Girl with several questions

[lauruven]

As stated I'm a girl and although I have some knowledge of engines & carbs & workings of them & on them my knowledge is limited. So you may have to dumb it down. So a few months ago I purchased a 2021 wolf blaze scooter from someone I kinda know. The guy told me he had made scooter a 100cc, reflecting back I think this guy is more of a scooter hack then a self proclaimed scooter know it all. I met him on a referral thru advanced auto when I was having trouble with my previous scooter. Which he never did fix. So anyway come to find out his claim to it being 100cc on the scooter I recently bought from him was because he purchased a bbk (surely thru amazon) & replaced carb so it's bigger then the stock one it came with, muffler, & spark plug cable. He claimed scooter went 50-60mph easily. Which I found out after purchasing was a lie. It doesn't get above 45 on straightaway. I'd like if I could get it to go at least 5-10mph faster. What can I do? Now also here are some things I've done already and some issues I'm having.
THINGS IVE DONE: replaced cdi, voltage regulator, & spark plug cable. Took carb apart to check bowl & cleaned only 1 of the jets don't ask why I didn't clean other 1 I don't know. I'm nervous messing with carb because last scooter I feel I messed around with carb and it never ran right again. Maybe fluke why it never ran right again or fact that it was a 91 pos yamaha razz with multiple issues but I always attributed it to me messing with carb.
ISSUES: Difficult to start from cold start & will idle lower & lower til stalls unless I keep on throttle. Once warmed up it idles fine for most part and won't stall & will start right up if shut off. Sometimes after riding extended period of time it will idle rough like it will idle slightly higher then back down to normal & when it does this the scoot shakes slightly. Should I replace starter or something else? Also when on throttle going downhill or when fully open on throttle for extended period of time it will backfire a little & on a few occasions it what I would call hiccuped before backfire on straight way while fully open. Which was a bit startling 1st time I encountered it to happen. Backfire isn't loud but I notice it. Guy told me he likes to run his carbs lean could this be causing that or something else? Please any and all advice would be greatly appreciated.
Also why can I never find this brand scooter when looking for parts? What is it called so I can look up parts and stuff for it?

[airindestrangler]

It is very hard to diagnose problems like this via the internet. Sometimes you need to have things in front of you before you attempt anything.
I am guessing here but to me it sounds like your running problems stems from possible air/vacuum leaks around the intake or hoses connected to it, making the engine running lean. Try to block off any hoses and spray carb. cleaner or starter fluid on and around the intake, and see if it reacts to that in any way. Try the same WITH hoses too. Be careful of directing the "Parts Cannon" against your scooter. New parts doesn't always mean they are good parts.
Good luck!

[GrumpyUnk]

What he said, plus read up on the 'byvalve'(essentially an automatic choke). If it does not work, the engine will run poorly when first started and is likely to be difficult to start when cold.
You could clean and adjust the idle circuit. The small brass slotted thing on the side of the carb, possibly under a plug you must remove, adjusts the idle fuel mixture, and from the factory is likely set pretty lean.
Personally, 45 is about as fast as I would go on one of these. Tire balance, stopping power, and so on may not be really capable above that, but it is your choice.
You could rotate the carb w/o removal and check the pilot jet if that's the one you skipped. It affects mid-range operation.
If you have a non-factory filter installed, it may also make the mixture too lean as the carb depends upon a bit of airflow restriction induced by the air filter and box.
tom

[lauruven]

Thanks for dumbing it down a bit. The carb, air filter, & muffler are all not factory the person I bought it from said he replaced these things. He also had speakers installed that I found to be kinda dorky nor would I of been caught blaring them ever while scooting around. I'd feel like a even bigger dork then I already do while driving it sometimes. I wish I had bought a 150cc or even a street bike or enduro instead after driving this around for a while. But maybe next year. I'll just have fun with this 1 til that day comes. Plus I feel safer sorta taking my daughter on it then if I had a street bike or anything else. It was always frowned upon in my household growing up to have any type of 2 wheeled transportation because my mom was in a bad motorcycle accident when she was 16 so even though my dad would be able to help me work on it he won't and instead told me I was going to kill myself on that thing. Thanks dad I seem to b doing fine but maybe if you'd give me a hand I'd b less likely to kill myself I wanted to say. So it's great to be here and have such a wealth of knowledge from others who are willing to give advice so Thanks again

