Post by madrooster on Sept 23, 2024 23:58:12 GMT -5
Hi there, noob here, This is the first gas powered scooter I've ever owned. Not a mechanic but somewhat mechanically inclined. I bought a used Roughhouse 50 and enjoyed it well for about two weeks before the ancient belt it came with, disintegrated into powder. Then when I put on a new belt, enjoyed it for exactly a week, when the outer driven face on my transmission cracked! When that happened, the engine revved really high, lost power, and then stalled out, and I thought it was a broken belt, but that wasn't broken. Am nervous that there could be another unknown problem, along with what I do know. Also replaced the stator (after replacing bad battery), as it got spark but accessories and battery weren't working/charging, and the stator had higher than spec resistance. Still can't start it to test it properly though, without getting the transmission straightened out.
I believe it's derestricted already, as the speedo was reading up to 45-47 mph (yes I checked it wasn't kph, and that did seem correct in context of other traffic) if I was going downhill, tucking in etc, though would comfortably do 35-40. (One of those radar signs clocked me at 36 once when I wasn't pushing it hard)
So I guess perhaps foolishly, I ordered the NCY transmission kit, not realizing it didn't contain the outer driven face. Not a total loss, as my bell and clutch pads and rollers were all pretty worn, and I would eventually like to get the other performance upgrades. But I already had to wait two weeks for it, and a week for the belt I ordered first. (Didn't have time to open the case at that time, working a lot of OT and was using this to commute.) So I'm currently scouring for an outer driven face. The one closest to the gear box. Does somebody make a nice machined version? All I can find is the stock rolled one, and also don't know if that's even in stock anywhere.
Couple of the major questions:
1- I can't figure out how to get the flange ring nut off the clutch body without causing significant damage. A video I saw said it was a 38mm socket (went to a couple stores and the biggest they had were 36, and also those sockets all have an inner bevel, and it seems like a waste to buy a tool you have to immediately modify, for one single repair job.) Also, I measured it with calipers, and it read 38.6mm! Are these tool measurements designed with a bit extra?! I also tried a 12 inch crescent wrench, but couldn't manage to break the nut that way. Even rigged up a makeshift clamp with a ratchet strap to hold the clutch. And that doesn't include compressing the spring.
2- Should I use the springs from the stock clutch until I upgrade more? This kit came with a black comp spring and red clutch springs. I don't care about wheelies, I just want to be able to keep up with 45-50 mph traffic on major roads.
Incidentally, I chose the rollers in the kit that were closest to stock weight, to start with, though noticed marks on the driven face showing the belt had 1/8" left not used.
I believe it's derestricted already, as the speedo was reading up to 45-47 mph (yes I checked it wasn't kph, and that did seem correct in context of other traffic) if I was going downhill, tucking in etc, though would comfortably do 35-40. (One of those radar signs clocked me at 36 once when I wasn't pushing it hard)
So I guess perhaps foolishly, I ordered the NCY transmission kit, not realizing it didn't contain the outer driven face. Not a total loss, as my bell and clutch pads and rollers were all pretty worn, and I would eventually like to get the other performance upgrades. But I already had to wait two weeks for it, and a week for the belt I ordered first. (Didn't have time to open the case at that time, working a lot of OT and was using this to commute.) So I'm currently scouring for an outer driven face. The one closest to the gear box. Does somebody make a nice machined version? All I can find is the stock rolled one, and also don't know if that's even in stock anywhere.
Couple of the major questions:
1- I can't figure out how to get the flange ring nut off the clutch body without causing significant damage. A video I saw said it was a 38mm socket (went to a couple stores and the biggest they had were 36, and also those sockets all have an inner bevel, and it seems like a waste to buy a tool you have to immediately modify, for one single repair job.) Also, I measured it with calipers, and it read 38.6mm! Are these tool measurements designed with a bit extra?! I also tried a 12 inch crescent wrench, but couldn't manage to break the nut that way. Even rigged up a makeshift clamp with a ratchet strap to hold the clutch. And that doesn't include compressing the spring.
2- Should I use the springs from the stock clutch until I upgrade more? This kit came with a black comp spring and red clutch springs. I don't care about wheelies, I just want to be able to keep up with 45-50 mph traffic on major roads.
Incidentally, I chose the rollers in the kit that were closest to stock weight, to start with, though noticed marks on the driven face showing the belt had 1/8" left not used.
