|
|
Post by drrummel on Aug 8, 2024 23:47:31 GMT -5
Newbie and 1st time owner of a scooter.
I was given a free scooter that doesn't run. It has been sitting for two years. The original owner lost his license and drove this scooter. He also did some questionable modifications. I look forward to asking lots of stupid question like, is my CDI box AC or DC? or why my gravity fed fuel system not filling the fuel filter.
|
|
|
|
Post by drrummel on Aug 8, 2024 23:58:20 GMT -5
I started with a new crank/no life at all situation. I know the ignition switch has the key broken inside. So is disassembled the body fairing to get to the wiring. I ended up removing the lock to remove the broken key and test. I was get sporadic electric test results. That is when I figured out that the ignition switch has THREE positions, not two. I reinstalled the switch and the scooter cranks over. I think I might have just doubles the amount work needed to get this thing running.   |
|
|
|
Post by drrummel on Aug 9, 2024 0:02:59 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by aeroxbud on Aug 9, 2024 5:22:54 GMT -5
Welcome to the forum.
The carb probably has a vacuum line attached to the carb. This will open the fuel tap when vacuum is applied.
If you suck on it, fuel should come out.
|
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Aug 11, 2024 5:16:13 GMT -5
Welcome! I'm also on the Eastern Shore.
Gotta love the positive battery wire with no protection.
|
|
|
|
Post by drrummel on Aug 12, 2024 10:18:21 GMT -5
Welcome! I'm also on the Eastern Shore. Gotta love the positive battery wire with no protection. Fuel line was brittle. I have replaced the fuel line and "fuel pump". I now see at least gurgling in the fuel line. I have not replace the vacuum lines. They still seem pliable. |
|
|
|
Post by drrummel on Aug 12, 2024 11:23:20 GMT -5
Welcome! I'm also on the Eastern Shore. Gotta love the positive battery wire with no protection. I'm now fighting a no spark issue. I've checked continuity of the coil wires back to the CDI. When cranking. I have less than a volt of DC current power to the coil. I have a stator regulator and new coil on order. How do you make sure you're ordering quality parts? If I fail figuring out why the coil has no voltage, is there a shop in the area? I called Preston Motorsports and they told me they're only doing motorcycles. No scooters. |
|
|
|
Post by drrummel on Aug 12, 2024 11:24:54 GMT -5
The coils has .7 ohms on the primary. Also imagine my surprise when I went to test compression and found out my compression tester won't fit in the spark plug hole.  . |
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Aug 12, 2024 22:25:54 GMT -5
I'm now fighting a no spark issue. I've checked continuity of the coil wires back to the CDI. When cranking. I have less than a volt of DC current power to the coil. I have a stator regulator and new coil on order. I never check voltage to coil. Maybe I'm wrong, but it's unreliable for me. I check the power out of the stator. Look for roughly 0.5VAC cranking from the pickup, or more. 50VAC from the exciter coil. CDI "test" is just to install another one and see if it works (preferably known good CDI). How do you make sure you're ordering quality parts? Deal with good people. ScooterTuning.Ca, PartsForScooters.Com. If I fail figuring out why the coil has no voltage, is there a shop in the area? I called Preston Motorsports and they told me they're only doing motorcycles. No scooters. I don't know of a scoot shop anymore. I had to think who Preston Powersports is, but Preston Ford bought Talbot Powersports. They're a Honda dealer, so if they don't work on scooters then what happens if you get a Ruckus, Metro, PCX? B&E basically next door has been helpful, but I've only used them for a couple of inspections and buying small stuff. The owner is a racer and hardcore rider... not just a guy with lots of cash to buy up businesses. |
|
|
|
Post by GrumpyUnk on Aug 13, 2024 13:16:59 GMT -5
If you don't have a wiring diagram, most generic scooter diagrams will be very close. They are available online in PDF format. Some on site, but I don't know where.
If the stator mounted behind the flywheel on the end of the crankshaft witht he blower wheel has more outputs than the two charging circuit and the coil fire pickup, then you likely have an AC voltage operated CDI. Most are AC, but some need a functional and charged battery to produce CDI output. The AC CDI's have a separate winding that is used to generate the power needed to operate the CDI. Count the outputs and you should know. The wiring diagram will also show wiring for a specific AC or DC CDI. compare...
