|
Post by Fox on Jan 9, 2012 17:40:05 GMT -5
I have a Tank Touring 150cc on my bench right now and all the bulbs are blown. It has the three prong plugs for the headlights. I put my volt meter on the plug with the engine revving and got nearly 20VDC At idle it reads nearly 15VDC. My question is: Can a stator be bad and cause this or is it definitely the Rectifier/Regulator? Thank You in advance.
|
|
vvtr
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 243
|
Post by vvtr on Jan 9, 2012 19:05:16 GMT -5
yeh change the reg rec asap before it boils the battery lol. seen 29v at the battery before & that took out the bikes ecu & cdi.
check the earth connections as well
|
|
|
Post by Fox on Jan 9, 2012 19:26:02 GMT -5
Thanks! I'll try a new regulator. I'm a good mechanic but electrical sometimes has me stymied. I always thought the stator had separate charging and lighting coils. Am I wrong? Voltage at the battery with engine revving nearly 19vdc. It has one of these right next to the rectifier. An eBay seller is calling it a diode. What the hell does it do?
|
|
|
Post by Goosey on Jan 9, 2012 21:42:18 GMT -5
The diode is kind of a mini regulator as I understand it. For specific curcuits. That's about my extent of knowledge on it. I don,t have any on my scooters, but came accross the information at some point when I had stator/light issues. There may be more than one of these on your setup. I hate electrical... :zap2:
|
|
|
Post by Fox on Jan 9, 2012 21:56:58 GMT -5
I hate electrical... I hate it more! :banghead:
|
|
|
Post by Fox on Jan 14, 2012 19:26:46 GMT -5
Okay so I replaced the regulator and it won't start with the new regulator. So I replaced the stator and put the old regulator back on and now the thing will start and run but the head and tail lights are dim. Hit the high beam and they go really dim. Hit the passing feature and they light up super bright. Hit the brake and those are super bright. Test voltage at the battery and it really doesn't seem to be charging very well. It only goes up a few hundredths of a volt when you rev the engine. So I'm thinking the regulator is bad and the replacement one I got isn't the right voltage or it's also bad. The old regulator has a white, black, red, green and yellow wire. The new regulator has red, yellow black, yellow, yellow and two of the yellow wires are showing signs of over-heating at the plug connector. QUESTION: Is there such a thing as an AC regulator and a DC regulator? I'm at my wits end with this thing. The new reg on the left is noticeably smaller than the old one: Old reg: New Reg: Wire melt on new reg:
|
|
|
Post by jmkjr72 on Jan 14, 2012 19:46:20 GMT -5
yes kinda there are diffrent regulaters for full dc bikes then there are for bikes that run ac and dc
the regulater rectifier converts all or part of the juice form ac to dc
|
|
vvtr
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 243
|
Post by vvtr on Jan 14, 2012 19:46:55 GMT -5
no m8 all stators put out ac... the purpose of the rectifier / diode is to convert the ac pulse into dc to charge the battery & often to run the cdi. the purpose of the regulator is to make sure the voltage doesnt exceed the maximum the battery, bulbs, cdi etc can handle.
first thing i would say is check all the earths, make sure you have good grounding points to the frame and no green corroded wires and connectors.
could well be that you have wired something up wrong.
have you replaced any bulbs recently??? i only ask cos a mate fitted a 6v headlamp bulb instead of 12 and it blew everything lol!
on the regulaor, you will usually have 3 wires going in from the stator, one from each of the 3 coils of the stator, and one going to the battery.... i woud suggest, just a guess, that the phase wires (from the genny) are the yellows / yellow & black, and the red is the charge wire that will probably go to the rectifier / diode.
the only way to know without a wiring diagram is to remove the flywheel / rotor and measure the resistance of each stator coil to earth and note the colour of the wire it connects to.
you will also see 2 one / 2 smaller coils, encapsulated in resin / varnish.... these are the ignition primry coils and have nothing to do with the charge circuit but will go directly to the cdi (in most cases)
very difficult to diagnose from afar lol!
|
|
|
Post by Fox on Jan 14, 2012 21:14:50 GMT -5
Thanks for the help so far... Okay, so upon further investigation I found the plug connector for the diode was melted. I un-plugged it and now the low beams are bright but the high beams are still dim. I am going to try replacing the plug with two female spade connectors. From the looks of the cooling fins on the diode it looks like it supposed to get warm but if the plug connector melted, it's probably fried I figure.
|
|
vvtr
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 243
|
Post by vvtr on Jan 14, 2012 21:52:18 GMT -5
chances are that was a poor connection that resulted in a high resistance creating a lot of heat. ive seen some pretty shitty connections on chinese scoots & bikes lol. i suggest you look at the headlamp bulb conector - i think you will find its corroded / loose / burnt. most of them are just a copper spring that pushes (badly) against the solder terminal of the bulb. ive had this before mysef & hard soldered the copper terminal straight onto the bulb = no more bad connection & that bulb will probably outlive the bike!
same with the poor quality block connectors.... you'd be better off cutting back the burnt wire & replace the block connector with separate m&f bullet connectors.
it would be impossible to say whether the poor connector has caused the regulator / rectifier to fail or vice versa.... whats important is to check ALL the terminals and connectors for corrosion / burning & replace as necessary.
|
|
|
Post by Fox on Jan 14, 2012 21:58:26 GMT -5
Yes. I went ahead and shut down the shop for the night cause I'm out of connectors. The headlights are the H4 three prong type and the connector plugs look fine. I'm going to do like you say and go through every single wire and connector plug on the entire scoot tomorrow. I wish I wasn't so retarded with electrical. Thanks a lot for taking time to help me. You guys rock! :rockon:
|
|
|
Post by Fox on Jan 17, 2012 19:26:55 GMT -5
Okay, so I went through the entire wiring harness and found a couple of bad connections. Re-taped it all up and tried it on the scooter and I got the same results. The battery isn't charging and the lights are dim. I got another reg like the one that melted and it too melted so it must be the wrong regulator. Pisses me off. Here I go spending more money on this P.O.S. Ordered one from New Jersey and one from Ca. so I increase the odds of getting one that works.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jan 17, 2012 22:16:57 GMT -5
the r/r's that came on 3 crated bikes i have here charge at over 16 volts. when i took a new r/r and tested it on each bike the charging went to 14.3 but the lights were dead. turns out the r/r had yellow and white reversed. dont trust how its wired.
in other words, the new rectifier/regulators themselves have white and yellow in the reverse location from the overcharging ones that came on the bikes. I switched the location of white and yellow on the plug and boom..everything works.
in your pics the r/r's are straight wired but something else down the line may have its wires crossed.
|
|
|
Post by Fox on Jan 17, 2012 22:27:57 GMT -5
Those 2 new reg's I tried that melted don't even have a white wire. They have 3 yellows a red and a black. They gotta be for some other scooter or a go-kart or ATV or something. If these reg's I just ordered don't fix it I'm going to admit defeat. I've searched and searched and I can't find a regulator who's wires are coming out of the box in the same color order as the reg the scooter came with. They are all different. Go China!
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jan 17, 2012 22:30:24 GMT -5
do you have a diagram for it?
|
|