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Post by pierrel on May 30, 2012 1:27:34 GMT -5
Hi,
My sister has got a Beta Eikon 50cc that I figured I'd use this summer driving 3.5 miles to work instead of getting a car. She haven't really done anything to it, so I figured it would need a general tune-up. I'm thinking on changing the transmission fluid and spark plug. What else is there I should take a look at?
I also need to fix the rear brake, which has no grip at all and the handle is very, very soft.
Also, I don't know what kind of oil she has been using, but I've read that some oils cause excessive buildups. Should I run some seafoam in the fuel tank to clean the system?
I'm new to mopeds/scooters so please tell me what kind of fluid etc I should use. I don't have any user manual for the scooter. I haven't found a write up about this, but please direct me to it if there is one.
Thank you a lot!
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Post by 90GTVert on May 30, 2012 7:20:20 GMT -5
:welcome2: Here's a whole list of maintenance items : 49ccscoot.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=basicstuff&action=display&thread=344The rear brake may only need an adjustment. If you look back by the rear tire, kinda under the CVT cover, you should see a lever with a cable going through it and a nut on the end. Try turning that nut in, screwing it on clockwise, a little at a time and checking your rear brake feel. That's if it's a drum, which is the most common. If it's a disc brake then you'd need to bleed the system and there's a tutorial for that here : 49ccscoot.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=gimmeabrake&action=display&thread=376I prefer synthetic 2T oils. Make sure you choose something rated for injection or pre-mix, whichever you are doing. I use 75W90 synthetic gear oil. You don't have to use synthetics, that's just what I prefer. |
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Post by pierrel on May 30, 2012 9:32:03 GMT -5
Thank you! I'll have a look at that list  The scooter(?) has both front and rear discs. The front works just fine, it's the rear that's not working properly. I'll try bleeding it to see if it helps. I'm also thinking worn calipers... Okey, no need to go with anything fancy then when it comes to engine oil. The engine distributes the oil itself, no need to mix in the fuel tank on this one. Okey, there might be a label on the gearbox which fluid viscosity to use. I'm really trying to get this thing to get great mileage. I figured a tune up would be the first step there. Thanks! Edit : about the rear brake, it's good to have brake fluid in the reservoir right?  Completely dried out (some gunk)... I think I have found the problem, just have to find out why it's empty. Didn't think to check the reservoir before I read your guide even though I've bled brakes on cars before . |
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Post by 90GTVert on May 30, 2012 10:34:23 GMT -5
Once you get fluid in there and bleed it, just check the whole line for any sign of leaks. If you can't find any leaks, could be something like the bleeder got left open or being Chinese there's always the possibility that it never had much fluid.
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Post by reveeen on May 30, 2012 15:26:13 GMT -5
Not to forget a simple compression check.
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Post by pierrel on May 30, 2012 16:19:51 GMT -5
Apparently it haven't been run in the last 10 months. Since its a scooter there is going to be a big tear down to get to the spark plug to put some oil in the cylinder before the first start. I guess I should try to clean the carb as well since it have never been done during its 2100 mile and 6 year something life... Will dig into this tomorrow About the compression check, I don't have the tool required at the moment. |
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Post by pierrel on May 31, 2012 8:49:48 GMT -5
Okey, now I have spent way to much time on bleeding that rear brake... I have used about .1 gallon of brake fluid and there is no improvement. The air keeps bubbling out, but no increased firmness in the handle. I then tore the rear brake caliper apart, cleaned it and then put it back together on the scooter. Tried bleeding it again with no improvement. When I left the lid open on the reservoir once it did bubble a bit from the reservoir but not as much as from the front brake reservoir.
Any thoughts. Could the master cylinder be bad? Should the pistons in the caliper be movable by hand when you remove the pads? These are rock solid, but the front ones sounds like they move...
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Post by ososlow on May 31, 2012 12:29:21 GMT -5
i think i remember someone on here saying they hed to remove the brake handle and push the master cylinders plunger with something else. it was something about the lever hitting the grip before the plunger was pressed all the way in.
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Post by 90GTVert on May 31, 2012 13:49:41 GMT -5
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Post by pierrel on Jun 1, 2012 3:32:03 GMT -5
Still no progress, the handle is just as soft as before even though I've tried you guys methods. The pistons in the calipers seem to have jammed, I've sprayed it with so e WD 40 to see if it eases up. Shouldn't I be able to build pressure even though the pistons are stuck?
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Completely dried out (some gunk)... I think I have found the problem, just have to find out why it's empty. Didn't think to check the reservoir before I read your guide even though I've bled brakes on cars before . 