05 zuma tuning issue

[ghostinyall]

I picked up another zuma for $300 already had some goodies on it so we'll worth the price. Well I tore it down and went through it and added a bunch but now at 1/4 throttle it cuts out and bogs.ive went up on main to a 90 and down to a 84 in and out on mix from 3/4-2 still about the same.
Here's the build.70cc stage6 streetrace big bore kit, yusani c16 pipe, dellorto 19mm phbg carb with pod filter, stage6 intake and reeds, stage6 torque control secondary, ncy pulleys,stage6 medium contra, stage6 sportpro variator with 5g. Weights. Malossi 13/44 gears, Naraku clutch bell
Any pointers or tips are appreciated. Been checking out the forum for awhile finally decided to join in.

[broyager]

Try much larger jets with the pod filter, or a little bit higher with the original airbox attached

[ghostinyall]

My next jet size on hand is a 100 didn't know if I should make that big of a jump up. I have another carb a dellorto phbg 17.5 AD which I thought about making an adapter for it to mount to my intake but it doesn't have the oil nipple on it my intake has one but don't much like the idea of it mixing from intake never tried one from there. I plan on having to go premix and with the new top end I just put in I've got premix in it currently at 50:1 with injection still hooked up

[broyager]

Worth trying the 100 for sure, a rich bog is much better than a lean bog.

100 might still not be big enough for the pod filter even, you won't damage anything from being too rich, but could definitely from being too lean.

I'm no expert though, grain of salt, 2c only etc

What size is the pilot jet?

[ghostinyall]

I agree with you I'm not new to 2t but new to one's this all and been years since dealing with tuning one. I am not sure on pilot size. Previous owner already had it on and before he stopped the threads of end of crank it would wheelie for days so I just went with how it was set up besides main.

[oldgeek]

Bigger MJ for sure with pod filter. Cut your tuning woes and put an airbox on it, quieter, better gas mileage and so much easier to tune the carb and CVT. The 19mm Dell is a great match to what you have. Depending on payload you should get 55mph+ easy.

[proy]

Would love to hear what you think of the c16 pipe once you get it running.

Just a warning the c16 is a really revvy pipe and on a stock 10mm crank they are known to fail with excesive revs over 10k rpm.

Lost an entire 70cc sport cylinder and it also took out the crank, 700$ later I wish I had upgraded the crank to take the abuse.

[proy]

Also have had issues tuning on premix and still supplying oil from the pump. The extra oil causes less actual fuel in the mixture causing a possible lean condition. Pulling the drive gear off the oil pump is fairly easy with a flywheel puller and a good set of snap ring pliers (or a fair deal of patience with picks and normal needle nose pliers).

You can leave the oil pump bolted in to keep the hole plugged if you take the gear off the pump and crank. Drove mine like this for years.

[ghostinyall]

Oldgeek I jumped it up to 100mj today and added more preload to clutch and helped a ton still isn't 100% yet but hit 44mph when before wouldn't get to 15mph before bog. I've heard from alot of people to put the airbox back on and add holes with push in filters I'll have to order a airbox it didn't have any kind of filter on it when I got it

[ghostinyall]

Proy so far the pipe seems good I do plan on doing the crank soon as I've read that it's now basically my weak link. Didn't think about just pulling drive gear off that's now been added to the list for the weekend. I plan on leaving the bottle and using that to carry my oil for premix. Just gonna put a shutoff valve.on bigger size hose for better flow and then carry a small baby bottle like in my trail riding days. Leak proof lids plus has measurement lines on it.
What cranks are popular reliable ones to consider

[oldgeek]

Oct 30, 2024 17:18:23 GMT -5 ghostinyall said:

Oldgeek I jumped it up to 100mj today and added more preload to clutch and helped a ton still isn't 100% yet but hit 44mph when before wouldn't get to 15mph before bog. I've heard from alot of people to put the airbox back on and add holes with push in filters I'll have to order a airbox it didn't have any kind of filter on it when I got it

Just pull the snorkel from the top of the airbox. Don't need no filter buttons, the foam parts just end up in your motor!

[proy]

I just installed a malossi MHR RHQ 12mm crank into my horizontal minarelli eton beamer. Havent put a lot of miles on it but seams extreamly well made compared to the naraku hpc 10mm crank I installed originally.

The main failure with higher rpm builds seams to be the needle bearing at the top of the crank from others experience as well as my own. The 12 mm upgrade also requires at the very least a matching piston with a 12 mm wrist pin and bearing. But for all the effort it would take to source a piston your probubly better off getting a whole top end made for the 12 mm crank.

Does the c16 seam to drag its way up to the power band for you at the moment ? I have a yasuni z on my race cylinder atm and already pull about 50 mph last I hit a speed trap. Been looking at upgrading to the c16 to open up the top of my powerband. Would love to see some rpm numbers once you get a tachometer set up.

[proy]

A note to add when pulling the oil pump gears is that you will still need to remove the oil pump from the block to easily access the snap ring that holds the drive gear onto the pump its self. Once everything is removed you can re install the pump to plug up the hole again. I would also remove the crank side gear as well just to lighten up the rotating assembly.

Also a good time to look and see if you have any oil/fuel pooling or built up under the crank seal. Good sign that its leaking if you find wet oil/fuel behind the stator.

Another mod ive noticed works well is removing the electric start assembly and relying on kick start. The engine revs a lot more snappy with better over all throttle responce. Just be sure to add spacers equal the the elecric start assembly. You can find write ups on here to learn more. I ended up cutting the splined portion of the electric start clutch and turning it into a round washer to keep my variator centered. I can show some photos of what I ended up with for a spacer if you end up going that route.

Also since I didnt notice you mention it have you measured the squish clearance?

[ghostinyall]

Proy so far the pipe seems good I do plan on doing the crank soon as I've read that it's now basically my weak link. Didn't think about just pulling drive gear off that's now been added to the list for the weekend. I plan on leaving the bottle and using that to carry my oil for premix. Just gonna put a shutoff valve.on bigger size hose for better flow and then carry a small baby bottle like in my trail riding days. Leak proof lids plus has measurement lines on it.
What cranks are popular reliable ones to consider

[proy]

Oct 31, 2024 20:30:51 GMT -5 ghostinyall said:

Proy so far the pipe seems good I do plan on doing the crank soon as I've read that it's now basically my weak link. Didn't think about just pulling drive gear off that's now been added to the list for the weekend. I plan on leaving the bottle and using that to carry my oil for premix. Just gonna put a shutoff valve.on bigger size hose for better flow and then carry a small baby bottle like in my trail riding days. Leak proof lids plus has measurement lines on it.
What cranks are popular reliable ones to consider

not sure if its just a glitch on my end but seams like this post is identical to your last