often. I don't think that's money well spent at this point.
Our ceiling is 2x4s with roll insulation. The auditor said that we should have 12-16" of insulation for the ceiling to attic so they want to blow loose fill in, leaving a walkway to reach the air handler. They would also replace some recessed lighting buckets to be able to seal those off and say they will seal all electrical entries, around vents, plumbing and whatever else goes from living space to attic. A new bathroom fan would need to be installed with a timer because they say the house can be sealed too well and you need some circulation and they would re-route our bathroom venting because apparently it doesn't meet current code or standards. That's about $8,000 after energy rebates of around $4,000.
The company is from a couple of hours away, but that's who the local electric company deals with I guess. There's a local company as well, so we got them to come out for an estimate. That guy did an estimate for a somewhat similar treatment for $7000 before any rebates, but it doesn't sound as thorough and I think the other company is likely to do a better job there... but if it goes down substantially once he gets the rebate info it may be a much better option financially. He doesn't recommend this though. He says sealing the attic by spray foaming the underside of the roof and the gable ends would be a much better option and way more energy efficient. That's $11,000 before any rebates. That company also does HVAC, though they aren't who we're using for that, but says they will take care of getting an HVAC rebate for us if we go with them for either service... which the HVAC contractor never said anything about or the first auditor.
My initial thought trying to reason this out was that it makes more sense to seal off the living space because you're heating and cooling just that area basically. Less volume of connected space. The 2nd guy was very clear that the roof coating method is much better. I don't get it. I understand that the air handler and ducts are in a better controlled environment, but the attic and living space still "communicate" as they do now so you're heating and cooling a greater volume of air.
I've researched a little so far. I spoke with 2 good friends. One has done construction and the other was a roofer and now installs audio/video from simply hanging a TV to half million dollar home theaters so he's seen the range of local attics and crawlspaces from having to run wires and such daily. One friend said, you know when we install roofing there are ridge vents and soffit vents for a reason. The roof needs to breathe. He said he has definitely seen plenty of attics with spray foam on the underside of the roof though. He has only seen 1 that he recalls with 12-16" built up with insulation blown in and said most around here, even the high dollar homes, are just 2x6 ceilings. He agrees that it makes more sense to him to seal the living space though.
The other friend was immediately troubled by the idea of sealing the roof. In the estimate, it sounds like they would be sealing the whole roof and sealing off the soffit vents. Hard to tell 100% by the wording, but I can clarify at some point with the estimator. Anyway, that friend says NO NO NO to the roof stuff. He says we're asking for trouble. For one, the vents are there for a reason. The roofing needs to breathe or moisture can become an issue and is likely to in this area. Also, with foam on everything you won't know if you do get a leak. If a leak goes untreated then it will penetrate more and more of the roof and you could have some major damage before you ever know about it. He did say that modern construction may allow for more sealed areas by venting in other ways where needed, but thinks it's a terrible idea for us.
Some online research suggests that some realtors don't like selling homes with sealed roofs because it can be harder to make a sale. That sounds like a good indication that my friend is correct that it's risky. The HVAC guy says it works great though.
At this point, I think the roof solution is out. The idea of spending a bunch of money to potentially ruin the roof is not appealing and frankly scary. I'm doubting if we should do any of it right away. The HVAC is a must and we have given the contractor the green light there so we're just waiting on the contract and such. I live with my parents and they are retired on a fixed income and I sure don't make much money so it's not like we have money to burn here. I'm thinking we'd be better off to do the HVAC and see how that goes, which also gives us time to research and evaluate things better. Maybe go with the 2nd company on the ceiling stuff, because they should be comparatively cheap if they get the same rebates.
