2012 Dong Fang 150cc Model DF300STF

[redshamrocks]

Hello everyone

Looking to see if someone can help me out before I chase ghosts.  I just bought a Dong Fang scooter (150cc "Sunny").  Very nice looking scooter but as you might expect, Chinese quality gremlins all over it.  Anyway, reason I actually bought this one is it is a 2012 model with 7 ACTUAL Miles on it!!  Got it for a couple hundred bucks with title.  Classic little old lady bought it to go to the store, didn;t like how it rode and parked it in the corner of her garage.  Unfortunately she passed away.  Anyway, I was able to clear out the old gas, put some fresh gas and starter fluid in it and she fired up.  I even rode it home 2 miles.  Now I go to ride it and I don't have spark.  Checked the coil and that traces OK.  Went to the stator wires (5 wire set up) and I have nothing.  No Ohm reading whatsoever on the Exciter or power wires.   I realize the stators for these things are pretty cheap, but any thoughts on one going out after 9 miles and/or sitting for 12 years?   
If it is a new stator - what model am I looking for?  I can't find anything on this scooter.  The engine family is: CDGFC 150M3W, if that helps.

Any help would be appreciated
Thanks

[90GTVert]

I like to take the flywheel off and look at the stator when I need to replace one on a Chinese scooter. Match up everything you can with pics from sellers, definitely including the connectors.

You will need a tool to remove the flywheel. Good news is they can be obtained at very low prices :
amzn.to/3XVQq5M

[FrankenMech]

Congratulations for finding the correct section to post in. I also have a 2012 DongFang scoot,  but it is a 50cc and has three wheels, -a reverse trike.  I wish I had purchased a 150cc, the drag created by three wheels and weight overtaxes the 50cc. The generic maintenance manuals that are available on this site do very well at covering your scoot, -it is very generic and very subject to cost cutting by the manufacturer.

Insects and vermin can work their way into places on a scoot that has been sitting so long. That can cause damage, often to wiring.

[GrumpyUnk]

What they said. It might be a good idea to check all the wire connections coming out of the flywheel(blower) housing to see they are tightly pushed together and have not wiggled apart. After 7-? miles, it may have been loose from the factory(but we KNOW that NEVER happens...).
I would also remove the cover(whatever part) needed to access the rats nest of wires under/near the handlebars, likely(always?) behind/below the headlight. Same thing on connectors.
The igniition uses a pulse from the stator, a coil operating box and a coil to generate spark. The CDI is a Capacitive Discharge Ignition which may be AC or DC powered. The DC units are larger, and require battery power to work. The AC units use voltage from the stator as the engine cranks over. Both operating power and fire signal come from the stator wiring. One from the stator, and another from the pickup mounted near the stator that signals once per engine revolution.
Check the wires, and likely you will find a connector that is not tight, but if you have a DC operated CDI, you will need to insure your battery is charged and has voltage. Check the wiring diagram(generic) for a 150cc unit.
tom

[redshamrocks]

Update... pulled the stator and tested it with multimeter. Not sure of the exact readings to be had but the ohm readings weren't crazy huge.
Pulled the coil today and did not get good readings on this....thought it was ok when I originally checked it but maybe I screwed that up. I just ordered a new to be sure. They are cheap enough on Prime day I can throw a few parts at rather than pulling more plastics off.

It has an 18 windings stator and the torx bolt it pretty much crap to get the exciter wires off.

It is engine family 150M3W / CDGFC. Any manuals / specs for this engine type?
Thanks again everyone

[GrumpyUnk]

I think if you used a VOM on the windings, you could look at a schematic to know ballpark given the windings (mostly) connect to ground at one end, and are made of copper wire. Check the lead from the stator to ground. Check that lead-to-lead you essentially are going down one winding to ground and then back out the other winding, thus would have two windings in series, and should have increased ohms. The ohms are different as the number of turns is different, which is the cause for the difference in voltage produced when running.
A schematic will show the other winding in the stator to produce V to run the CDI if equipped. The number of spokes(?) varies depending on the amount of amperage to be produced.
Have you checked the AC produced to run the CDI? You should get V spikes from it as the engine cranks over.

Have you checked that the kickstand has a KILL switch built in? With the kickstand extended, it may not allow the coil to spark to prevent one from riding off with the kickstand poking out and ready to toss the rider and machine for a loop if you turn left too soon... It could be a failed switch, or a loose connection on the wiring involved. Or it could be trying to start with the kickstand out...
tom