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Post by 90GTVert on Jan 10, 2012 14:14:34 GMT -5
This isn't really for scoots. I was working on an F-350 Super Duty 4WD with some big, beefy, brakes up front today. The rotor on one side was stuck. It doesn't help that it's a waterman's truck, so it's always around water I'm sure. I beat that thing for an hour with every BFH around and penetrating oils etc... and it didn't budge. Took a break from the brakes and looked online while I was at it. Came across this vid...
I had to use larger nuts/bolts for the bigger truck and I did have to press then rotate then press then rotate a few times, but it got it. Since it helped me out, I made sure I thanked the fellow and gave the vid a like/thumbs up on YouTube, and I wanted to share it with you all.
I've got pressing tools and pulling tools for all sorts of stuff, but never even thought about trying it this way on the rotor. You could use the same principle for other things as well. Pretty cool.
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Post by Fox on Jan 11, 2012 20:32:15 GMT -5
Human ingenuity at it's best!  |
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vvtr
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 243
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Post by vvtr on Jan 12, 2012 12:37:55 GMT -5
Human ingenuity at it's best! another example.... many years ago i ha a huuuge motorhome based on a ford truck & the core plugs had popped out of the engine. the ony one i couldnt get at was behind the flywheel, which was behind a huge 2" thick 3ft wide bell housing.... no exaggeration, i tried for 2 weeks to shift it lol, blackened all my fingers, bent my spanners, tried jacks, burning gear, even a winch... useless,. so talikng to a mate who is a royal engineers mechanic, he was utterly disgusted at my fail. "thats a 20 minute job. i thought you were supposed to be good on the tools.... have you got any stud iron?" so off we went & bought some m16 threaded bar, he heated it up & bent it into 2 crank handles, popped it through the bolt holes in the housing with a few locknuts attached then just wound both handles clockwise. :lol: WTF!!!! it just rolled back. in less than 15 mins he'd removed the clutch & flywheel, fitted the core plug, realigned the clutch and then just wound the 2 handles anticlockwise to draw it back in. i was totally gobsmacked lol!!! he said look, when you're stuck in a ditch with helicopter gunships firing at you, you cant be hangin round for 2 weeks doing a job like that lol!!! a well earned case of beer imo! :clap: worth remembering if ever you get a similar problem!!! |
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Jan 14, 2012 23:37:09 GMT -5
I have to admit, thats a great idea. I would love to say yeah I thought of that or was shown that and have been doing that for years but it would be a lie lol.
My method is always spray PB Blaster in by the studs and let it sit then hit it hard head on ....in-between the studs..or as close as you can get..close into the hub area...instead of behind on the rotor surface ..... and that will 'shock' the rotor loose...for lack of a better term.
Sometimes it takes lots of spraying and soaking and hammering but the rotor always comes off...eventually
I like this idea much better! faster and less messy! thanks for posting!
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Post by aeroxbud on Jan 18, 2012 8:36:21 GMT -5
Thats good. On my toyota it has 2 10mm holes which you can put bolts through onto the hub, works the same just from the other way
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2tfvr
Scoot Member
Posts: 30
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Post by 2tfvr on Jan 28, 2012 11:10:58 GMT -5
this one saved LOTS of bruised knuckles and expletives.
on my part i'll put some old disc pads underneath the bolts or something to spread the force of the bolts to minimize accidentally warping or damaging the disc while rotating the rotor after a couple of turns on one spot. plus doing the prep work that 1FASTQMB stated.
if you observe motorcycle mechanics particularly on big bikes, they're approach is different in tearing down any part due to it's compact package. and this video's solution is one good example. car guys like me generally will do what the first part of the video showed.
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