My parents are less skeptical than me and get sucked into sales a bit more so they have been leaning toward getting something done beyond the HVAC right now. Telling them that the estimate is only good for 20 days and then trying to offer a bigger discount if we do it within a week because one company needs to fill some time slots has an effect on them. To me it's just pressure sales. Yeah, material costs can change... but I don't think getting it done say late this year would be a substantial difference. The auditors and estimators are just like car salesmen. They want to get you in that car today so you don't look around, so you don't forget about them and so on. They also fall for the, I had my roof done and it saves $100 every month. Maybe... or you're just being a salesman... but to save $100 every month you must use a lot of power for heat and A/C in the spring and fall milder weather because that's a very high percentage for most homes.
Sorry it's a long post, but y'all know I'm not short winded and I wanted to provide the details that I think are relevant. If anyone has had this done, knows much about this, etc... I'd appreciate any input.
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Post by jackrides on Mar 30, 2024 14:18:11 GMT -5
Attic spaces Must breathe! Careful with gable end vents, they can admit wind driven rain or snow. 2x4 ceiling joists are odd, generally 2x6 is minimum. Sealing all openings from attic to living spaces is Very important. Spray foam from a can is great, wear disposable gloves and eye protection. Replace 'can' ceiling fixtures with surface mount before sealing the wiring. A good time to install ceiling fans, and bath fans (if needed). A timer can replace the fan wall switch and other than on/off has Nothing else to do with the fan. Now it is ready for 12" to 16" of insulation to be blown or rolled in. If roll, do not have the foil moisture barrier on it. If blown, be sure the soffit vents stay clear! So far you are still in DIY territory or FDI (friend do it, if (s)he fits better). Better than encapsulating crawlspace is to cover all dirt with thick plastic sheet with seams taped. All electrical and plumbing lines from crawlspace to living space should also be spray foam sealed. Taping to foundation wall also, but I've no clue about kind of tape. Crawl space does need to breathe, but I've closed mine in the coldest part of winter and hottest part of summer. If it gets musty, air it out. Are your floor joists insulated? they should be. Now to the HVAC. Evaluate ground water heat pumps. (They can also heat water.) Horizontal water lines can work If 1'-2' below the freeze line. Vertical is best, but more costly. Or, consider gas or propane for the supplimental heat source instead of enrichening the electric company. Back to the roof. Some roofing materials reflect sunlight or emit heat far better than others and have an Energy* rating. Real estate broker for 25 years. Always conscious of personal energy saving so I had more money for bikes.
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Post by oldgeek on Mar 30, 2024 15:07:33 GMT -5
You are correct in your gut feelings. They are just sales people trying to make as much money from you as possible, senior citizens are their prey of choice. I would not spray foam the roof, I have seen every single one here holding moisture, and require the attic space to be air conditioned or a dehu installed (more $$ for the company later) This could be different in your area, but doubtful. Blown in insulation is a good option. Sealing attic from living space will definitely help but the blown in insulation will do a good bit of that alone. As far as a new HVAC system is concerned that is a no brainer however I would go with a 14 or 14.5 seer system, no more. The higher seer systems are too problematic, and any money saved on energy will usually be eaten up by repairs over the life of the system. Are they replacing the ductwork too? Remember all HVAC (residential) systems have a 10 year parts warranty from the manufacture, but labor is not covered. Call me anytime. And if the crawl space is fairly dry, you should be good.
