Aftermarket And Naked Stock Handlebar Upgrade Information

[90GTVert]

This thread compiles some methods of switching to aftermarket handlebars or converting to naked stock bars. Browse the thread or click the links below to skip to a particular post.


Naked Stock Handlebar Info
by 90GTVert

Mountain Bike / MX Handlebar Installation
by brandonscoot

Stock Handlebars To DIY Dual Clamp Riser Info
by 90GTVert

[90GTVert]

Naked Stock Handlebar Info


I used an aftermarket throttle assembly for my larger carb, if you don't it will be easier in your case. I used bar end mirrors as well to get rid of the huge stockers. I replaced the turn signals on the handlebars with LED lights on the body.

I removed all the switches and cables and took my stock handlebars off.


I used a grinder to remove the ugly brackets from the stock bars.


I painted the bars flat black and put them back on the scooter.


Then I installed all of my controls. The left hand side is the same setup it was before. The right hand side has the front brake on the inside, then the stock controls, then the new throttle. I just cable tied the wires and cables in place as neatly as I could.








I only got one bar end mirror on for now. Installation of both is simple. The bar end mirrors slide into the end of your bars (as the name implies) and you tighten a bolt to expand the mirror to a tight fit.

The turn signals are simple as well. Pick a location and drill a hole for the stud on the back of the signal to go through. Attach a nut to the rear of the panel. Connect the wires.

I think this will work better than stock mirrors. It is out far enough to the side that I'm not seeing my own arm in half of it.


I got the mirrors and signals at D2Moto. They sell on eBay as well, but you can get better prices buying straight from their store.

I know most people mount these on the side, but I thought this looked kinda cool. It should be easily visible from the front as well as the side with the way the fairing curves.


Pretty bright. My stock flasher is working even with all 4 signals LED now.

[90GTVert]

Mountain Bike / MX Handlebar Installation

Jul 3, 2015 10:10:09 GMT -5 brandonscoot said:

Here is my own version of how to add any type of 7/8" bars you like to a standard Chinese scoot/ ruckus..


This is what you start out with when you take off the stock bars:



Then i cut this 1-1/8 inch tube off of the forks of a bicycle and drilled holes in the side to make it fit the scoot in the same fashion as the originals.



Here is what it looks like with the tube mounted in place. the tube is providing a 1-18" outside diameter so a bmx bicycle stem will fit.



This is about how it looks when its mocked up.



Then you can throw on a bicycle speedo that specifically fits 7/8" bars. I decided to use a Garmin GPS for road bicycles with a custom billet Bontrager brand mount.




(for those of you questioning the "bicycle parts", this is the type of bicycle they come from)





Im more than sure the strength is sufficient...

[90GTVert]

I've collected a few parts since I got this thing and they've been sitting around till I could get the inspection and motorcycle test over with. I got these STR8 downhill bars from scootertuning.ca and the bar risers from China via eBay. Altogether, just over $50 w/shipping.




The stock gauges suck. A speedometer that's off and a fuel gauge that works when it wants to. If I'm going to do gauges, I might as well swap to a less bulky looking bar setup. I started out by removing the panels covering the bars, unhooking the connections, and taking the controls off of the stock handlebars as well.






My plan was to use the stock handlebar base/stem as part of a new mount. I thought about buying some tubing to use, but this way would save a little money. I put one of the risers on the new bars so I could get an idea of how high they would sit and where I wanted to cut the stock bars. I decided to leave the stock stem as long as I could. Even with it full length, the new bars would be lower.



I cut the old bars with a hacksaw, then checked the height once more.





Then I cut and ground the brackets off of the stem and measured, marked, and ground it down so the ends were parallel with each other since my initial hacksaw cut was a little slanted.




I planned to use 1/8" steel as the mount for the risers. I had it around. It seemed a bit thin, but I looked at my Keeway Venus that has a similar setup stock and it's plate is only 1/8" thick. The Venus' plate is stamped with some bends for brackets which would make it a bit stronger though. I may have been better off moving up to 3/16", but I figured I'd try this out and if it feels like there's any flex in it I could add another 1/8" plate. UPDATED INFO : The 1/8" plate has been working without issue, but I would still use something slightly thicker if I were doing it again for peace of mind.

I mounted the bars in the risers where I wanted them, and used that to figure out where to cut the steel. I cut it out with a reciprocating saw, rounded the corners quickly on a grinder, and then marked and drilled holes for the riser bolts to go through.




The bolts included with the risers were way too long to work with my 1/8" plate, so I had to cut them down.




I then mounted the risers and marked the plate so I could grind away a bit more of the corners. It was a quick job, but still better than it was IMO.




At that point, I had a stem and a mounting plate worked out, but they were still two separate pieces. I took some time to measure and mark both parts so that I could get the stem centered on the plate and clocked properly so the bars will be straight when the front wheel is straight. Once I thought I had it right, I made a quick little weld so that I could mount the bars and verify that it was all straight before I did any more.




It turned out alright, so I finished joining the stem and base.




Then I painted it and installed it and the bars. I wanted to make sure the bars were sturdy so I put some pressure on them at full lock. I could feel something flexing, but it wasn't the bars or the stem, so it seems O.K. to me.




I started reinstalling the controls. I had to grind out the little nubs inside of them that sit inside of holes in the stock bars.




I picked up these little blue and green LEDs from a Chinese eBay seller for about $10 total and wanted to use them as indicator lights for the high beam and turn signals.



They're pretty tiny so they fit in the lip at the top of the leg shield.




The turn signal indicators are bright and worked out great. The high beam indicator blew as soon as the light came on, so I can't recommend it for AC headlights.






More info : This mod works fine with the stock tube from the stock bars, but if you wanted to do it from scratch, you should just need a suitable tube if your stock bars are the same style as mine. Something with 0.120" or greater wall thickness. Here are the dimensions from my Roketa, but I would advise measuring what you have to be certain.

Tube Length : 4.25"
Tube ID : 15/16"
Tube OD : 1 3/16"
Bolt Hole Center From Bottom Of Tube : 1"