|
|
Post by kyokyokyii on Jun 12, 2024 14:14:48 GMT -5
I have a taotao atm50a1 50cc qmb139 with a 47mm bbk.
(Had just got, well thought I got everything properly together and running great)
...BUUUUUUUUTTTT it's another ordeal....
So now....
I pray it's nothing serious,
Yesterday i ran her like I do except not as heavy about 1/3rd of the ride (13 miles or so for the whole ride) and on the last quarter mile or maybe close to half. I started hearing this weird almost cricket noise. So I ran her slow. Got home let her sit a bit. Cause I felt the left side crank and gear. HOLEY MY MOLEYS! DAMM hot....
She is pretty hot everything time but I can usually touch it for a couple seconds. This time nope! So today I turned her on while on center stand.
She sounded fine, about to go get gas for a small ride to put her under load.
I'll update when I can, but any ideas why that noise would happen and she didn't want to catch like she was
As in shift and go. Maybe just a valve adjustment again or oil change but.... given my current situation I don't have any of my tools.
I had just cleaned her out and put my old left side crank cover which I strip completely off the Kickstarter and the guts. I pulled the variator apart and cleaned that, went to put the sucker back together and the ramp plate got stuck... hour later was able to get it off (ssp-g aftermarket variator w/ dr. Pulley 7g slides) hand drilled out the ramp plate so it'd spin freely again... ran great, even got her up to 47mph gps verified. Even then she didn't get that hot.... that sound seemed as if it is from the clutch pulley but this morning no sound....
Uuuhhhhhgggg..
!!!¡!!!
Thank you for whom ever decides this post is worth their time!
SALUD
|
|
|
|
Post by GrumpyUnk on Jun 13, 2024 7:56:58 GMT -5
The thought that came to mind was that heat can come from a few sources. The first is the engine itself, which reportedly has a new piston/rings/cylinder. If they have not been driven a lot since assembly, they may need more miles/time to wear in a bit. Second source is friction causing heat due to slippage. If the belt is worn, it may not be holding firm on the variator or the clutch pulley. If the sides of the belt are shined, that comes from wear and slippage. Does it feel/drive as if the belt is slipping, or can you open the throttle and feel the pull?
Perhaps you need a replacement belt. The variator should slide readily and the clutch should do the same. Have you taken a look at the ramps inside the clutch? If they are worn, or in need of cleaning and lubrication, you may get more slippage than normal.
I do not remember CVT cases being too hot to touch, but could be mistaken.
tom
|
|
|
|
Post by kyokyokyii on Jul 31, 2024 21:52:19 GMT -5
Most definitely changed the belt.
No I have not cleaned my rear pulley, but I do clean out my leftside crankcase and variator at least once (if not twice) a month because I have yet to make or purchase a screen for the vent hole (or my kick starter gear hole). I did have a problem with getting the ramp plate stuck on the crankshaft. Not to much damage was done there. Ssp-g variator and drive face w/ 7g Dr. Pulley sliders,
The heat though was before that...
And since then I have gotten her to good speed (if I can find how to post pictures I will show my GPS speedo records from my watch.
"(Update)"
I've done a full carb., float bowl, main jet upjet (94), pilot (33), diaphragm check, needle adjustment, went back to my original Manifold, got new clamps), blew out my filter, cleaned the pipe attachment, new naraku exhaust with silencer(took off silencer), valve adjustment (.003 IN. & .0004 EX.)..
[UPDATE]
from that I've been busy and well,
Got a new clutch sspg performance clutch, Bando belt, (going back down in weight for sliders...), better ramp guards, new air filter, switch carbs, then switched back due to lack of gas...., naraku ignition coil, decomp tube off right side, and oil change as well as gear oil [15w_40] and [80&140] <need new intake or figure how to fit my sspg where it don't leak from the boot> ... oh yeah replaced my cvt cover with everything how it should be bushings and K.S. gears..
Anyways everything was going grand besides too heavy weights.... but on the way home, she was like getting stuck in gear it felt like, then a weird vibration I guess you could say switching to second gear or at the top of the first then if I throttled her more she'd stop and be okay, but slowing down and trying to go neutral wasn't working. And it was like she was revving and not grabbing...
|
|
|
|
Post by kyokyokyii on Jul 31, 2024 21:53:13 GMT -5
The thought that came to mind was that heat can come from a few sources. The first is the engine itself, which reportedly has a new piston/rings/cylinder. If they have not been driven a lot since assembly, they may need more miles/time to wear in a bit. Second source is friction causing heat due to slippage. If the belt is worn, it may not be holding firm on the variator or the clutch pulley. If the sides of the belt are shined, that comes from wear and slippage. Does it feel/drive as if the belt is slipping, or can you open the throttle and feel the pull? Perhaps you need a replacement belt. The variator should slide readily and the clutch should do the same. Have you taken a look at the ramps inside the clutch? If they are worn, or in need of cleaning and lubrication, you may get more slippage than normal. I do not remember CVT cases being too hot to touch, but could be mistaken. tom Sorry it tooook soooooooooooooo long to reply.... been working and working her.... |
|
|
|
Post by GrumpyUnk on Aug 2, 2024 8:31:55 GMT -5
Something may be stuck such as the variator if it will not 'downshift' as you come to a stop. Check that the Vee behind the clutch bell can be squeezed open and will close on its own, and seems to move smoothly. There are internal ramps that guide the parts. They can wear and cause the 'pin' in the slot to get bound up. Takes some miles, but can and will happen as things wear. Check the weight 'slots' in the variator to be sure they can move back and forth freely, and that the variator can move to open the vee, and also to close it up.
That's about all the parts that move in the CVT... shotgun, you might say, but inspection and lube as needed along with cleaning out debris are necessary now and again. The belt should be in good contact with the walls of the variator so it will turn the clutch when the engine starts...
tom
|
|
|
|
Post by kyokyokyii on Aug 5, 2024 18:45:05 GMT -5
So I got a new clutch ssp-g performance.
Brand new maybe have put 50miles on it?
She gears down now, without issue.
But I can't get over 35. Like the belt wants to grab but something is in the way.
I had marks ALL the way up to the variator drive face teeth.
High rpm then she will act as if she wants to gear up but then doesn't cause it jerks a little bit and stays In 3rd and revs really high..
Was going 45mph NO Problem....
Now getting over 36-38 seems like it wont....
Maybe could be the Manifold being the original (with the bend and not smooth....) anyways.
About to take cover off and see what it all looks like..
How do I post pictures or video??
Thank you brother, appreciate your support!! <3
|
|
|
|
Post by aeroxbud on Aug 6, 2024 5:30:39 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by GrumpyUnk on Aug 6, 2024 11:17:53 GMT -5
Quote:"I had marks ALL the way up to the variator drive face teeth. "
HAD
Check now. If your replacement belt was longer, it would not pull the other end as far down in the VEE, and would have essentially a lower drive ration.. higher numerically, but lower in RPM/wheel turns.(less wheel turns)
It seems CVT systems are very sensitive to belts length, width, material, and also to weights and springs at the other end... Tuning is a PITA, IMO. Need repeatable conditions - road, temp, etc and time. Also belts, weights, springs... Oy.
tom
|
|