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Post by 90GTVert on Mar 31, 2024 12:30:38 GMT -5
First, thanks to both of you for the replies. Attic spaces Must breathe! Careful with gable end vents, they can admit wind driven rain or snow. 2x4 ceiling joists are odd, generally 2x6 is minimum. Sealing all openings from attic to living spaces is Very important. Spray foam from a can is great, wear disposable gloves and eye protection. Replace 'can' ceiling fixtures with surface mount before sealing the wiring. A good time to install ceiling fans, and bath fans (if needed). A timer can replace the fan wall switch and other than on/off has Nothing else to do with the fan. Now it is ready for 12" to 16" of insulation to be blown or rolled in. If roll, do not have the foil moisture barrier on it. If blown, be sure the soffit vents stay clear! So far you are still in DIY territory or FDI (friend do it, if (s)he fits better). Better than encapsulating crawlspace is to cover all dirt with thick plastic sheet with seams taped. All electrical and plumbing lines from crawlspace to living space should also be spray foam sealed. Taping to foundation wall also, but I've no clue about kind of tape. Crawl space does need to breathe, but I've closed mine in the coldest part of winter and hottest part of summer. If it gets musty, air it out. Are your floor joists insulated? they should be. Now to the HVAC. Evaluate ground water heat pumps. (They can also heat water.) Horizontal water lines can work If 1'-2' below the freeze line. Vertical is best, but more costly. Or, consider gas or propane for the supplimental heat source instead of enrichening the electric company. Back to the roof. Some roofing materials reflect sunlight or emit heat far better than others and have an Energy* rating. Real estate broker for 25 years. Always conscious of personal energy saving so I had more money for bikes. I won't be doing the attic for sure. A friend suggested to put some baffles in to protect the soffits and make a walkway to the air handler and rent a machine and blow in loose fill. We had a gable vent blow out during a storm a few months ago and by the time I got across the attic to the vent to cover it to keep rain out and back I was hurting. My back and knees can't take being bent over or crawling around for long at all. I don't recommend being fat and crashing scooters regularly to anyone considering either. LOL The underside of the floor has been insulated since new. We thought about other heat sources than electric, but we have no gas in the house for anything else and that stuff isn't terribly cheap either. Regardless, we've already got the HVAC contracted. You are correct in your gut feelings. They are just sales people trying to make as much money from you as possible, senior citizens are their prey of choice. I would not spray foam the roof, I have seen every single one here holding moisture, and require the attic space to be air conditioned or a dehu installed (more $$ for the company later) This could be different in your area, but doubtful. Blown in insulation is a good option. Sealing attic from living space will definitely help but the blown in insulation will do a good bit of that alone. As far as a new HVAC system is concerned that is a no brainer however I would go with a 14 or 14.5 seer system, no more. The higher seer systems are too problematic, and any money saved on energy will usually be eaten up by repairs over the life of the system. Are they replacing the ductwork too? Remember all HVAC (residential) systems have a 10 year parts warranty from the manufacture, but labor is not covered. Call me anytime. And if the crawl space is fairly dry, you should be good. The outdoor unit is 15 SEER and indoor is 18 so he said it's like a 16.5. From what I recall researching beforehand, we are required to have 15 SEER minimum here. Regardless, my parents wanted 16 SEER or better because that's what we have now and the company deals with Bosch who makes 15 or 18 so that's what the HVAC guy suggested. At least we're beating the new lower global warming refrigerant. All of the HVAC guys weren't looking forward to it. Only 1 had been trained on it so far, and seemed to like it the least if that says anything. Ductwork is included. That's what I meant to say by all the vents will be replaced. The guy we went with will do a full year of labor warranty, so at least if anything goes wrong initially there's some help guaranteed in the contract. Everyone says he does very good work... even the other HVAC folks. The only downside is that he can be harder to get in touch with quickly, so let's hope the A/C doesn't go out when it's 95 degrees like it did last year. I figured we could always go elsewhere if that was a problem, but I liked him being very detail oriented and very well rated by customers and peers so he seemed like a good one to have do all of the install. We're still waiting to see how the cheaper company comes out when rebates are factored in. From doing more research and understanding estimates better now, they are not sealing soffit vents or any attic ventilation with the attic floor treatment and my main concern at this point with the attic floor to indoor ceiling sealing is drywall damage. Sounds like nail pops are a given. Some say drywall can warp or crack. Guess there's not much you can do about that if you're going to add more weight on top of it.
