Triton # 2 (T2) 49cc to 110cc & Nearly Everywhere In Between
Jul 16, 2018 22:09:16 GMT -5
190mech and repherence2 like this
Post by 90GTVert on Jul 16, 2018 22:09:16 GMT -5
I swapped groove sets in the torque driver and it still wasn't right. Too wide of an RPM spread and slow getting to the power unless it is already wound up. It feels like the CVT is always engaged more. I thought a lot of the responsiveness would come back with the small flywheel setup.
Before swapping, I wanted to check timing. I really think the difference in snappiness every time I swap to the NCY ign is related to flywheel mass, but thought I'd see if I could address the timing concerns voiced here. Strapped it down to the bench and removed the variator so the wheel wouldn't spin.
2000RPM timing was set at 22 degrees. Like I said, I had advanced it some already. By the time I started even looking at 3000RPM timing, it was up to 188F and I shut it down. This LC stuff is much more of a PITA for this sort of testing. Prob didn't help that it was hot in the garage.
Figured we already know the curve of the Malossi CDI, so why bother trying to get through lots of cycles of heating and cooling and testing.
I installed the NCY stator and flywheel. As I was installing it, I remembered that I never have been able to get a timing light to work with these stators. Before I put the degree wheel on and dialed it in, I decided to see what the timing light did. I think I must have broken my drill starting it for the stock stator test, because it came apart as soon as I tried to start it this time. Big drill took the nut off. Had to put the CVT back together.
Checking timing light operation saved me a lot of time, because I couldn't get it to register RPM or flash at all. So the NCY stator doesn't like tachs or timing lights. Remember, my direct wired tach reads crazy RPM.
One thing I did notice during the process was that the stock stator without the CVT attached will zing up and down quickly, much like the light flywheel. More to support my claim that flywheel size/weight matters.
I went out to try it with the NCY stator installed and I was surprised to find out how much it still sucked. Still not like it used to be. RPM is not kept in as narrow of a band for acceleration and it doesn't immediately start pulling when I use the throttle. The first vid (LC Tuning 25) is from today with the light flywheel. The second (LC Tuning 23) is how it used to be. The final (21) shows better how responsive it was before. Listen close to the latest and 23 during acceleration. You should be able to clearly hear that the CVT is not doing it's job as well now.
Now
B4
I think if I had 10-20HP more like a race setup, it may pull through well. May operate different with higher rev setups in general. Just don't think the MHR pulley likes the rest of my combo.
I did swap to a slightly softer contra spring that is also longer when working with it yesterday, so I suppose it could have affected the operation. I'll try going back to the old one, but I'm not optimistic.
I'm terribly disappointed ATM. After all of the crap with this scooter, I finally got it where I wanted it I think. I don't think it will have cooling issues and it was running great. I was very happy with it. Well, that lasted less than 30 miles and my rear pulley came apart and now it's junk again because I thought the latest greatest pulley was a wonderful idea. A replacement steel rear pulley is $195 and I don't want to pay that for a pulley. Other than the contra spring, there's not a lot left. I thought briefly that I could put the steel TD on this fixed half... then remembered that this has no recess to accommodate the steel TD.
I did part off and make what I could out of the material left from my spacer. You can see in the pic how they look after parting. They're all between 0.85 and 1.05mm. 4 there, so if someone wants one then speak up and I can send one for free if you provide an address to send to. You will have to deal with the cleanup after parting though (grinder, dremel, file, sandpaper). hellish100 : If you're thinking you want one, now would be the time.
Before swapping, I wanted to check timing. I really think the difference in snappiness every time I swap to the NCY ign is related to flywheel mass, but thought I'd see if I could address the timing concerns voiced here. Strapped it down to the bench and removed the variator so the wheel wouldn't spin.
2000RPM timing was set at 22 degrees. Like I said, I had advanced it some already. By the time I started even looking at 3000RPM timing, it was up to 188F and I shut it down. This LC stuff is much more of a PITA for this sort of testing. Prob didn't help that it was hot in the garage.
Figured we already know the curve of the Malossi CDI, so why bother trying to get through lots of cycles of heating and cooling and testing.
I installed the NCY stator and flywheel. As I was installing it, I remembered that I never have been able to get a timing light to work with these stators. Before I put the degree wheel on and dialed it in, I decided to see what the timing light did. I think I must have broken my drill starting it for the stock stator test, because it came apart as soon as I tried to start it this time. Big drill took the nut off. Had to put the CVT back together.
Checking timing light operation saved me a lot of time, because I couldn't get it to register RPM or flash at all. So the NCY stator doesn't like tachs or timing lights. Remember, my direct wired tach reads crazy RPM.
One thing I did notice during the process was that the stock stator without the CVT attached will zing up and down quickly, much like the light flywheel. More to support my claim that flywheel size/weight matters.
I went out to try it with the NCY stator installed and I was surprised to find out how much it still sucked. Still not like it used to be. RPM is not kept in as narrow of a band for acceleration and it doesn't immediately start pulling when I use the throttle. The first vid (LC Tuning 25) is from today with the light flywheel. The second (LC Tuning 23) is how it used to be. The final (21) shows better how responsive it was before. Listen close to the latest and 23 during acceleration. You should be able to clearly hear that the CVT is not doing it's job as well now.
Now
B4
I think if I had 10-20HP more like a race setup, it may pull through well. May operate different with higher rev setups in general. Just don't think the MHR pulley likes the rest of my combo.
I did swap to a slightly softer contra spring that is also longer when working with it yesterday, so I suppose it could have affected the operation. I'll try going back to the old one, but I'm not optimistic.
I'm terribly disappointed ATM. After all of the crap with this scooter, I finally got it where I wanted it I think. I don't think it will have cooling issues and it was running great. I was very happy with it. Well, that lasted less than 30 miles and my rear pulley came apart and now it's junk again because I thought the latest greatest pulley was a wonderful idea. A replacement steel rear pulley is $195 and I don't want to pay that for a pulley. Other than the contra spring, there's not a lot left. I thought briefly that I could put the steel TD on this fixed half... then remembered that this has no recess to accommodate the steel TD.
I did part off and make what I could out of the material left from my spacer. You can see in the pic how they look after parting. They're all between 0.85 and 1.05mm. 4 there, so if someone wants one then speak up and I can send one for free if you provide an address to send to. You will have to deal with the cleanup after parting though (grinder, dremel, file, sandpaper). hellish100 : If you're thinking you want one, now would be the time.