[GrumpyUnk]

Unless the jetting is changed from factory, replacing the air filter housing assembly and the filter media with 'something else' can lead to a lean/rich condition and cause difficulty starting, poor idle, hesitation on acceleration, and an engine that is not running properly.
IOW, unless the jetting is changed from OEM, changing the other parts can lead to problems. Unless it was tune, it will likely be problematic. Tuning is a repetitive process, fitting new jets, running, reading spark plugs and observing performance, and then repeating until it is deemed 'satisfactory'. Previous owner may or may not have done all that.
You can go back to stock by replacing with OEM style air cleaner stuff, available online. I bought replacements for less than $20 that made a pretty noticeable difference.
If you want to go faster, it will take time and effort to tune for best performance. Big Bore Kits - BBKs - can replace a smaller piston/cylinder with one of larger diameter and provide a good bit of power increase. The carburetion generally would need to be tuned to deliver more fuel at highe rpm due to the increased volume per revolution. Jet size suggestions are scattered around the site and my memory is void of numbers. BBKs are available in steps, 63cc, 72cc, and 90/100 but I don't know all details. I have used the 47mm bore size, about 72cc in displacement for a good increase with limited increased demands on connecting rod and crank bearings.
tom

[lauruven]

Does getting a bbk require boring out the cylinder? I was told by my ex that boring out the engine would cause it to overheat & would cause the engine to not last as long due to thinner walls. Is that true?

[lauruven]

So to tune the carb do I adjust both the screws, the fuel & the air? And screwing inwards vz outwards I'm assuming is giving it less of whatever screw I happen to b turning? To check spark do I get a spark tester or is there another way. I noticed that the threads to where the spark plug screws in when I took it off last where stripped. I'm hesitant though I know it's necessary to re thread them but that would require dismantling the engine to ensure I don't get any metal flakes in cylinder which I'm nervous about doing. I was able to get spark plug back in miraculously but I'm nervous having to take it in/out & that I won't b able to get it back in next time. Forcing me to rethread it. I'm nervous that I'll do smtg and it'll never run again or smtg. Wish someone was in ct and nearby to help & show me how to do all this but guess I'll have to take leap of faith & trust that it will b ok. Also if I de regulated it would that do anything and what tool do I need to get that thing off that rhe belt is on? A gear puller?

[sinfull]

1st what type of carb is on the bike ? A slide carb or cvk ? Cvk has a butterfly valve and slide goes up and down, easy to identify one rotates in the hole one goes straight up and down

[lauruven]

I'll have to look I thought they all just screwed in and screwed out. I'm currently stranded with fuel dripping out air filter & stupidly no tools on me. Prior to it not restarting it back fired a few times while driving to destination. Had been out driving for bout an hour prior to shutting it off twice and at 2nd shut off won't catch turning over.

[GrumpyUnk]

Sometimes thumping the carburetor with the handle of a screwdriver(plastic/wood) will jar the needle valve the float pushes to close off fuel supply and it will stop flowing excessive fuel. Of course you must have access to the carb to thump it. A length of wood may allow reaching in from the side rather than removing the 'bucket' and reaching down.
Unless the carb has been allowed to sit for a length of time so the fuel can turn into something besides a liquid, the cause for float valve leaking can be attributed to a spec of something that came from the fuel line. The filter should catch most, but apparently they do not.
If you have fuel coming out the air cleaner, you have a massive leak in the float valve, or more likely, the needle is jammed in the bore it rides in. That's why sometimes a thump helps. It jars the needle loose...
tom

[lauruven]

So I took the carb partially apart last night to check the bowl for debris and clean the jets. 1 jet was ok but when I removed the main jet it was bent. I wish I was able to post pics of what it looked like. I'm assuming the jets do not have any bends in them and are straight. This was the jet that is much wider then the other. I hadnt seen this message prior to doing this. Since the carb is apart should I take the top off to access the float. The carb by the way appears to be stock. I'm not 100% where to go from here or should I buy a new carb?