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Post by chehystpewpur on Mar 31, 2024 13:57:36 GMT -5
im just gonna pop in to say housing code is different in different areas. im pretty sure he doesnt live in a snow area or heavy snow atleast. i worked as a contractor among many other things in my days and the spray foam insulation was gettin hot here as we have winter and many old insulations just dont cut it or are very bad to have around. its alot of the dust in houses here and its very bad for your lungs. foam seemed like the game changer till well seasons change. the foam seals and that means moisture gets trapped boards rot out and you cant tell till there is a major problem because its encased in foam now. so it turns out the foam was very quickly proven bad for most cases. as another said gable vents can also let in moisture because you never know what way the winds gonna blow. alot of old houses uses them very well but they were designed with it in mind so it was pretty protected.
nowadays we have ridge vents. if it was me id do a ridge vent on the house which will get the hot air out and keep the house more consistent temperature. many new houses come with one already as its the best passive thing you can do and its alot better than all those boxes they used to put every few feet for vents that leak. these dont leak. it should drop attic temps drastically. then if you still need more get some of that thick insulation rolls and roll it across the attic rafters. like a thick shag carpet instead of just being between if it has it.
it sounds dumb but some of the best insulated houses ive been in have been set up like that. soffit vents can help a ton too but critters always find a way in those.
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Post by oldgeek on Mar 31, 2024 19:30:16 GMT -5
Glad to hear you are getting it all taken care of. I really like the Bosch inverter condensers, they are very efficient, quiet and reliable which is a good thing because they are loaded with electronic controls and motor drivers. Make sure it gets registered with Bosch so you will get the full 10 year parts warranty. If it is not registered you will only get 5 years parts. A good installer will register it for you, some just tell you to do it and others never even mention it.
Anyone reading this, if you need a new HVAC system do it before 1/1/2025. That date is when the new equipment and refrigerants (which have a combustible component in them) will be forced down our throats. As a matter of fact it will be illegal to install a new system that uses the current refrigerant R410A after that date. Repairs on R410A systems will be allowed for years to come, but newly installed systems will be required to use one of the 3 or so new refrigerants. These new systems will be more expensive and complicated due to the safeguards required to use the new combustible refrigerants.
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Post by 90GTVert on Apr 1, 2024 4:58:28 GMT -5
Glad to hear you are getting it all taken care of. I really like the Bosch inverter condensers, they are very efficient, quiet and reliable which is a good thing because they are loaded with electronic controls and motor drivers. Make sure it gets registered with Bosch so you will get the full 10 year parts warranty. If it is not registered you will only get 5 years parts. A good installer will register it for you, some just tell you to do it and others never even mention it. The 2 negatives that I heard about Bosch were a single control board that is currently about $1800 to replace, so we made sure they were putting in some form of circuit protection. The other was parts availability and time. Everyone seemed to say they are quality systems, which is kinda what I'd expect from Bosch. 2 different HVAC guys complained of other companies being harder to work with than ever now. 1 was saying that either Trane or Carrier (can't recall now) has wanted him to repair brand new units with problems, when in the past that would be a warranty replacement. Another worked with Amana and said that he uses Bosch more now because he's had the same trouble with them. The big companies are always looking to increase profit, so they're probably all headed in the same direction. Anyone reading this, if you need a new HVAC system do it before 1/1/2025. That date is when the new equipment and refrigerants (which have a combustible component in them) will be forced down our throats. As a matter of fact it will be illegal to install a new system that uses the current refrigerant R410A after that date. Repairs on R410A systems will be allowed for years to come, but newly installed systems will be required to use one of the 3 or so new refrigerants. These new systems will be more expensive and complicated due to the safeguards required to use the new combustible refrigerants. The other reason that I found for doing HVAC now is that prices are supposed to rise, partly from the new stuff and partly because apparently (like seemingly everything else) HVAC is getting more expensive somewhat rapidly. Multiple people have suggested that cost will increase 25-30% on a new system in 2025. Some HVAC folks online have said that the new refrigerant won't be a big deal and that people worry every time there is a change. I talked to Scott long enough about it months ago that I don't trust that and lots of things have bugs when they're new anyway... especially if they're rushed due to govt deadlines. Some also said that all of the old refrigerant will make it's way up in price once the new stuff is out from more limited production. The other thing that has been clear in our process is to research the HVAC folks. Check MHIC license numbers, ask for proof of insurance and look them up online. Research showed that 1 has a journeyman's license only, which means that he needs to work under someone with a master license for some things. He said he had a master license after we only found the jman and when we looked that up it was someone else's name. We checked articles of incorporation for his business name and that person is not part of the company so I'm not clear on if that's on the up and up. Another checks out for license and insurance, but was considered to be in forfeit by MD dept of assessments which the agency said means that they are not legally allowed to do business in MD under their business name anymore, but that business name is on the van, the estimate and so on. It's a somewhat minor issue that got them there (failure to file basically an inventory tax) but it made me wonder if the stuff hit the fan and the insurance company found this out, would they weasel out of paying and then we'd be stuck in litigation.