I do not think you have a fuel pump, as gravity will feed fuel to the carburetor. Many have a vacuum operated petcock that shuts off the fuel flow to the filter and the float bowl. It has one vacuum line to the intake elbow that opens the valve when the engine is cranked over or is running(and producing vacuum). Fuel should flow when suction is applied to the single line. The other line is the outlet that feeds fuel. Inside the fuel tank is a plastic tube with partially screened walls. It screens big stuff, and allows fuel out. If the fuel is aged it may not be usable, usually yellow in color when it has become questionable. I would drain that fuel, check for water pearls, and decant the usable into a container to be blended with the fuel in your car/truck tank. It will be consumed with no noticeable difference as it is diluted and the other fuel in the tank will burn and cause this to burn also. Check the flow to the carb inlet for full diameter flow. There is likely a drain screw on the float bowl that can be used to drain old fuel. Likely it would be better to remove the float bowl if fuel was left for any length of time as it likely deteriorated to a gel that can become very gooey and clog things up pretty well. I'd remove the pilot and main jets, the emulsion tube, and check all for clogs. You should see light through the jets. The pilot can be cleaned using one wire of a stiff wire brush.
The needle valve should move freely. Check the float bowl for the tiny bleeds to the byvalve tube chamber and the accelerator pump inlet. Pinholes can get clogged and make both inop.
tom
Added: a brother and famiily live in Salisbury.
|
|
|
|
Post by drrummel on Aug 13, 2024 21:14:55 GMT -5
I bought a bunch of chinese parts from Amazon before I got your replies. I swapped my CDI for a "High Performance" AC CDI and got spark. I have to laugh at myself for disassembling so much of the bike when the CDI was accessible in the battery box. I have the exhaust off and the rear suspension brackets are loose since I need to replace both tire tubes. Youtube VideoI feel it is now okay to buy a battery and tubes. I am now committed to the project. I think I have fuel supply issue now. In the video you can see I can get it to run on starter fluid. I will measure the vacuum at the petcock. PS. I love these "High Performance CDIs / Coils with no specs or explanation of what they have changed. I think mine is high performance because it is in an orange case. |
|
|
|
Post by drrummel on Aug 13, 2024 21:35:36 GMT -5
I do not think you have a fuel pump, as gravity will feed fuel to the carburetor. Many have a vacuum operated petcock that shuts off the fuel flow to the filter and the float bowl. I agree. That is why I quoted “Fuel Pump”. I have seen plenty of internet posts (so it must be correct) calling it a vacuum operated fuel pump. If the fuel is aged it may not be usable, usually yellow in color when it has become questionable. I am sure it had gas in it when it was parted. But that was years ago. The tank and lines were bone dry. But carb varnish does not dry out. Likely it would be better to remove the float bowl if fuel was left for any length of time as it likely deteriorated to a gel that can become very gooey and clog things up pretty well. I'd remove the pilot and main jets, the emulsion tube, and check all for clogs. You should see light through the jets. The pilot can be cleaned using one wire of a stiff wire brush. The needle valve should move freely. Check the float bowl for the tiny bleeds to the byvalve tube chamber and the accelerator pump inlet. Pinholes can get clogged and make both inop. Thanks for the vote of confidence. But I have found that if I mess with a carb, it is the kiss of death. I know my weaknesses and will find a carb guy for assistance. But thanks for all the guidance. |
|
|
|
Post by drrummel on Aug 14, 2024 0:52:23 GMT -5
Petcock vacuum bounches between 5 to 9 inches.
|
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Aug 14, 2024 4:48:59 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by drrummel on Aug 16, 2024 16:24:57 GMT -5
Compression is about 110 to 115 PSI. I'm going through and fixing the electrical issues and trying to get the broken key out of the ignition lock. But I think my next true obstacle is going to be dealing with the carb. Neither be any Motorsports or Preston. Motorsports wants to deal with a no-name Chinese carb. The ones on Amazon are under $30. Is it worth just buying a new one off of Amazon and bolting it up? I'd imagine by the time you buy A rebuild kit. You're half of that anyway
|
|
. 