[GrumpyUnk]

Search for a pic of a jet. They are short and stubby, and unlikely to be bent. If you have a CVK carb. More likely the needle is bent, and possibly the emulsion tube(again, not likely).
You can purchase a new carb, or attempt to straighten your needle. You would remove the vacuum chamber cover(on top, 4 screws), and pull the diaphragm and slide. The needle should come out through the top, readily. Use a small hammer on a flat surface to straighten. Roll till you have a 'hump' up, and hammer it down GENTLY until it reaches the flat. Roll again... repeat until it rolls smoothly or pretty close. Re-assemble and see if it works.
A new carb is easier, costs more, but is likely to work. Better.
tom

[GrumpyUnk]

In response to a message:
The emulsion tube should be a tube of brass, hollow, with multiple holes drilled across the tube spaced along its length. It gets jammed up into the carburetor above the main jet. The main jet is threaded on one end, and has bosses(flats) on the other end that can be grabbed by a socket or adjustble wrench. The jet will screw into the carb, and has a hole drilled in the middle of a specified diameter. The hole meters fuel at a specific rate depending on the vacuum in the carb venturi to pull fuel up through the jet, through the emulsion tube(where it gets all bubbly with air bleeding in through all those holes in the side of the tube) and flows around the needle. The needle is pulled from the enulsion tube more and more as engine rpms increase, and because it is tapered, it allows more and more flow of the bubbly/foamy fuel:air mix to fly up and get sucked into the engine.
End of foamy fuel, it never goes back to the carb and is gone for good.
If the emulsion tube is bent or smashed it likely needs replacement. If the needle is bent or damaged, it likely needs replacement.

I will post this on the site as emails do not get around so I don't generally get into them.
tom

[lauruven]

Thanks yes the emulsion tube is def bent and some of the holes on it are therefore pinched closed. I unfortunately have a bigger problem now and that's while riding it up and down my street the idle mixture screw fell out. The 1st time I was able to find it but the 2nd time I lost it completely. So scoot has been out of commission for while now. I'm guessing this bout to be money pit has compounding issues since prior to the idle mixture screw falling out some how I noticed oil very slightly and slowly leaking from cylinder. So I've waved the white flag and am having it sent to shop on the 9th. Along with 1st fixing the primary problems I'm going to ask them to do whatever modifications they can do to get it to go faster once running properly. I'm sure this will cost a pretty penny. I wish I knew someone in CT that could come help me at my house and show me how to do all this but maybe once it's fixed I can start fresh and not have all these overwhelming problems at once & will be easier for me to learn what to do.

[GrumpyUnk]

The idle mixture screw falling out is likely caused by it being adjusted too far out to the point that the spring preventing it rotating is just not pushing tight enough. My solution would be to buy a replacement carb. You need one given the emulsion tube damage report.
You will be charged a good bit for hourly labor. And you will get a nice charge for another carb unless they have a junk carb that has a needle that will fit. Likely a charge to 'clean & rebuild' the carburetor plus the parts - used - at a good markup.
Personal opinion is you would pay less overall to order a new carb from DaRiver or DaBay(my names). Put it in by disconnecing everything, removing and then doing the reverse.
As far as the oil leak. Pics showing the leak spot would help. If base or head gasket, the charge will be for R&R the cylinder & head, replace gaskets, PBT and adjust valves.
If the cam/rocker cover, it is 4 bolts... new O-ring gasket for a buck.
If you cannot do your own maintenance, owning a low priced scooter will likely cost more in shop time than expected, sometimees half or more of the purchase price for simple tasks. Professional(reallly? are they TRAINED?) mechanic time is not cheap. Locally ~$100/hr is not unusual. It adds up quickly.
Locally there was a repeating ad on FB for a mech that would come to your house and do repairs and maintenance at a more acceptable rate. You might want to check FB and c-list. A cycle shop has to cover the overhead daily where a less-pro tech can do the job at a lower rate. Be aware of FBN, and get a reference you can call, and get a specific list of what will be done, the total labor and the total for parts. A good tech can estimate reasonably. I am not demanding an exact figure, but to say $100-400 as an estimate is opening up to a huge bill, and is a ridiculous range. If the thing rattles like it is full of loose hammers... don't expect a fix for $50. If it has a poor idle, hard to start... that is more reasonable.
Hard starting in most cases is a carb that has some TINY port clogged, or a dysfunctional cold enrichment. Can be fixed mostly by a bit of cleaning. Sewing needl - the TIP - sized holes feed the enrichment and the accelerator pump. The idle jet is close to that size. They clog in a heartbeat......... I use ONE strand(?) of a wire brush to poke through idle jets and the float bowl orifices.
tom