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Post by jackrides on Apr 1, 2024 19:11:29 GMT -5
The critical points on a properly installed HVAC are the duct attaching areas to the vents. It is actually easy just tedious. The inner liner gets taped to the vent, then the outer duct material gets taped to the vent. By the way, Duct (or duck) tape is Not used. Correct is an expensive tape usually only sold at wholesale HVAC supply houses. It sticks forever to anything. Sealing the duct outlet to the wall (or floor or ceiling) should be a part of the job. There is a formal blower test for conditioned air staying in the living area, and is probably required for a certified energy rating (that should get you a better utility rate). Does sound like you got the checkout method of the contractor under control, best wishes on that.
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Post by 90GTVert on Apr 2, 2024 5:47:01 GMT -5
There is a formal blower test for conditioned air staying in the living area, and is probably required for a certified energy rating (that should get you a better utility rate). We've had the initial test. That's when they showed us how much air comes through electrical sockets, certain areas at the ceiling and so on. They have to do another after the work is done. There is a specific target for leak reduction in percent that must be met to qualify for a rebate and they will guarantee the rebate and take responsibility for it so I have no doubt they're sure they can do it. One of the companies was going to leave a large section of the attic as-is for storage. The other was going to make maybe a 4x8 platform above the blown in insulation (we've just got a Christmas tree and bulbs up there basically) and leave just a catwalk to the air handler. Having a section untreated that is the size of 2 rooms of the house makes no sense to me if the insulation is as good as pitched, so we asked the other company that was much cheaper on the estimate about a platform and more insulation coverage. Response was that the price will increase so now we're waiting on a new estimate to see how they compare now and still waiting on that company to quote us with rebates.
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Post by FrankenMech on Apr 2, 2024 13:37:01 GMT -5
I had a HVAC unit with a controller board for years. During that time I kept a spare controller board I repaired at the house (at my expense) so that I could replace it and did not have to wait for hours/days/weeks for someone to come out for service and possibly have to wait for parts (un)availability also. The price for a controller board was much lower for me than to have the service company quadruple it. I also determined that circuit protection would not help after the first failure. Failures were due to a mis-application of a fan control relay and poor programming for the micro-controller that was on the board. I ended up using the onboard relays to drive a remote mounted contactor with a simple toggle switch for heat/cool fan speed. That system prevented controller board failure for many years. It does not help when Jr engineers with no experience design parts, but big companies run by accountants will not pay for engineering experience, -therefore we as consumers pay again and again and again... Global warming is driving up the price for AC equipment. Demand is exploding with rising temps. There are many jack-leg HVAC service companies and techs out there.
Air handlers mounted in the attic were never a good idea but the design is a holdover from years ago with much cheaper energy prices. I still see them installed today though.
