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Post by stepthrutuner on May 9, 2010 16:50:35 GMT -5
I wonder if there is any kind of heat resistant tape I could put on the threads for a semi perminant solution? Aluminum foil? Lead foil? I would try one layer of aluminum foil around the plug threads and use a generous amount of WD40 or grease even on it so it goes in nice. Might work as a temp solution. I would suggest somewhat fine copper wire wound around the plug threads. Worked for me on a friends dirt track car but he had iron heads. I imagine either teflon tape or even hi temp silicon would work too. |
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Post by Fox on May 9, 2010 17:04:54 GMT -5
Yeah that sounds even better because the fine wire will seat in the valleys of the threads. Good idea!  |
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Post by duosport on May 9, 2010 19:48:25 GMT -5
Well when I used the teflon tape there was a noticeable higher pitch to the engine. It reved higher. It took off faster and it climbed a modest hill at 28 mph. The power lasted less than a block for the teflon tape must have burned through. I went back and cleaned it off and put more tape on but it did not really work the second time. The second time the engine was already hot. I think the tape burned instantly.
but it did create a sound in the engine I had not heard yet.
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Post by duosport on May 9, 2010 19:49:53 GMT -5
Aluminum foil? Lead foil? I would try one layer of aluminum foil around the plug threads and use a generous amount of WD40 or grease even on it so it goes in nice. Might work as a temp solution. I would suggest somewhat fine copper wire wound around the plug threads. Worked for me on a friends dirt track car but he had iron heads. I imagine either teflon tape or even hi temp silicon would work too. What if a piece of the wire breaks off and falls into the cylinder? |
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Post by stepthrutuner on May 9, 2010 20:38:54 GMT -5
:riding: Wow, now we have many new and enhanced smileys.  There is a very, very good chance it will be blown out the exhaust port. Probably over 99%. That's why 'spark arrestors are required on trail bikes.  |
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Post by duosport on May 9, 2010 20:52:40 GMT -5
 well copper is pretty soft so... probably not too danderous. That is the very hot part of the cylinder though. Copper has a very low melting point. I wonder if that is an issue?
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Post by 90GTVert on May 9, 2010 21:01:08 GMT -5
It's melting point is low compared to some other metals, but it's still 1981 degrees. Aluminum has a melting point of 1220 degrees.
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Post by stepthrutuner on May 9, 2010 21:04:11 GMT -5
Elements Symbol Melting Point Celsius Melting Point Fahrenheit
Aluminum Al 659 1218
Brass (85 Cu 15 Zn) Cu+Zn 900-940 1652-1724
Bronze (90 Cu 10 Sn) Cu+Sn 850-1000 1562-832
Cast Iron C+Si+Mn+Fe 1260 2300
Carbon C 3600 6512
Chromium Cr 1615 3034
Copper Cu 1083 1981
When I copied and pasted the columns didn't stay lined up. Your head is Al. It melts at around 1218 F. Copper melts at 1981 F.
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Post by duosport on May 9, 2010 21:22:40 GMT -5
wow I did not realize copper was a higher melting point than aluminum. Bronze is much lower than I thought too. Interesting.
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Post by duosport on May 21, 2010 9:26:43 GMT -5
I was out of town for a week and now come back to my low compression F15. It would seem that the spark plug hole in the head is my problem. So I need a new head. I searched for one online in the USA. I have had no luck. I have found one in the UK at SIP Scootershop. It is only 20 dollars cool. They however have a minimum order just over 100 dollars. So I would have to order more. They have a replacement cylinder kit which would bring me past the minimum. For slightly more there is a complete cylinder kit with head: DR 50cc. It is also cast iron. I am mostly interesed in getting the head replaced with an original part. What to do? www.sip-scootershop.com/EN/Products/DR00094/Racing+cylinder+DR+50cc.aspx |
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Post by 90GTVert on May 21, 2010 9:40:23 GMT -5
If you do go with a whole new kit, why not move up to 70cc? Even if they are a few bucks more, they are well worth it for the gains you'll get over the 50cc. I know you said you're on a budget, but you should seriously consider a cheap 70cc if you end up replacing the whole deal.
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Post by duosport on May 21, 2010 9:45:22 GMT -5
If you do go with a whole new kit, why not move up to 70cc? Even if they are a few bucks more, they are well worth it for the gains you'll get over the 50cc. I know you said you're on a budget, but you should seriously consider a cheap 70cc if you end up replacing the whole deal. I hear you but I read a lot of posts on forums and I have some experience on cars. I know that if you increase some preformance parts on an engine you put more strain on other parts and there are certain balances needed for the new part to work correctly. I envision installing the BBK and having to then do more and more. Carb, reeds, manifold. |
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Post by duosport on May 21, 2010 9:48:00 GMT -5
In addition it is my understanding that this scooter will do 50+ stock. I really do not want to go any faster. I think that is inviting trouble as it is not licensed to go anywhere near that speed.
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Post by duosport on May 21, 2010 19:15:01 GMT -5
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Post by duosport on May 21, 2010 19:18:26 GMT -5
I found this 70cc big bore but I think something is wrong here. The price is too low. I think the picture is misleading. I think maybe it is only the cylinder. But again it is Speed Flight. I guess they look the same because there is a lot of all out copying going on. www.swampcyclesmrpstore.com/SPD/cb8600-1--8000055C-1178919569.jsp |
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