I've collected a few parts since I got this thing and they've been sitting around till I could get the inspection and motorcycle test over with. I got these STR8 downhill bars from scootertuning.ca and the bar risers from China via eBay. Altogether, just over $50 w/shipping.
The stock gauges suck. A speedometer that's off and a fuel gauge that works when it wants to. If I'm going to do gauges, I might as well swap to a less bulky looking bar setup. I started out by removing the panels covering the bars, unhooking the connections, and taking the controls off of the stock handlebars as well.
My plan was to use the stock handlebar base/stem as part of a new mount. I thought about buying some tubing to use, but this way would save a little money. I put one of the risers on the new bars so I could get an idea of how high they would sit and where I wanted to cut the stock bars. I decided to leave the stock stem as long as I could. Even with it full length, the new bars would be lower.
I cut the old bars with a hacksaw, then checked the height once more.
Then I cut and ground the brackets off of the stem and measured, marked, and ground it down so the ends were parallel with each other since my initial hacksaw cut was a little slanted.
I planned to use 1/8" steel as the mount for the risers. I had it around. It seemed a bit thin, but I looked at my Keeway Venus that has a similar setup stock and it's plate is only 1/8" thick. The Venus' plate is stamped with some bends for brackets which would make it a bit stronger though. I may have been better off moving up to 3/16", but I figured I'd try this out and if it feels like there's any flex in it I could add another 1/8" plate. UPDATED INFO : The 1/8" plate has been working without issue, but I would still use something slightly thicker if I were doing it again for peace of mind.
I mounted the bars in the risers where I wanted them, and used that to figure out where to cut the steel. I cut it out with a reciprocating saw, rounded the corners quickly on a grinder, and then marked and drilled holes for the riser bolts to go through.
The bolts included with the risers were way too long to work with my 1/8" plate, so I had to cut them down.
I then mounted the risers and marked the plate so I could grind away a bit more of the corners. It was a quick job, but still better than it was IMO.
At that point, I had a stem and a mounting plate worked out, but they were still two separate pieces. I took some time to measure and mark both parts so that I could get the stem centered on the plate and clocked properly so the bars will be straight when the front wheel is straight. Once I thought I had it right, I made a quick little weld so that I could mount the bars and verify that it was all straight before I did any more.
It turned out alright, so I finished joining the stem and base.
Then I painted it and installed it and the bars. I wanted to make sure the bars were sturdy so I put some pressure on them at full lock. I could feel something flexing, but it wasn't the bars or the stem, so it seems O.K. to me.
I started reinstalling the controls. I had to grind out the little nubs inside of them that sit inside of holes in the stock bars.
I picked up these little blue and green LEDs from a Chinese eBay seller for about $10 total and wanted to use them as indicator lights for the high beam and turn signals.
They're pretty tiny so they fit in the lip at the top of the leg shield.
The turn signal indicators are bright and worked out great. The high beam indicator blew as soon as the light came on, so I can't recommend it for AC headlights.
More info : This mod works fine with the stock tube from the stock bars, but if you wanted to do it from scratch, you should just need a suitable tube if your stock bars are the same style as mine. Something with 0.120" or greater wall thickness. Here are the dimensions from my Roketa, but I would advise measuring what you have to be certain.
Tube Length : 4.25"
Tube ID : 15/16"
Tube OD : 1 3/16"
Bolt Hole Center From Bottom Of Tube : 1"