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Post by 90GTVert on Apr 3, 2024 9:59:39 GMT -5
I think we're gonna go with the local company for the attic floor sealing version of encapsulation. After rebates, it looks like about $3,500 including the addition of a raised area for a small amount of storage and now more coverage with insulation. The power company and govt estimated lifetime savings is over $8000. I don't know how much I trust that, or if their lifetime applies to even me here, but we're hoping it's worth doing because we've used more energy than most on heating and cooling as long as I can remember even when everything was supposed to be working well.
The locals pointed out that the other company had made some false claims in their evaluation. We gave the locals the evaluation so we didn't have to pay for that again, but didn't give them any estimate info. The other company claimed we had 2" of insulation on their evaluation info, more recessed lights than we have and things like that. Some would bump up their cost to us and the locals said claiming so little insulation allows a bigger rebate. At this point, the locals are literally half the cost of the others... even with a little less rebate.
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Post by FrankenMech on Apr 3, 2024 16:06:46 GMT -5
Make sure your name is on the contract paperwork so that you can make a legit claim to that lifetime warranty. Even with that many HVAC companies change names every few years to skip out on those guarantees. Note: It isn't just HVAC companies that do that...
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Post by 90GTVert on Jul 19, 2024 16:24:01 GMT -5
We finally got the "air sealing" done in the attic. We've just been waiting on their schedule. It took 2 days of work for 3 guys. One of the days was upper 90s and humid so I know it was awful up there and they were wearing masks. One had the full white suit on at one point. Did I say done? Well... I looked up there last night after it was supposed to be done and it's not to the contract specs. When you come up the steps, like I am in the pic, there was supposed to be a 20" tall raised 4x8 section so we'd have a small amount of storage area. We've since cleaned the attic out and didn't really care, but they didn't put any raised area in. They also left a full 4ft between the stair opening and the dam for insulation. This is looking the opposite direction. Sorry, there's 1 light bulb in the whole attic that's 56ft long. The walkway to the HVAC was listed as 2' wide in the contract. It's 4' and then down to a little over 3'. All flooring was supposed to be removed behind the HVAC for max insulation coverage but they left a path back there too. This is the area near the steps. They left a 4.5' x 12.5' area to the left of the opening in the pic. Definitely not a 2' walkway. I guess this was their answer to storage space instead. The original inspector/salesmen were the ones telling us how they need to cover as much as possible and then the crew does that. In addition to that, they put in a new bathroom fan because it had to have a timer by law or to get the discount. Definitely for the discount, maybe code/law. The idea is that with it sealed you need some fresh air circulation so the timer on the fan does that. They forgot the timer. A guy came today for the follow up because they have to do a 2nd blower door test, before and after to report results for the government refund. We complained to him before it looked. He came down from the attic looking unhappy. Said he wasn't even going to do the blower door test today because it needs to be done the way it was contracted. He called the company and they are going to setup a time in another couple of weeks for a crew to come back and fix it all. Then he'll come back. He also said he wanted to see more insulation. I think it was supposed to be 16" above the existing and it's 16". He said it's a loose fill that should have more than is there. Everyone has been very courteous, even if they didn't speak English. We had a sheet on the couch and told them to sit down in the AC and take their breaks there if they'd like, but they went outside and sat under a tree. The best we could do was get them to take ice and cups for the drinks that they brought with them and I think 1 cold bottle of water each in 2 days. The inspector that came today seemed genuinely honest and easy to deal with. He said he's done it for 13 years and he likes to be honest for his own sake, and believes that it helps the company maintain a good reputation (which they do have locally). I was afraid he'd come in and say it would be just fine when we complained, but he was not dismissive at all. Next, I guess we'll see if anything changes. Even with an entirely new HVAC system that's allegedly more than we should need, when it's 95 degrees the house is 2-4 degrees above the thermostat setting in the afternoon and can't keep up. Pretty much just like the old system. A cool front came in yesterday when they were finishing the attic so we haven't had a good test of it since.
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